K-Lite Trial Observations

[Stone]

IMO plants potted in chc will never show a K deficiency even if 0% is added for 2 years. Plants in bark will probably be ok for a year by which time they are close to repotting which will introduce a fresh source of K.
I can only really see a potential for true deficiency if your growing in 100% perlite or some such??

 

[cnycharles]

maybe semi-hydro with inert media, or maybe plants mounted on material that doesn't break down much

 

[abax]

I'm repotting some Paphs. into Orchiata and am wondering if anyone uses it straight or do you amend with sponge rock, sphag., whatever. I'd like the new mix to do well
combined with the K-Lite fertilizer. My plants seem to be
lovin' K-Lite after the panic over old leaf drop. That's stopped and I have far more blooms on two Iwans. than I've ever had before. Two Paphs. putting out new growth
like crazy that were pretty much stuck until the K-Lite.

 

[cnycharles]

I use it like bark, and always use chunky perlite and charcoal. I add grodan rockwool cubes, and use that with wet phals and with paphs and phrags now. I also use some aragonite sand and with calcicolus paphs/phrags etc I use some crushed coral. For smaller paphs and seedlings I use the smaller version and larger for large phals in bigger pots

 

[keithrs]

I use Power with hydroton and chopped spag. Can be use straight with no problems also.

 

[SlipperFan]

I use orchiata with either diatomite or clay pellets and sponge rock. So far, Paphs seem to be doing well in it.

 

[Eric Muehlbauer]

While Ray and others have said to use it straight (which I have tried for a few), I still mix the bark with spongerock and charcoal like I always do, with some sphagnum mixed in for phrags and delanatii. While its a great medium, my favorite so far for paphs, I also still repot yearly. I don't trust any medium to last too long...especially after I found "long lasting" CHC breaking down as fast as bark.

 

[Rick]

I can only really see a potential for true deficiency if your growing in 100% perlite or some such??

Then keep track of what happens with the semi hydro growers.

 

[abax]

I feel reassured now. I always use a bit of charcoal and
hydroton/sponge rock to keep the mix open in unglazed
clay orchid pots. Those growers who are less heavy-handed with watering can use it straight and in plastic
pots.

 

[Ray]

While Ray and others have said to use it straight (which I have tried for a few), I still mix the bark with spongerock and charcoal like I always do, with some sphagnum mixed in for phrags and delanatii. While its a great medium, my favorite so far for paphs, I also still repot yearly. I don't trust any medium to last too long...especially after I found "long lasting" CHC breaking down as fast as bark.

I don't think breaking-down is an issue for Orchiata for a VERY long time, and even with "ordinary" bark and CHC, I think mineral buildup - or "K-gain" as we probably ought to think of it - and plant waste accumulation, is more of a concern, and is the primary reason for repotting.

However, if we truly buy into the (Ca+Mg)/K being the important factor, K-gain should be less of an issue in Orchiata, as it is treated with dolomite solutions, artificially tilting the balance toward the Ca+Mg, allowing more time before the K gets to a significantly-proportional level.

That is not to say that the ever-increasing EC isn't an issue...

 

[keithrs]

So, I think I was checking the pH with my additives added or my pen was out of calibration.... I'll have to wait intel the weekend before I can check with additives. I'll keep you posted.

I made a batch of fertilizer this morning and tested the pH of the final stock before and after adding seaweed, fulvic acid.

Before - 5.91
After - 4.48

I added some tap to bring the final pH to 6.3.

I would be curious what others find there pH to be after adding additive in....

 

[keithrs]

I don't think breaking-down is an issue for Orchiata for a VERY long time, and even with "ordinary" bark and CHC, I think mineral buildup - or "K-gain" as we probably ought to think of it - and plant waste accumulation, is more of a concern, and is the primary reason for repotting.

However, if we truly buy into the (Ca+Mg)/K being the important factor, K-gain should be less of an issue in Orchiata, as it is treated with dolomite solutions, artificially tilting the balance toward the Ca+Mg, allowing more time before the K gets to a significantly-proportional level.

That is not to say that the ever-increasing EC isn't an issue...

I'm adding Hygrozyme twice a month to see if it helps with the plant waste accumulation. I think it will be some time to see if it works.

 

[cnycharles]

Though my plants are not in their normal growing area at the moment since I haven't put them together since moving, I have used the k-lite at the rate ray recommended, and for plants not stressed by moving too much, many that are putting out new leaves, have a very nice, shiny healthy look to them. I haven't seen leaves that happy-looking in a long time. I know this isn't a scientific observation, but I'm sticking with it

 

[Ray]

Just got in more K-Lite.

Folks wanting 2# jars or 25# bags, please order them directly from the online store.

Those of you who want 2# bags for international shipping via a USPS Small Flat Rate Box, or those of you that want other volumes bagged, please contact me via email, NOT private message.

 

[billc]

I started with the K-lite back in January and with the onset of spring and the new leaves coming out I've seen a distinct greening on the new growth. I also took Rick's advice and started cutting my rain water with about 10% tap water in between feedings. I'm currently feeding at 60-70PPM and think things are going pretty good.

Bill