Nutrient deficiency?

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I don't see that the color in these two plants is much different. Consider that Mutant's picture color is off white balance towards too much yellow.


Most in-situ pictures are taken of the best specimens rather than sickly looking plants. And most orchids growing in the wild are growing in near ideal light levels and not fried under T5 lighting. If the wild plants were not in ideal light they probably would die off as seedlings.

She also got the plants on different times and not all at the same time. Let's say if she doesnt correct this now. That particular plant of hers could became more paler as time goes by.

Regarding the T5. I dont think that a plant that grows under T5HO bulb gets a higher light intensity than a plant growing in a cliff exposed to the sun. I actually grow my plants particularly the multiflorals under 4 x 4' of T5HO bulbs.

No disagreement with this idea. But you can not trust making color evaluations from photos taken in different color light spectrums.
Mutant's photos color balance are not correct and they present the foliage more yellow than in reality.

I understand you concern about the color balance. However she stated herself that its actually a pale yellow. I think we should trust her judgement on that as she probably knows what color yellow is. And even her photo shows that the discrepancy regarding color balance isnt that much.

Am I correct that her other plants are not showing the same symptoms?

She have stated on other threads (My collection) that her paphs are pale at the moment and feeling depress. I am assuming most if not all her paphs are having this issue. Correct me if I'm wrong mutant.
 
Ok

I was looking into why plants may not effectively utilize nitrate.

The same ratio of nitrate to ammonical N in K lite is the same as for the old MSU (which seemingly supplied enough N in the past for some). The most significant exceptions seem to be when pH is run up, and buffering content (calcium carbonate and bicarbonate is high).

Apparently the nitrate reductase system (which depends on Fe and Mo to catalyze the reduction of nitrate) uses phosphate and/or sulfate. Both of which were reduced in K lite.

In particular phosphate is also bound up by calcium carbonate. Given the lime treatment used on Orchiata, and other buffering potential by high TDS waters and calcareous supplements, the likelihood of stalling out the nitrate reductase system in the plant is increased under low phosphate and sulfate availability.

Adding epsom salt will increase both Mg and SO4. If you can find some Mg-Phosphate could be even better. There's already more than enough Ca in this system, so I wouldn't go to bone meal. Iron phosphate (main ingredient in slug bait) could also be liberating.


Keep in mind that green in plants is due to presence of chlorophyll. It doesn't work (and make green) without Mg. A chlorophyll molecule is mostly carbon and hydrogen with 4 molecules of N and 1 of Mg.

Given that less than 1% of a plant is made up of NPK Ca Mg..... it doesn't take much to serve the plant. But we are doing lots of things with our chemical environment to impede the plants ability to take up these nutrients.
I can get my hands on magnesium phosphate (apparently it's used as a nutrient supplement for humans). Should I try this then instead of epsom salts?

Did they all have good roots when you got them?

[...]

What caused the plants to loose roots? If the plants had good rots a yer ago and you fertilized them constantly with K-lite the roots were not lost due to a mineral deficiency.

You should suspect the old media as a possible cause for the problem.
Of the ones I know and remember, they had okay to decent root systems. The 'Oriental Red' x 'MM' had a good root system, the 'Jim Krull' x 'CC' didn't. The acclaimed roth 'MM' x self had a doable root system.

Why they lost roots? Probably a combination of the first two plants traveling here bare rooted from America, plus an inexperienced new Paph owner. I repotted all roths except 'Starship', since two of them were bare rooted, and the other one was from Popow, whom, I have experienced, usually over pot the Paphs.

I've never said that they've lost any roots due to mineral deficiency.

I don't see that the color in these two plants is much different. Consider that Mutant's picture color is off white balance towards too much yellow.

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Most in-situ pictures are taken of the best specimens rather than sickly looking plants. And most orchids growing in the wild are growing in near ideal light levels and not fried under T5 lighting. If the wild plants were not in ideal light they probably would die off as seedlings.

No disagreement with this idea. But you can not trust making color evaluations from photos taken in different color light spectrums.
Mutant's photos color balance are not correct and they present the foliage more yellow than in reality.

Not reducing Potassium in the fertilizer. I'm suggesting that it had accumulated in the media and was available to the plants in excess. The plants tissue may have been already loaded with high levels of K when she got them.

Rather than looking at the leaf color to make the diagnosis I would look at the overall plant health and specifically root condition. Bright light combined with poor roots will produce plants like these.

Am I correct that her other plants are not showing the same symptoms?
I don't know how my picture looks like on your screen, but on mine, it's very close to how the colour appears IRL. This roth was much darker than the others when I got it, I think I might even have mentioned that it had such a dark green compared to the ones I had then. It has paled considerably, and stripes have started to appear on the lower leaves.

