Urea fertilizer - outstanding results

[paphioboy]

Polyantha,

Using the smallest pots possible will also encourage root growth.

I think the reason is that the media dries faster and more aeration. However, to get paphs to grow vigorously, I think the root growth must not be limited. They should be free to roam, as Xavier has stated previously in his articles.

 

[Rick]

I think the reason is that the media dries faster and more aeration. However, to get paphs to grow vigorously, I think the root growth must not be limited. They should be free to roam, as Xavier has stated previously in his articles.

And certainly in the past with higher feeding rates, small pots drain much faster and retain much less NPK in the mix.

In general the situation with a small crowded pot is closer to the mounted condition with very short contact times from feed water.

 

[paphioboy]

Another reason for what I said is that the roots of wild barbata-section paphs (examples which I have seen are barbatum, callosum, dayanum, javanicum) are often quite large, with many long roots that grow horizontally, rather than the measly root systems often associated with plants in culture..

 

[ALToronto]

So why do we not mount paphs? Or has someone tried?

 

[Rick]

So why do we not mount paphs? Or has someone tried?

The basket method is kind of an intermediate version that I've had good results with. I've only heard of a single (henryanum) that was truly mounted and it did good.

Technically SH in inert media is a form of mounting and Ray has good results with that.

I think all the cliff dwellers and epiphytic paphs would do just fine mounted.

 

[eggshells]

I'm experimenting on it. Just to see if possible if they can be mounted under culture. Though I don't see why not, It's presenting some challenges. The biggest challenge is humidity and watering. Perhaps if you have timed misters and air movement. It will be possible.

I'm just experimenting on the miniature ones.

 

[Rick]

I'm experimenting on it. Just to see if possible if they can be mounted under culture. Though I don't see why not, It's presenting some challenges. The biggest challenge is humidity and watering. Perhaps if you have timed misters and air movement. It will be possible.

I'm just experimenting on the miniature ones.

What I tend to see when I open up a basket is roots clinging very well to the wooden frame, but not very well to all the limestone rock. Even though the roots are fully entwined through the rock, the rock is easily removed from the roots.

So I suspect that for a surface mounted paph you may need a very rough surface with lots of cracks and holes to wedge into.

 

[Stone]

So why do we not mount paphs? Or has someone tried?

I tried it and it's not worth the trouble. Too hard to keep them wet enough

 

[Rick]

I tried it and it's not worth the trouble. Too hard to keep them wet enough

Kind of funny since we go through such extreme gyrations (repotting frequency, pot configurations, potting mix recipes out the ying/yang......) to keep them from getting TOO wet and causing root rot.

Goldilocks syndrome :sob:

 

[Bjorn]

Anyone bother to check the natural conditions? some of these things are growing more or less soaked. I remember some Pictures of voloteanum e.g.

 

[Ray]

Anyone bother to check the natural conditions? some of these things are growing more or less soaked. I remember some Pictures of voloteanum e.g.

I agree that "checking" the natural conditions is good, but it is only the starting point.

The vast majority of us absolutely cannot match the natural conditions of a plant, but through choices of media, pots, and watering schedule, we can still find a way to provide what the plants need.

 

[gonewild]

I agree that "checking" the natural conditions is good, but it is only the starting point.

The vast majority of us absolutely cannot match the natural conditions of a plant, but through choices of media, pots, and watering schedule, we can still find a way to provide what the plants need.

Natural conditions can never be replicated in a small space. Besides most people like plants to look better than they do growing in Nature so we have to learn how to change the natural conditions to get the desired results.
Paphs may grow naturally on "living" trees or rocks but when they do their roots are free to grow much more efficiently (straighter and longer) than when in a pot or mounted on a small piece of dead wood or stone. Roots need to be spread out and spaced apart or they loose their efficiency.

 

[Stone]

Hi polyantha,

Have you continued with your urea feeding? If so are you getting good root growth as well?

 

[Brabantia]

I am also curious to know what is occurred with these urea tests.
Recently I read that ammonium (urea) supports the leaves growth and that the nitrates support the roots growth.

 

[troy]

I beleive this is a pretty good base fertilizer, any input on this?

 

[Justin]

I use Urea based 30-10-10 with tapwater and get excellent results including great root growth. I use kelp extract once per month too.

 

[consettbay2003]

I use Urea based 30-10-10 with tapwater and get excellent results including great root growth. I use kelp extract once per month too.

I would be interested in knowing how many total ppm are in your fertigation solution. Do you supplement with Ca and Mg. ?

 

[gego]

I would be interested to your media too.
Thanks

 

[Justin]

According to my water report my tapwater has hardness of 100 ppm so there is already plenty of Calcium and Magnesium in it. It is low sodium (16 ppm) and has some nitrates (1.3 ppm).

when I measure the TDS of my water it is usually around 150. pH out of the tap is about 7.5 and the runoff out of the pot is 6.5.

I use Miracle Gro orchid food which is 30-10-10 and includes Magnesium. I don't add extra Calcium.

I use about 1/8 tsp per gallon of water with every watering (much less for Phrags). If i need to green up my roths under strong lights i use a little more. (I grow indoors under lights).

i grow in a fir bark mix with charcoal and perlite, but this year i am going to switch everything to Orchiata and see if that lasts longer (will also provide more Calcium). I water everything twice a week so I think pushing plants with as much water as possible is really important.

And as i mentioned i also use kelp once per month.

I used to use Calcium Nitrate and K-Lite but I switched to Urea and never went back.

 

[gego]

Thanks.

I'm curious because I am experimenting this actually because although nitrate is good for my vandas, most of my paphs are not happy.

I think the ph has to be low enough for a better uptake of the micros first then the macros. And urea will do that. I'm using RO so I'm adding CalMag supplement.
How long have you been using this?
I hope the OP will get us some update,,,,,
Thanks