Yellow Spots And Drooping, Dying Paph Collection

Discussion in 'Problems, Pests, & Diseases' started by orchidbri, Jan 16, 2015.

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

  1. Jan 17, 2015 #21
    aha... my checklist so far is:

    Phyton 27 and cinnamon
    Cut infected parts and buds off plants
    Turn on humidifier, maintain +/- 50% humidity
    Slide plant pots into larger plastic pots, to better retain moisture around roots
    Consider using RO rather than municipal, potentially fertilizer and root stimulate
    Keep cinnamon off roots
     
  2. Jan 17, 2015 #22

    The Mutant

    The Mutant

    The Mutant

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2012
    Messages:
    1,947
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sweden
    And cover up the roots. :)

    Btw, I also move all my plants away from the windows during night. It seems to help with the condensation mine get inside the pots.

    I would not use any fertilizer, not even with RO-water, but possibly a root stimulate until they've started growing some roots.

    Good luck! :D
     
  3. Jan 17, 2015 #23

    Justin

    Justin

    Justin

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    Messages:
    5,836
    Likes Received:
    21
    Location:
    Columbus Ohio
    dont put the pots themselves in larger pots...repot the plants with a finer grade mix or add moss.to retain moisture and cover up all the roots. for removing infected parts be sure to flame or bleach sterilize your tool in between cuts. dont use fertilizer for.now...just water those plants :)
     
  4. Jan 17, 2015 #24

    Secundino

    Secundino

    Secundino

    Adorable Stud

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2012
    Messages:
    2,315
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Spain
    Oh my...
    Keep in mind whatever you do, it should mate with your watering regime and the humidity you want to ( or can) give your plants.
    One example: bigger pots do retain more humidity, naturally. But a sick plant generally does not have lots of healthy roots that can absorbe that humidity, so, if only one or two roots sit in a big pot, they will be too 'wet'.

    37% rel. humidity is desert. Even 50% are - in my perspective - not enough. During winter, I prefer to have the substrate on the dry side and the humidity high (70% and more without wetting the leaves).
    In my opinion, plants without a functioning root system, should not be fertilized, nor soaked. They can not take that water and the risk of losing the roots that are left due to high salt content in the water is high.
    Clean the leaves gently. Dry plants mostly have a mite-problem too. With a cotton pad, slightly wettened with some water and soap, you will get rid of most of them (if there are); it also helps to rehydrate the leaves without wettening the whole plant. If they have been as dry as they look, there won't be rots, but: a weakened plant that suddenly gets much more water, can easily rot! And that is the problem: you must rehydrate the plants without giving them to much water. A challenge...
     
  5. Jan 17, 2015 #25

    PaphMadMan

    PaphMadMan

    PaphMadMan

    phytomanic

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2008
    Messages:
    2,037
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Madison, Wisconsin USA
    Unlike some others, I'm not convinced you have an ongoing fungal problem. I think your weakened plants would have been overcome long ago if there were, but a precautionary treatment won't hurt. Better water and humidity management is definitely needed, and you have plenty of advice on that.

    Like at least one other, I would advocate repotting now, better media, better pots. Let your plants recover in the right conditions rather than a temporary fix.

    If your pH question got answered I missed it. pH is pH. Any accurate test will work equally well on any water - municipal, aquarium, with or without fertilizer - within the intended pH range, with 2 exceptions...

    A strongly colored solution (some concentrated fertilizers) can interfere with a color change pH test, and...

    A pH test on highly purified water, including very good RO water, can be misleading. If you are certain of the water quality with very low total dissolved solids, a pH test is pointless in that case. It will either be unstable, or misleadingly low due to dissolved carbon dioxide in water with no buffering capacity. Whatever you add to the water, or the potting mix it goes into, will determine the final pH no matter what the apparent pH of pure water.
     
  6. Jan 17, 2015 #26

    gonewild

    gonewild

    gonewild

    Grower

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2006
    Messages:
    5,142
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Puerto Maldonado, Peru
    I agree I see more of a dehydration problem than fungal. I would not cut off any green leaf tissue., The plants need all they have now.
     
  7. Jan 17, 2015 #27

    reivilos

    reivilos

    reivilos

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2012
    Messages:
    528
    Likes Received:
    0
    Honestly, if I were you I'd send everything to the dustbin. Start over and try not make the same mistake(s) twice:
    * overpotted
    * underwatered
    * mix is too coarse for indoor growing
    * I guess would have low humidity also

    As an indoor grower, my advice to you would be to grow in a more compact space so as to have higher humidity around the plants.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Jan 17, 2015 #28
    I agree with most people above, but I don't think you need to toss them. Definitely repot-better pots/better mix. All of the orchid suppliers sell Paph. blends. You will need to maintain humidity between 50% and 70%. This is especially hard to do in Winter. I use cool mist vaporizers. I agree with not fertilizing for awhile but I think something like Super Thrive might help. Rain water and RO are best but in a pinch you can pick-up gallons of distilled (not filtered or spring) water at any grocery store.
     