You can't say that it's an issue of colour balance in the photos, when I, the owner of said plants, say that they have paled and turned more yellow/brighter green compared to when I got them. The photos got me to realize that something was off, since they have lost the colour gradually and I hadn't realized how much paler they had gotten.

And if I compare my 'Oriental Red' x 'MM' to egshells sibling, mine is much much paler.

I don't say it's not a light issue, as I've said, I did keep the T5 too close to the plants, but I think there's more than that to it. :(

Some of my other plants are showing the same symptoms, some don't seem to care at all.

During the winter, many of them lost leaves, which I think I might have mentioned in some thread somewhere. And I thought it could be because I fed them too much fertilizer. Because of this, I flushed the pots for about a month, and the problem reduced. Now, many of them started to show the same signs, and I thought it could have to do with the media being too old, so I've repotted almost all of them (only two left). Some of the plants showing the symptoms, didn't have good root systems, some though did have good root systems, so it seems to depend on what species they are. My malipoense had terrific roots, but are also showing signs of this, whatever it is.

My Phals are also showing symptoms of some sort of lacking. I reacted that almost none of them started making any new leaves now during spring, so I started giving them some 5-5-5 fert, and they started producing leaves. They are not pale, but they don't show the same growth pattern they used to do. They, on the other hand, have massive root systems, and they flower. It's just the leaf production that seems to have decreased.

She also got the plants on different times and not all at the same time. Let's say if she doesnt correct this now. That particular plant of hers could became more paler as time goes by.

Regarding the T5. I dont think that a plant that grows under T5HO bulb gets a higher light intensity than a plant growing in a cliff exposed to the sun. I actually grow my plants particularly the multiflorals under 4 x 4' of T5HO bulbs.

I understand you concern about the color balance. However she stated herself that its actually a pale yellow. I think we should trust her judgement on that as she probably knows what color yellow is. And even her photo shows that the discrepancy regarding color balance isnt that much.

She have stated on other threads (My collection) that her paphs are pale at the moment and feeling depress. I am assuming most if not all her paphs are having this issue. Correct me if I'm wrong mutant.
Yes, the seedling roth I've had for the longest is 'Starship', the second is the acclaimed 'MM' x self.

I had my T5 too close to the plants, which was why my 'Jim Krull' x 'CC' got badly burnt. I didn't realize this until it got burnt, and someone pointed out that my MK also showed signs of too much light on the leaves closest to the T5. I raised the T5 about a month ago. But since the plants also have grown paler overall, this isn't the only issue I think.

Yes, please do. :) They (the multis except the gardineri) are all paler than before.

Yes, some other show the same signs as these guys do, but I think the roths are the ones the most afflicted. But that could have to do with them needing more nutrition, right?
 
More or different nutrition?

Roths come from areas notoriously poor in NPK and obviously grow great in the wild when not impacted by humans.

All my phals are just now kicking in with new leaves including one that I have indoors on a windowsill. That one gets fed a fraction of what the GH plants get too, and its doing better now than in the last 10 years I've had it.

I don't think your phals are having problems (nutrition related or otherwise).

If you want to try the Mg Phosphate figure up a dose of 2-3 ppm as Mg and give it a shot.
 
Interesting thread. I see differing opinions, mine is too close to your light source. If my plants were too close to the light source we would all be in trouble, I grow outside, so that would mean the earth is falling into the sun!
:sob:
 
Sorry to be so late to the party, but it just looks like too much light to me.

Before adding this and changing that, I would repot and then put them in a low light situation. If they don't recover, then I'd go on a nutrient deficiency quest. If they return to normal, give them less light.

You can test Ph with strips from an aquarium store. Not as accurate as a meter, but a lot less expensive and good enough.

Rather than a TDS meter, get a Ec meter. Much better way to measure fertilizer concentration.
 
Rather than a TDS meter, get a Ec meter. Much better way to measure fertilizer concentration.

I agree. A TDS meter is really an Ec meter anyway. It just takes the Ec reading and converts it (via internally programed algorithm) into a TDS value.

That algorithm only works for a specific combination of cations and anions. So you will get different TDS values for different ionic (fertilizer) mixtures of the same overall concentration.

It's fine if you want to "calibrate" your particular fert to a given concentration, but the "TDS" values of your tap water or pour through waters may have little correlation to what you are feeding with.


2 grams per liter of NaCl and Na2SO4 have different conductivity values. So even though they are both 2000mg/L TDS, a TDS meter will say they are different.
 
