More bulbos with the new camera

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The top photo I think looks sharpest at the center but lesser so at the sides.

The background seems in better focus away from the center in the higher ISO shots.

If I'm not imagining then that would help with the lens I'm using that produces great focus to the center of the flower, but falls apart pretty quickly as you get away from the focal center.

the background is in better focus in higher iso because of higher depth of field created by a higher aperture that is needed to compensate for the increased light...not a function of high iso ( i was shooting really close )

the point of this is to show pixelation , there is none in the higher ISO..this is a feature of a high end CMOS that is used in the 6D , I dont know how well your CMOS is in your camera, maybe push 2000?...therefore, you can shoot further away ..have your depth of field intact, without going past the limits of your lens ,and just magnify the pic without any pixelation
 
With regard to the sharpness, you are also seeing the effect of diffraction, Rick. For the high ISO, Ed had to use high aperture. The edge sharpness is usually lower than the center (in most lens) when it is used wide open, and it become sharper if you stop down the aperture by 1-2 stops. However, if you close down the aperture too much, sharpness of the entire frame degrades due to diffraction. It is a compromise between several counteracting factors, but for macro, I usually try to use below f11 or 16.
 
With regard to the sharpness, you are also seeing the effect of diffraction, Rick. For the high ISO, Ed had to use high aperture. The edge sharpness is usually lower than the center (in most lens) when it is used wide open, and it become sharper if you stop down the aperture by 1-2 stops. However, if you close down the aperture too much, sharpness of the entire frame degrades due to diffraction. It is a compromise between several counteracting factors, but for macro, I usually try to use below f11 or 16.

to be fair..this is all about the center..this image was cropped (about 20 percent of the image retained from the center) and magnified ...you cant get any information about diffraction due to lens issues from this image but yeah..i have noticed problems with macro going beyond F11 even with macro lenses
 
Using a 6D is 'cheating' (I have one, too). Its a very high end camera and you'd expect the high ISO shots to be acceptable. Point and shoots mostly have significant image degradation above ISO 800. But you point is valid and worth considering - increasing the ISO to raise the shutter speed and reduce blur is certainly OK for most web photos. Just keep the f-stop high to keep the depth of field.
 
Using a 6D is 'cheating' (I have one, too). Its a very high end camera and you'd expect the high ISO shots to be acceptable. Point and shoots mostly have significant image degradation above ISO 800. But you point is valid and worth considering - increasing the ISO to raise the shutter speed and reduce blur is certainly OK for most web photos. Just keep the f-stop high to keep the depth of field.

is a 1000D a point and shoot? i dont think so
 
is a 1000D a point and shoot? i dont think so

It is a higher end ''Point and shoot'' that gives more freedom over certain features in Manual mode, but not rally your typical pocket ''point n shoot''.
 
is a 1000D a point and shoot? i dont think so

I thought the conversation was about a 6D, or rather image degradation with increasing ISO. I made no comment about the 1000D or any other specific camera.
I was just pointing out that high ISO shots with 'lesser spec' cameras cant reproduce 6D image quality (or other full frame semi-pro cameras).

The suggestion that manually adjusting f-stop, ISO and shutter speed can achieve improved images(for web) over shooting in 'auto' mode is a good idea.
 
OK, now I'd like to see that series of shots taken in very low light.

define very low light (where everything is ambient yellow?).. the light was fairly low for those shots...like ozpaph implied, the 6D was specifically designed for low light situations ( it even beats out the mark 3). I photograph low light events without a flash and need a camera with a high end CMOS and I have never had any issue in the 6000 range ( but I dont blow up pictures to poster size) ..if you want to see how well it does, research it yourself ..there is plenty of proof on the internet
 
Back
Top