Cattleya Overgrowth Option

[skirincich]

Hello,

A couple of months ago, I learned about some great presentations on the Odom's Orchids YouTube page. Keith Davis had some interesting observations and tips about cattleyas in his three videos. He discussed dealing with an overgrown cattleya by attaching a smaller pot filled with media to the side of the larger pot which contains the plant. I am considering dividing my plant next year, but I think his technique gives the emerging growth the best shot of thriving if repotting is not an option. If it is not clear, the smaller attached pot provides a home for the emerging roots of the overhanging new growth. Of course, another option would be to drop the pot into a larger pot and fill in the gap with media.

I have also attached a photo from earlier in the year. Enjoy!

Steve

 

[Ozpaph]

its an unruly solution.
Why not just wait for the new roots to emerge and repot? You'll have to eventually (unless you make a 'pot train')

 

[Katahdin]

This is done so that the division can establish a nice root system before being disconnected from the mother plant. It makes sense in environments that are hot and very drying. Some other expert growers on youtube such as Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis do this as well.

 

[Ozpaph]

I suppose that works if you have space and only a few plants

 

[David B]

I think this technique is past it's time. Attaching a second pot for a growth to grow into puts the new growth root system at risk, and is inherently unstable. You have to wait for the new growth to have at least 3 pseudobulbs before dividing it off. My approach is that as a plant rhizome is nearing the pot edge and you know the new growth will be out of the pot, you cut the rhizome back bulbs the prior season and put a dated plant tag in the cut. The back bulbs will either regenerate or not but at least you tried. Now as the front lead starts the new growth and just as new roots are emerging, you divide the plant and repot, removing old dead roots and planting the oldest bulb against the back of the pot giving the new lead room for at least 2/3 seasons growth. This is the best time as new root growth will re-establish the plant securely. Note some cattleyas are reluctant bloomers after being repotted so it may take two new growths before re-flowering. Dividing and repotting gives the opportunity to clean the plant and repot in fresh media. Also some cattleyas can get so large they are bursting out of 30 cm. pots and become difficult to handle.

 

[southernbelle]

This is done so that the division can establish a nice root system before being disconnected from the mother plant. It makes sense in environments that are hot and very drying. Some other expert growers on youtube such as Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis do this as well.

Keith Davis does it. I’ve never had great success with it. He does it with moss in the baby pot and my roots never look great in the moss pot.

 

[David B]

Keith Davis does it. I’ve never had great success with it. He does it with moss in the baby pot and my roots never look great in the moss pot.

So on you're response I said well who is Keith Davis. So I looked him up and totally enjoyed his web site. I feel we are of like mind as I favor cattleya of classic stance color and form but love the direction of some breeders who are creating compact cattleya with good form and outstanding color. I have driven past him many many times on my way to Hilton Head S.C. Perhaps sometime I will meet him.

 

[southernbelle]

So on your response I said well who is Keith Davis. So I looked him up and totally enjoyed his web site. I feel we are of like mind as I favor cattleya of classic stance color and form but love the direction of some breeders who are creating compact cattleya with good form and outstanding color. I have driven past him many many times on my way to Hilton Head S.C. Perhaps sometime I will meet him.

David, sorry, I should have clarified. Since you are on the East Coast, if you are a member of an Orchid Society, he is an excellent speaker and gives several great presentations. He has spoken at the VA Orchid Society in Richmond a couple of times and it’s been very informative. I grow about 75% (mostly large flowered) cattleyas, 15% Paphs and 10% Phrags. About 100 plants total under lights (LEDs indoors).
Deborah

 

[southernbelle]

“I think this technique is past its time. Attaching a second pot for a growth to grow into puts the new growth root system at risk, and is inherently unstable. You have to wait for the new growth to have at least 3 pseudobulbs before dividing it off. My approach is that as a plant rhizome is nearing the pot edge and you know the new growth will be out of the pot, you cut the rhizome back bulbs the prior season and put a dated plant tag in the cut. The back bulbs will either regenerate or not but at least you tried. Now as the front lead starts the new growth and just as new roots are emerging, you divide the plant and repot, removing old dead roots and planting the oldest bulb against the back of the pot giving the new lead room for at least 2/3
seasons growth. This is the best time as new root growth will re-establish the plant securely. Note some cattleyas are reluctant bloomers after being repotted so it may take two new growths before re-flowering. Dividing and repotting gives the opportunity to clean the plant and repot in fresh media. Also some cattleyas can get so large they are bursting out of 30 cm. pots and become difficult to handle.”

This is interesting! I seem to be fortunate and usually have multiple (2-3 sometimes even 4) leads on most plants, so I just divide. Problem is I had 3 surgeries (two hips and ruptured biceps’ tendon) over the period of a year and that really set back my repotting as I was unable when the new roots showed and now it’s too late. I’m still okaying catch up over a year later, so I have several growing out of the pot. Ugh!!

 

[tomp]

Keith Davis does it. I’ve never had great success with it. He does it with moss in the baby pot and my roots never look great in the moss pot.

I do the pot over sometimes as well and I don’t like my catts in moss either so I just use a bark mix in the adjacent pot and that works fine. I either allow it to grow
fully into the second pot or divide later in which case the roots are acclimated.

 

[southernbelle]

So on you're response I said well who is Keith Davis. So I looked him up and totally enjoyed his web site. I feel we are of like mind as I favor cattleya of classic stance color and form but love the direction of some breeders who are creating compact cattleya with good form and outstanding color. I have driven past him many many times on my way to Hilton Head S.C. Perhaps sometime I will meet him.

Really nice guy. I’m sure he’d be cordial. He’s a southerner and loves orchid friends. He’s been very encouraging and helpful to me and I’m just a peon. He was at UNC in horticulture and really knows the science of things. I really have enjoyed his talks and have learned a lot from him personally. At a meeting he really liked a C. Newberry Else Hall I brought for the bench show table. He said it was AM quality, the best Else Hall he’s seen and I should name it and get it judged. So now it’s C. Else Hall ‘Southern Belle’. So far no luck, but my blooms with it have not been great since, due to repotting/dividing, thrips, etc. but I did give him a division if it so we’ve kept in touch. He doesn’t grow Paphs, though.