The green leaf veins and pale leaves suggest magnesium deficiency to me.



If they are getting klite they are recieving more than enough Mg. Mg deficiency show up in the older leaves first. This is much more like an N problem possibly coupled with low suphur (not much in klite)
A lack of either or both of these is seen as general paleness.

Actually with K lite or MSU they would be getting more than enough of everything and these "deficiencies" keep happening anyway.

Molybdenum deficiency also shows up as "nitrogen deficiency" , but Mo is in both formulations with the Mg (and Fe for that matter, and Fe and Mo are responsible for reducing nitrate to ammonia).

Much of what I used to see in my plants would have been classified as Ca deficiency, but MSU has plenty of Ca. And I used to add all manor of calcareous pot amendments.

Since everything is fed to excess nothing should be "deficient", until you consider antagonistic and blocking effects (which your own reference was quite convincing to me on that matter).

Speaking of deficiencies, chlorophyll is only 1% Mg and 3%N, but 96% hydrated carbon compound.

So why do we never consider carbon and water shortage? That really goes back to basics of temp, light, humidity and water uptake via roots.

In order to "make green" you have to make chlorophyll. So how do you know the plant is not overdosed on minerals and not uptaking enough water and CO2 to make the other 96% of the green molecule?
 
Molybdenum deficiency also shows up as "nitrogen deficiency" , but Mo is in both formulations with the Mg (and Fe for that matter, and Fe and Mo are responsible for reducing nitrate to ammonia).
Apparently a Mo deficiency is caused more by unavailability caused by acid media than by too little being applied so perhaps a pH check of the media or water should be the first port of call. Fe on the other hand is readily available at low pH.







In order to "make green" you have to make chlorophyll. So how do you know the plant is not overdosed on minerals and not uptaking enough water and CO2 to make the other 96% of the green molecule?
Because that is never the cause of chlorosis (that I know of)
 
Because that is never the cause of chlorosis (that I know of)

The basic symptomology was basically described for outdoor crops.

These symptoms are really expressing for indoor under lights conditions in many cases. I'm beginning to wonder if there is something special about T5 spectra and water/fert uptake.

Mutant has been plagued with low humidity conditions all winter. Some of her early turnarounds were in enforced high humidity conditions in a tank.
 
As I've said, I've raised the T5 so the light intensity has been reduced, and as I've also said, they've all been repotted recently, and I don't want to disturb them any more than necessary.

I'm waiting for a conductivity/pH meter and that's what I'll go for now that I've finally found one for a reasonable price. I don't want to try and find another meter since it isn't so straight forward as it might seem.

I'm grateful for all of the advice I've gotten and I'll try some of the things suggested. It's not only those under the T5 that are showing these symptoms, so it's not only a light issue.

The humidity levels are between 50-70%, all depending on the weather. I'm a windowsill grower, so the conditions won't be ideal. I have two humidifiers on 24/7 and they're preventing the humidity levels to plummet.
 
Been doing some interesting reading on photosynthesis and inhibitions to photosynthesis.

For one, alkalinity (bicarbonate) is inhibitory to photosynthesis in more than one pathway. One pathway causes a restriction on the uptake of CO2 and another causes direct impediments in ATP production.

Also the synthesis of chlorophyl is a light requiring process that does not appear to use the same primary light frequencies as used by chlorophyll A or B. And this process also requires expending ATP.


Adding ammonia to the system is not neccesarily adding any N directly to the plant, but causing a reduction of alkalinity (pH) in the potting mix as bacteria convert it to nitrate, that not only directly produces CO2 but also converts bicarbonate in the potting mix to CO2.

Acidifying via phosphoric acid would drop bicarbonate, but also supply more phosphate for ATP production. A lot of phosphate "energy currency (ATP)" is expended for photosynthetic opperations when alkalinity is elevated and CO2 is restricted.
 
One of the things about growing under lights that i found out the hard way ..for seedlings, they have a hard time adjusting to going from a GH envt to an art light envt. They really dont need much light..and its real easy to overburden them with the constant daily light from day start to day end. Adults can take the change much easier and in a lot of cases , seem to enjoy it. My monsoon temptations flourished under lights but are having a much harder time in the GH (but i live in seattle where i get no light for 3 months ..i dont think they appreciate any kind of dormancy)..i am thinking abou putting them back under lights in the fall.
I think Tom Kalina told me that paph seedlings do best with 150 to 200 fc for a 12 hour period. If i remember correctly thats about 18 inches from a 4 x2 t5 assembly. Another thing..multi's need consistency (esp roths) , everytime there is a significant change , they suffer for it and from my experience, it's cumulative.

