the final - glauco. x Formosa Lady

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Now I need is to learn how to remove the reflection from these shiners!

If your camera will accept filters, a polarizing lense will do the trick.

Regards,
Rick

The reflection on the pouch drives me crazy. I tried a polarizer once but didn't have any success. Though I didn't experiment much. With a polarizer you are meant to use them when the light comes in from the side. And you rotate the filter to get the desired effect. Is that what you are doing when photographing Paphs?

David
 
multi or sequential?

Nice one Rose. Normally I think sequentials are a complete waste of time in hybridising, but that one is not too bad. David

Very nice. Super long petals but much nicer than the straight sanderianum-hybrids!
Well done, Rose. Cheers, Carsten

I wasn't sure if I should start a different thread, I've been thinking on this one & am curious as to others thoughts .....
so here goes ....
Is this a multi? or a seqential? or both? Where does one draw the line at the difference between multi or sequential? (Formosa Lady is sand x Susan Booth). The individual flowers opened at a slower pace than my straight multis but the temps are 60-63 in my house so I would think that has some bearing. How many seqentials would have 3 flowers opened at the same time? There are no new buds forming, so this will be it for flowers on this blooming.
 
I wasn't sure if I should start a different thread, I've been thinking on this one & am curious as to others thoughts .....
so here goes ....
Is this a multi? or a seqential? or both? Where does one draw the line at the difference between multi or sequential? (Formosa Lady is sand x Susan Booth). The individual flowers opened at a slower pace than my straight multis but the temps are 60-63 in my house so I would think that has some bearing. How many seqentials would have 3 flowers opened at the same time? There are no new buds forming, so this will be it for flowers on this blooming.

Well I think it is both. To me a sequential is just a type of multi. None of my sequentials have ever had 3 flowers open at once. They may have 2 flowers open at once but that is for a very short time (a day or 2).

Some of those sequential species can have an incredible number of flowers on a spike (as many as 15) yet when you cross them with a normal multi they don't tend to have many flowers. Three isn't bad to me. My parishii x glaucophyllum has never had more than two. Given the flower count of both species you would think you could get 8 or more.

David
 
Hard to say where, exactly, this hybrid falls. Ours have held the flowers all together pretty long, so I'd say it leans more toward the Coryopedilum tendencies. These are first bloom seedlings and have had 2-3 flowers per spike. Once they mature, they could have more and could become more successive.

Just to split hairs, I consider the Cochlopetalums "successive", the Pardalopetalums "sequential", the Coryopedilums are the "true multiflorals". But, hey, to make sure everyone's on the same page, they have those fancy names we can use (Cochlo, Pardalo, and Coryo...). TK schooled me on this once, and I totally agree with the reasoning...

Cochlopetalums open one after the other, BUT usually there is one (or very few open) at any given time. One king has to die before he is succeeded (unless there is a leadership war or something), right? From dictionary.com: To come next in time or succession; follow after another; replace another in an office or a position.

Pardalopetalums, like lowii and friends, open sequentially somewhat gradually, and they all stay open together. From dictionary.com: Forming or characterized by a sequence, as of units or musical notes. Notes on sheet music don't disappear once played. :) (of course you might find sequential and successive listed as synonyms in some places, so don't ream me out over this).

Coryopedilum multiflorals, like roths et al, get big fat buds, then they open from the bottom up, but relatively fast and hang out together for a while.

Just my silly 2 cents FWIW.

-Ernie
 
Hard to say where, exactly, this hybrid falls. Ours have held the flowers all together pretty long, so I'd say it leans more toward the Coryopedilum tendencies. These are first bloom seedlings and have had 2-3 flowers per spike. Once they mature, they could have more and could become more successive.

....... TK schooled me on this once, and I totally agree with the reasoning .....

Just my silly 2 cents FWIW. -Ernie

I'm thrilled by how it's turned out for a first blooming & wondered 'can this get better?' It will be interesting to see what happens on the next blooming.
When I was reading your explanation, I'm thinking who's TK? :crazy: Why does that sound familar? :crazy: As I'm reading, Tom Kalina's picture was in my head the whole time! :rollhappy::rollhappy::rollhappy: It's totally Tom!
 
The reflection on the pouch drives me crazy. I tried a polarizer once but didn't have any success. Though I didn't experiment much. With a polarizer you are meant to use them when the light comes in from the side. And you rotate the filter to get the desired effect. Is that what you are doing when photographing Paphs?

David
Polarizing filters only work when the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection. Otherwise, another option is to us some kind of diffusion material over the light source. (Like sheers over a window).
 
I'm thrilled by how it's turned out for a first blooming & wondered 'can this get better?' It will be interesting to see what happens on the next blooming.
When I was reading your explanation, I'm thinking who's TK? :crazy: Why does that sound familar? :crazy: As I'm reading, Tom Kalina's picture was in my head the whole time! :rollhappy::rollhappy::rollhappy: It's totally Tom!

Yep.

-Ernie
 
Polarizing filters only work when the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection.

Can you explain that in practical terms?

I notice in your wonderful photos of the 2 charlesworthii that there is a slight reflection on the pouch and petals. That is the sort of thing I get. I'm probably being very pedantic. I'll bet most people don't even notice it.

I find its a big problem with some of the purple coloured Paphs such as lowii, hookerae and appletonium. The reflection results in a real washed out affect in the purple regions.

I'm just trying to work out the best way of avoiding reflections off the flower. I might experiment more with my polarizer.

David
 
Reflections are very hard to control. Professional photographers often "tent" their subject to control or eliminate reflections -- you'll see the effect in good photos of silverware, jewelry, glassware -- even automobiles.

My sunroom, where I do my photography, has light coming from 3 sides plus the windows in the middle are quite high. If I have to photograph when there is a lot of glare, I hold a 3' x 3' diffusion screen between the offending window and the flower. Usually, I don't bother -- I just avoid photographing on sunny days. Not difficult in cloudy Michigan! So I often have some glare on the flowers. I don't mind a little, if it isn't too strong. Highlights help give dimension to a form, as do subtle shadows.

Regarding the polarizing filter: Suppose the light is bouncing off the flower at a 30º angle toward your lens. If the light causing the reflection is coming in at a 30º angle to the reflective surface, your polarizer will work. If any different angle is involved, it won't work. So 45º/45º will work, but 45º/30º won't. Many professional photographers use a polarizing filter over their artificial light source(s), taking care that the lens position is at the same angle as the lights.

Hope that helps.
 
Reflections are very hard to control. Professional photographers often "tent" their subject to control or eliminate reflections -- you'll see the effect in good photos of silverware, jewelry, glassware -- even automobiles.

My sunroom, where I do my photography, has light coming from 3 sides plus the windows in the middle are quite high. If I have to photograph when there is a lot of glare, I hold a 3' x 3' diffusion screen between the offending window and the flower. Usually, I don't bother -- I just avoid photographing on sunny days. Not difficult in cloudy Michigan! So I often have some glare on the flowers. I don't mind a little, if it isn't too strong. Highlights help give dimension to a form, as do subtle shadows.

Regarding the polarizing filter: Suppose the light is bouncing off the flower at a 30º angle toward your lens. If the light causing the reflection is coming in at a 30º angle to the reflective surface, your polarizer will work. If any different angle is involved, it won't work. So 45º/45º will work, but 45º/30º won't. Many professional photographers use a polarizing filter over their artificial light source(s), taking care that the lens position is at the same angle as the lights.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Dot

Seems like it would be easier with artificial light as you can control the reflections more. But then I prefer natural light.

David
 

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