What is this?

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Daniel Herrera

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
239
Reaction score
3
Location
Central Coast California
Some of my paphs have a problem where the leaves get orange spots. There are also some small insects that I think are some sort of larvae. They are too small for my camera to capture them though, but I can leave some pictures of the damage in one of my paphs. Do you know what is this? How can I treat it?

http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0484_zpsa24497a5.jpg.html
http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0483_zps0d30b71f.jpg.html
http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0482_zpsd4f45e84.jpg.html
http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0485_zps8a07f361.jpg.html
 
I used to do mine twice, about 10 - 14 days apart. Orthene is toxic so make sure you don't apply it indoors, plus wear protective clothing, mask, glasses etc. I took my plants out into the yard, treated them, let them dry and then put them back indoors. The only time I used Orthene was for thrips. They are almost impossible to get rid of otherwise.

I believe there are other systemics that may not be as toxic as Orthene....maybe someone here can chime in. (as in Rob's post above)
 
Spinosad should work fantastically!
Its a big new player in flea treatments and has shown no resistance.
I'll be following this thread.
Crappy thing being in Canada and not having access to pesticides when you need.

Sent from my BlackBerry Bold 9900 using Tapatalk
 
The first thing I would do is to repot the plant, carefully getting rid of all the old media. I would then dip it in a solution of Physan 20 for about half an hour. The plant looks to me as if it is rotting from the bottom up. The surface damage may be incidental. First find out what the roots look like!
 
Conserve (spinosad) has been used a lot for thrip and in some places they are becoming resistant. It may still work fine in some areas. If you use the high rate and plaster the whole plant it will be more effective

Try sucrashield from ray; it eats through the sides of the bug and isn't a poison. Just have to make sure you don't get it in your eyes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Are we sure it's thrips? I have had the same problem and after looking VERY closely many times I have never seen anything moving.
 
A little more explanation, please?

It works for me. Goal was to get something vertebrate friendly, and all of those things are (in theory) quite safe. I sell a lot of plants to frog people, so can't use a lot of things.

Distance - an insect growth regulator, can't remember which class, but it has translaminar activity (it is a systemic, in other words). Enstar II would probably work, but I like systemics. It might only be available in large quantities, but you could come pick some up, Dot.

Azamax - active ingredient the same as in neem. I don't know if it is synthetic or purified. Neem oil has a long history of being less than consistently effective, so the standardized formula is more reliable. Azidarachtin is an anti-feedant and has a few other modes of action, I'm not sure anybody knows all of the things it does yet.

Spinosad is the active 'ingredient' in a beneficial bacterium - I buy it as 'Dr. Doom's Deadbug Brew', which is an evocative name. Worked well for me. I've heard it works on molluscs too, but I can't say that it ever has had that effect for me.

Anyway, if I did my research right, three different (maybe more) modes of action, so resistance should be minimal. Doesn't mean it can't happen... In my hands it did absolutely no damage to plants, I sprayed it on flowers and buds and everything in the barn, not a spot or blemish. The usual three times, a week apart.
 
Back
Top