  9. Jan 17, 2015 #29

    TyroneGenade

    TyroneGenade

    TyroneGenade

    mad scientist

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Messages:
    2,213
    Likes Received:
    10
    Location:
    Johnson City, TN
    My home humidity is 28%. Not good. I cope by standing the plants in large plastic tubs with high sides. (About 1-2 inches above the pot height.) I keep the plants standing over gravel that is standing in water. This keeps the humidity up---enough to actually grow and flower the plants. I also grow in hydroton/LECA that avoid issues with over/under watering as the substrate is always wet. This also helps maintain humidity. I don't suggest tossing your plants and starting over from scratch. The advice you have got here is really good and should be able to get you to the point where the plants start to grow. Once you have the growing issues solved, then go bananas and buy more plants.
     
  10. Jan 18, 2015 #30

    PaphMadMan

    PaphMadMan

    PaphMadMan

    phytomanic

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2008
    Messages:
    2,037
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Madison, Wisconsin USA
    I completely agree on the usefulness of plastic tubs, and not just for humidity enhancement. I don't know what I would do without them.
     
  11. Jan 18, 2015 #31
    The mixture the plants are in is a paph-specific blend from repotme.com, here if you want to see: http://repotme.com/orchid-potting-mix/Orchid-Mix-Paph.html
    It consists of Orchiata, lava rock, sponge rock, and hydroton. If I end up repotting, I will mix it with my standard unfertilized orchid mix of fir bark, charcoal, and sponge rock. It was more alike what the plants originally came to me in.

    TyroneGenade, I believe humidity trays to be virtually useless there is some height to them. I use leftover 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 gallon tanks for this purpose. I had siblings with excessive freshwater fish hobbies haha. If I cannot use a tank, I put a large plastic bag over the smallest ones, then place that plant on a humidity tray.

    Thanks again guys!
     
  12. Jan 18, 2015 #32

    Justin

    Justin

    Justin

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    Messages:
    5,836
    Likes Received:
    21
    Location:
    Columbus Ohio
    also suggest doing a web search to see if there is an orchid society in your area. check out a meeting and get some hands-on advice from people who have successfully grown in your neck of the woods.
     
  13. Jan 18, 2015 #33

    PaphMadMan

    PaphMadMan

    PaphMadMan

    phytomanic

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2008
    Messages:
    2,037
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Madison, Wisconsin USA
    Perhaps you did not understand. TyroneGenade was not talking about "humidity trays'. He mentioned plastic tubs at least as large and deep as the largest tank sizes you cite. If you don't have siblings with excess tanks to donate, plastic storage tubs are a much more economical alternative.
     
  14. Jan 18, 2015 #34

    Paphman910

    Paphman910

    Paphman910

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2006
    Messages:
    1,917
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Victoria, BC
    You may have to water your plants every other day with that mix of yours. Does not retain moisture for a few days and your roots will probably stop growing.

    The base of the plant should be about 1 cm below the level of the mix. I would add about 20% moss to the mix so keeps moist for longer period.

    Do not have fan blowing directly on the plants, otherwise they dry out too fast.

    Not sure what kind of light you are using. Better make sure mid day sun is not heating up the leaves. If leaf feels warm then the sunlight is too strong and you will need shading.
     
  15. Jan 18, 2015 #35

    Secundino

    Secundino

    Secundino

    Adorable Stud

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2012
    Messages:
    2,315
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Spain
    That's fun, isn't it.:rollhappy::rollhappy:
     
  16. Jan 18, 2015 #36

    NYEric

    NYEric

    NYEric

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Messages:
    47,124
    Likes Received:
    78
    Location:
    New York City Apartment
    Sterilite trays from Walmart.
     
  17. Jan 18, 2015 #37

    NYEric

    NYEric

    NYEric

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Messages:
    47,124
    Likes Received:
    78
    Location:
    New York City Apartment
    True but... Where does the water fall after watering..?? :eek:
     
  18. Jan 18, 2015 #38
    Great thread!! Thanks Orchidbri for all the questions. I have learned a lot.
     
  19. Jan 19, 2015 #39

    The Mutant

    The Mutant

    The Mutant

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2012
    Messages:
    1,947
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sweden
    About humidity trays and their worthlessness. I had to go and investigate since I have almost all my Paphs standing on trays with leca pellets and water (I have humidifiers too, but anything to help increasing the humidity directly around the plants) and I don't really think an increase of 6-7% of humidity is nothing to sneeze at. It's not amazing but it's something at least. :)
     
  20. Jan 19, 2015 #40

    NYEric

    NYEric

    NYEric

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Messages:
    47,124
    Likes Received:
    78
    Location:
    New York City Apartment
    Um... more water!?
    Yes, humidity trays are good only for keeping water off the floor.
     

Share This Page

arrow_white