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I think anceps onto E mag would be a step backwards in this case. Anceps already is already very cold tolerant and seems to be the gold standard for pretty 'yard orchids' in extreme conditions (heat, cold, drought...).

Have some anceps and intermedia hybrids we will 'plant out' soon...

It would be a step back maybe for L. anceps, but a step forward for E. magnoliea, don't you think? If you want small, clumping orchids with brightly coloured flowers, look for some of the E. magnoliae hybrids. The F1 hybrids with pics on OrchidWiz look pretty nice! Some of them, anyway.

Looking forward to pics of the anceps and intermedia hybrids!!:clap:
 
Yeah, love the Phaius! Is it planted right in the ground? Did it survive the winter, or is it new?

The Phaius is in a 3 gallon nursery can on the front porch at the moment. Got it a couple months ago in spike. Once it's done blooming, will put it in the ground (either directly or will sink the pot) and will try to propagate it from the inflorescences (sort of like dendrobe canes, lying flat on moist sand). I guess you might consider Phaius tender perennials here. Will cover it on nights at/below freezing.
 
Love the Nepenthes too! Do you know what kind?

They both came unlabeled, but I think the bushy, smaller one is either alata or ventricosa and the bigger one might be Miranda??? Will post some pix of the pitchers once some more mature. Have a small starter plant of sanguinea too.
 
It would be a step back maybe for L. anceps, but a step forward for E. magnoliea, don't you think? If you want small, clumping orchids with brightly coloured flowers, look for some of the E. magnoliae hybrids. The F1 hybrids with pics on OrchidWiz look pretty nice! Some of them, anyway.

Looking forward to pics of the anceps and intermedia hybrids!!:clap:[/QUOTE

Will check them out...
 
Definitely look at the Calanthe species that are native to Japan and more northerly parts of China. Calanthe arisanensis from China seems like it will survive some frost (left it out one year by accident) I winter it in the cold storage space I use for Satsuki azalea and other sub-tropical bonsai.

The Japanese species and hybrids might make a great addition, but plant in part shade to avoid the afternoon heat a little. Should naturalize well.
Calanthe discolor, sieboldii, nipponica, tricarinata and their hybrids might be a good start. C. triplicata grows in karst derived soils, Florida coral limestone might work well. Worth trying but possibly tender would be Calanthe sylvatica (also as masuca). Tom - Kyushu has experience with these, maybe he will weigh in.

Another worth exploring would be Calanthe calanthiodes (aka mexicana) native to some elevation in Mexico. Should tolerate heat well, and some freezing.

Cymbidium goeringii, these are found in both Japan, China and Korea, should be hardy almost to Memphis as far as winter is concerned, summer heat might be a problem, plant in shade or some morning sun only.

That hybrid from Windsong, originally made by Leon G (former Hoosiers O.) Stenosarcos Vanguard, might be a good terrestrial. The Florida native Stennorhyncha species might work, nice red flowers. Also consider growing Platanthera blephiglottis (white) or cilliata (bright orange) all are hardy much farther north. Spiranthes is a group that domesticates well. There are many native Florida terrestrials that are showy whose native range does include Orlando area. Check books and articles by Roger Brown, or Sheviak or even Luer's Native Orchids of Florida. These could really become permaculture, right through the 100 year frosts.

You are going to run out of room in your yard. :evil:
 
Calanthe discolor survived a few years in my yard, and my Cymbidium goeringii just survived its 2nd winter, here in NYC, Z7.
 
Hey Ernie,

Well, I had lived in Florida for many years before coming to southern Japan, and both places are suitable for growing orchids outside, even epiphytic ones. My suggestions for epiphytes would include:

Dendrobium, moniliforme, nobile, loddgesii, kingianum, and any of their hybrids. Most of the deciduous caning species should be OK as well if sited well.

Neofinetia falcata and most of its hybrids

Sedirea japonica

Gastrochilus japonicus

Cymbidiums - especially the Jenosa section and honestly any of the large hybrids if grown in slightly elevated beds of pumice and the like.

Leptotes unicolor, bicolor

Pleurothalis sonderana

Neolauchea pulchella

Isabela virginalis

Sophronitis acuensis

Maxillaria varibilis

Coelogyne cristata

Vanda coerulea

Encyclia tampensis and its hybrids

Cyrtopodium punctatum, and any others from the grasslands of Brazil would be worth a shot (if you can find them!)

Harrisella porrecta - these may even be found near you in orange groves. The hard part is finding them - they are tiny.

Epidendrum magnoliae - worth a try, but getting one to establish is another thing. They are surprisingly difficult to get going.

The trick is to find species that can withstand the heat of Florida's summer and not melt in the occasional frost. If you can keep crystalline frost from forming on their leaves, then you can try even more things. The only problem is that below 25-27 F damage will start happening fast with many. Winter deciduous species and terete leaf species hold more promise. Virtually any of the native ones in mainland Japan could have a shot, but most of those are pretty tiny and would be hard to source in the US.

Terrestrials are a pain in the bupkis. Bletilla striata and Spathoglottis plicata are usually no brainers. If you can find Phaius flavus (AKA P. minor), you'll find it to be one of the more cold tolerant species. Of the Calanthe, I would try the deciduous bulb forming ones from SE Asia. Japan's species except those of the southern islands (sylvatica, triplicata) are too temperate for your climate I think. If you can source some, the south Florida native Bletia purpurata may do well in a sandy bed. Bog species that are pretty easy include Calopogon tuberosus and Plantenthera species native to the southeast.

Beyond that, I highly recommend trying some epiphytic ferns, especially Platycerium bifurcatum (very easy and cold hardy even here) as well as P. superbum (stunning, a bit less cold resistant, but still a good bet for you). I'd also get a hold of Asplenium antiquum, the most cold hardy of the large growing birdnest ferns. The hard part will be finding true A. antiquum since most plants on the market are A. australasicum. Another great genus is Pyrrosia with lingua being the most common, though you can no doubt source hastata if you search for it. If you can get hold of the green penny fern, Lemmaphyllum microphyllum, it too is a great little epiphyte. All of the above mentioned plants are cold hardy down to 27 C and even lower if the freeze is not long in duration.

Don't even get me started on tree ferns...
 
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Hi Ernie

I planted a friends garden in Australia with orchids. A lot of species are hardier than you think. His garden got the rare light frost, but not often. However, temps at night could fall to 0 celcius during the coldest winter months, but days would warm to close to 20c.

THe plants I put in are still thre and growing.

Oncidium spathulatum - full sun
Dendrobium nobile - full sun
Seidenfadenia mitrata - bright light under a palm
Dendrobium thyrsiflorum - bright light under a palm
Laelia anceps - full sun on a palm and tough as an old boot
Stanhopea nigroviolacea on a tree fern.
Dendrobium aphyllum syn. peirardii - bright light under a palm.
Various terete/semi terete vandas.
Spathoglottis
Reed stem Epidendrums (didnt like frosts, but handled inferquent very light ones).
Dendrobium aggregatum, lindleyii, and jenkinsii mounted on rock walls in very bright light to full sun.
Schomburkia brysoniana (?) - bright light under a palm
Various Coelogyne species under shade in a protected area along the house wall.
Phaius tankervillae under shade in a protected area along the house wall

Your idea about the habenaria sounds nice, but I think the SE Asian ones you will have to be careful with as some like carnea dont like the cold.

Brett
 

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