Reluctant Paphs

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On another note,,, it is also interesting to know that after all that 1000 ppm N sprayed to the roots that they are actually still alive and growing out of the potting. Could it be that you wet the roots first before you spray those salt? It is seldom that roots will not die after they got out of the potting, you must have a contant humid area.
I've been growing, caring for orchids in both Virginia and now in NW Florida's panhandle for the last 15 plus yeard and have had great success with Oncidiums, Phalenopsis, Dendrobiums and Vandas. But in that whole time, I' ve only had one paphiopedilum bloom. Believe it or not it was a sale plant at a local nursey, I noticed it had a precursor flower spike and did i mention it was on sale? But it looked distressed. Never the less,the bloom flowered and I was struck, and stuck with trying to get more to bloom. I've two I've purchased from a local nursery ( on sale again) growing in fir bark and quite green and healthy looking. Except no blooms. When the temps are above 55F in the mornings here in NW FL consistently the orchids get all the humidity and filtered sunlight they need. In the winter they are houseplants and are kept in a sunny south facing window. They are watered once a week well. They are fertilized with Orchid Plus Fertilizer 20-14-13 with each watering. But in the whole time not one hint of a bloom. Thoughts? Humidity?
Many opinions, I'm sure and different things work for different folks, but you are using a higher nitrogen (compared to other numbers) fertIlizer year round, which encourages growth, but not blooming. I heard Hadley Cash of Marriott speak this past weekend at the VOS show. His recommendation for blooming paphs (and he grows/hybridizes the MOST awesome paphs, check out his website):

Middle of Sept – middle of Dec change to Bloom Booster which restricts Nitrogen (all African Violet fertilizers are Bloom Boosters). This will stop the growth and promote bloom. Then, January – February, use 2/3 Bloom booster and 1/3 regular fertilizer. March 1, start summer water/feed schedule. In fall lower temps for about a month. The temp swing between day and night should be a minimum of 10-15 degrees through December also, for bloom (Paphs can take low to mid 50s). Water less in winter by 2-3 days as they are not actively growing and temps are lower.

Hope this helps.
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