Paph. tigrinum 'Dana'

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Rick, your treefern mix sounds perfect for the air requirements. If tigrinum often grows epiphytically, then it stands to reason that it likes things a bit more acid. Not a lot of limestone up in the trees!

Erythrone,.....well, let's see how well I grow it now! If it continues to do really well, 2 or 3 good years growing should get it back up to dividing size.
 
That is an excellent tigrinum! I don't ever see these for sale at shows. If I do I will remember the loose mix made the difference for you. Thanks for the tip.

Mine are doing great in basket culture too. But I would say the big difference was going low K.

Loose mix could also mean poor fert retention (as a benefit to reduce over exposure to K).
 
Not a lot of limestone up in the trees!

The geology in the area is volcanic, so not a lot of limestone on the ground either.

Recently dug up a paper on soil conditions in tropical serpentine forests. Even though serpentine (rock) has a high pH, the soil pH on Mt Kinabalu was acidic anyway. The combination of high rainfall flushing rates and vegetative overlay more than compensated for any alkalinity from the underlying rock. So we probably shouldn't assume that underlying geology always has significant impact on the pH in the rhyzosphere.
 
Rick, your treefern mix sounds perfect for the air requirements. If tigrinum often grows epiphytically, then it stands to reason that it likes things a bit more acid. Not a lot of limestone up in the trees!

Erythrone,.....well, let's see how well I grow it now! If it continues to do really well, 2 or 3 good years growing should get it back up to dividing size.

:drool::drool::drool:
 
The geology in the area is volcanic, so not a lot of limestone on the ground either.

Recently dug up a paper on soil conditions in tropical serpentine forests. Even though serpentine (rock) has a high pH, the soil pH on Mt Kinabalu was acidic anyway. The combination of high rainfall flushing rates and vegetative overlay more than compensated for any alkalinity from the underlying rock. So we probably shouldn't assume that underlying geology always has significant impact on the pH in the rhyzosphere.

Agree totally! We should always start with an acid mix and slowly adjust up if needed. I got a new pH meter the other day and checked the pour through of several pots. They all came up at about 7.5 so I obviously over applied the lime but they are growing well nevertheless. Next time I will use 1/2 or 1/4 the amount or maybe none as it turns out my mains water is over 7 too!
 
Mine are doing great in basket culture too. But I would say the big difference was going low K.

Loose mix could also mean poor fert retention (as a benefit to reduce over exposure to K).

I also have one in a basket that is doing very well. I hang it up where it dries out quickly and it seems to enjoy this position.
 
Agree totally! We should always start with an acid mix and slowly adjust up if needed. I got a new pH meter the other day and checked the pour through of several pots. They all came up at about 7.5 so I obviously over applied the lime but they are growing well nevertheless. Next time I will use 1/2 or 1/4 the amount or maybe none as it turns out my mains water is over 7 too!

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29337

I don't know if you ever caught the above thread John (you were gone so long:() but when using the Cichlid sand it was shocking how little it took to support pH in a pure sphagnum moss substrate.

What is the alkalinity and pH of your makeup water? If you have a very open mix, then pour through results may still be 99% the same as your irrigation water.

Naoki sent me a very interesting paper showing various effects to substrate pH by plants and fert. Moss and bark (by themselves) had very little effect on pH. Adding a plant and fertilizing it (using a fert with substantial ammonia) cratered the pH. The effects were reduced for media that were less water retentive.
 
Rick, I water in the summer with water from a nearby stream with varying makeup depending on how much rain we've had lately. I mist with R.O. water. In the winter, I use R.O. water exclusively. R.O. water pH is about 5.5, if I remember correctly.
 
John, what and how do you feed your plants? Also how do I make my photos look like yours? It's always a delight seeing your photos!!
 
I feed with Plant Prod 24-14-14 and 7-11-27. I alternate every 2 or 3 feedings. During the times of year that I'm not using water from the stream, I also add Calcium Nitrate. I add Epsom Salts during the summer months to keep the plants green. When I feed (about once a week in summer...once a month in winter), I just spray the plants heavily with a weak fertilzer solution (about 1/4 strength....equivalent to 1 ml per litre), not necessarily trying to get any into the pots. Of course, plenty does trickle down into the root zone anyway and aerial roots get a good dose of feed.

Thanks for the compliment on my photos. I have a crappy little camera. It's a Nikon Coolpix 2200 dinosaur @ just 2.2 megapixels. I use black velvet as background. Only shoot with natural light, never use a flash. and always take lots of photos of each angle that I want. That is to say: If I want a flower photo, face on....and a whole plant shot......that's just 2 photos that I want; but, I'll take 7 photos of each. I start with the exposure setting at the darkest setting = -2.0, then I'll take another at -1.7, and then at -1.3, -1.0, -0.7, -0.3 and lastly at 0. Depending on the subject and the light available, I'll also take one at +0.3 and +0.7 and +1.0, etc. One of them will be at the best exposure to show off the flower nicely. After that, I resize the photo, usually to about 50%, so it fits on our computer screens without having to scroll to see the whole thing (I hate that!) and I usually need to sharpen it a little bit. I'm very careful to not oversharpen, which is easy to do; but, it makes the photo look grainy. I also don't take photos with lots of wasted space around the subject, because by the time I crop out the extra and enlarge the subject, the photo loses quality. If I get right up to the subject and make it fill the frame, there is less cropping to do and that means less enlarging of the subject. This helps to get the detail I want without losing image quality in the editing process.
 
Thank you so much for the feeding AND photo tips!

It's nice to see you back here. Can't wait to see more parvi photos!!
 
John: this tigrinum is HIGH QUALITY!!!

Congrats. Your patience has been rewarded. :clap:

Let´s see how it evolves in the new mix. Keep us informed, please.
 
Gorgeous plant! Great job growing it. I have a couple of tigrinums and neither are doing well. I think I'll try a courser mix like you suggest. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks everyone. I wonder whatever happened to all those tigrinums pictured on Antec Lab's website? With so many excellent quality plants to breed with, the market should be knee deep in great tigrinums by now. Does anybody know what happened to Antec? What happened to their collection? Where are all those great plants now?

I have often wondered about this as well. The store on their site (ladyslipper.com) says they're taking off until September 5th 2005. I'm betting they're gone for good. I won a few ebay auctions from them. I remember their plants were incredibly neatly packaged. I would love to hear more details about what's going on with them.
 
Gorgeous plant! Great job growing it. I have a couple of tigrinums and neither are doing well. I think I'll try a courser mix like you suggest. Thanks for the tip.



I have often wondered about this as well. The store on their site (ladyslipper.com) says they're taking off until September 5th 2005. I'm betting they're gone for good. I won a few ebay auctions from them. I remember their plants were incredibly neatly packaged. I would love to hear more details about what's going on with them.

They were into horses
http://www.fhana.com/classifieds/details.php?unid=3421
 

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