I knew a grower in Oregon (Bill Leonard) who was a phenomenal grower..every time he got a new plant he would quarantine it in the shadiest part of his greenhouse. He grew everything really well.

I grew everything under lights for several years..although leaves turned lighter green to yellow green as I grew them..they always seemed to bloom and grow well. I killed things off but within reason. Roots always seemed fine. I think my biggest mistake was growing paph multi's in CHC..but thats another story.
I am thinking about putting my multifloral seedlings back under lights in the fall..just so i can monitor them and keep their conditions more stable.I know this sounds like i am contradicting myself but with our lack of light for 3 months , i think it does them more harm to stay in the GH. But this time I will keep them at a much lower light level.
 
150-200fc? That's tiny amount of light. I'm assuming this is for tiny seedlings right after deflasking (like within 3 months)? How strong was the light when you were seeing yellowing leaves under light? I have to do 100% artificial light, but I'm giving 800-1000fc (6500K T5 HO), 14h at least. I wonder if I'm wasting lots of energy. In the summer, I do need to reduce the light to mitigate heat issue, but they seem to be ok except for a couple species (but I don't have as much experience as you do). Tall P. lowii does get yellowish leaves when the leaves go close to T5 HO. P. hirsutissimum get a bit stressed in the summer, so I moved it under LED. Others seem to have healthy looking slightly yellow leaves. I haven't flowered multifloral under this setup, though. Those Blue-Red LED grow lights seem to make the new leaves really greenish. This is probably caused by not enough light, but it could be something to do with the frequency spectrum. Low-light orchids do seem to grow surprisingly well, and flower well under 28W LED covering 2x2'.

Is constant light really a burden? I would expect the opposite. I can see that long, strong light could be a burden for CAM (since photorespiration could overwhelm at the end of the day). But a long optimal strength light would be great for C3 plants (given that there is enough water). I would speculate that most plants under cultivation are PS-limited than nutrient-limited in many cases. Could the transition shock which you observe be from the change in humidity rather than light?
 
150-200fc? In the summer, I do need to reduce the light to mitigate heat issue, but they seem to be ok except for a couple species (but I don't have as much experience as you do). Tall P. lowii does get yellowish leaves when the leaves go close to T5 HO. P. hirsutissimum get a bit stressed in the summer, so I moved it under LED.

Besides pH optimization for nutrients there are also optimum temperatures, and P utilization tends to favor temps lower than N and K.

Mike (Stone) presented on of those pH range charts. At least one fert company that has that chart also has the temp chart on their site.

I recently read an article speculating about why plants aren't black instead of green, and wasting a huge band of spectrum. One reason could be because they would cook if they were black??

Anyone consider the heat issue (besides the lumens issue)?. Most roths and sanderianums come from substantial elevation, and may not experience high leaf temperatures.
 
150-200fc? That's tiny amount of light. I'm assuming this is for tiny seedlings right after deflasking (like within 3 months)? How strong was the light when you were seeing yellowing leaves under light? I have to do 100% artificial light, but I'm giving 800-1000fc (6500K T5 HO), 14h at least. I wonder if I'm wasting lots of energy. In the summer, I do need to reduce the light to mitigate heat issue, but they seem to be ok except for a couple species (but I don't have as much experience as you do). Tall P. lowii does get yellowish leaves when the leaves go close to T5 HO. P. hirsutissimum get a bit stressed in the summer, so I moved it under LED. Others seem to have healthy looking slightly yellow leaves. I haven't flowered multifloral under this setup, though. Those Blue-Red LED grow lights seem to make the new leaves really greenish. This is probably caused by not enough light, but it could be something to do with the frequency spectrum. Low-light orchids do seem to grow surprisingly well, and flower well under 28W LED covering 2x2'.

Is constant light really a burden? I would expect the opposite. I can see that long, strong light could be a burden for CAM (since photorespiration could overwhelm at the end of the day). But a long optimal strength light would be great for C3 plants (given that there is enough water). I would speculate that most plants under cultivation are PS-limited than nutrient-limited in many cases. Could the transition shock which you observe be from the change in humidity rather than light?

humidity didnt change..as far as the rest..my point is..giving plants high constant FC's when you are not sure about their nutritional, or water requirements is too risky... its better to err on the side of caution and grow your seedlings slowly meaning low light, unless you have it all figured out.

In growing my adult plants, much of my problem was CHC..so perhaps it was not enough water, perhaps the roots couldnt properly uptake needed nutrients, who knows...i dont use CHC anymore..and plants are doing better
 
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