Oh no! Whatever's wrong with Paul?

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Susie11

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This is my Paul Eugene Conroy and as you can see he is looking a little faded. I wonder what has caused this? Do you think that he needs some more Mg in his diet? I really hope that he is okay as I have yet to get it it bloom and I have had it for a year now. This has happened on the newest growth. Do orchids suffer from vertiligo too? :rollhappy:

2012-10-25162443.jpg


2012-10-25162503.jpg
 
Don't worry, I'm perfectly fine! LOL...

Seriously though, please let us know what happens and if it is a pH or magnesium issue. I am very curious.
 
Thanks guys. My water is very hard 225 ppm so I am confused as to why this has happened :confused: Do you think that I need to change the fert? I feed it at quarter strength with a 5-6-7 liquid feed. My Besseae hybrids and my Mont Fallu absolutely love this feed. :confused::confused:
 
The water is hard so you may also have high alkalinity. pH alone is a poor proxy for a true alkalinity measurment.

In that case you may want to up the ratio of ammonia to nitrate by switching fertilizer types. A slight boost of Mg in conjunction with the ammonia wouldn't hurt.

If you want to consider using a mostly nitrate based fert then alkalinity should be below 50 ppm.
 
The water is hard so you may also have high alkalinity. pH alone is a poor proxy for a true alkalinity measurment.

In that case you may want to up the ratio of ammonia to nitrate by switching fertilizer types. A slight boost of Mg in conjunction with the ammonia wouldn't hurt.

If you want to consider using a mostly nitrate based fert then alkalinity should be below 50 ppm.

Can one still continue to use a mostly Nitrate based feed by using pH adjuster such as pH down or some say vinegar?
 
Can one still continue to use a mostly Nitrate based feed by using pH adjuster such as pH down or some say vinegar?

not readily.

The best thing to do would be to thin the hard water down with RO (or rain) water.

Generally alkalinity tracks hardness in standard surface or ground waters, so my GUESS is that a 225 hardness water will have an alkalinity of 180 - 200.

If you dilute this water by at least 4:1 with RO water, then the alkalinity should be under 50 ppm

I knock my hard well water down to hardness of 20-40 and alkalinity ends up around 10-15ppm
 
Sorry Rick, what are you actually suggesting? I am a little confused by your comment. Should I stop using the water from my tap and use distilled instead or should I just alternate my feeding regime? I have 35-10-10, 2.2-1.2-2.1, and I have one specially formulated for paphs. I was always under the impression that phrags like / need a balanced fert. My water is actually 270! I just checked. I do have a TDS pen to check it with but the reading on that came back at 382ppm so I am not sure what is what. Should I get some mg then?

I am glad that PaulMC is ok. :)
 
not readily.

The best thing to do would be to thin the hard water down with RO (or rain) water.

Generally alkalinity tracks hardness in standard surface or ground waters, so my GUESS is that a 225 hardness water will have an alkalinity of 180 - 200.

If you dilute this water by at least 4:1 with RO water, then the alkalinity should be under 50 ppm

I knock my hard well water down to hardness of 20-40 and alkalinity ends up around 10-15ppm

Great that is what I shall do then. I shall get some distilled and add a tenth of tap water to it from now on. I hope that that will also get it into bloom.
 
Sorry Rick, what are you actually suggesting? I am a little confused by your comment. Should I stop using the water from my tap and use distilled instead or should I just alternate my feeding regime? I have 35-10-10, 2.2-1.2-2.1, and I have one specially formulated for paphs. I was always under the impression that phrags like / need a balanced fert. My water is actually 270! I just checked. I do have a TDS pen to check it with but the reading on that came back at 382ppm so I am not sure what is what. Should I get some mg then?

I am glad that PaulMC is ok. :)

The basic formulation label can't tell you the % of nitrogen is nitrate or ammonia based. You will need to read the fine print.

But overall I think you would get better results by diluting the TDS of your water rather than switching fertilizers.
 
Get an R.O. filter to make water.
Thanks Eric but I think that I shall just stick with buying bottled distilled as it is cheaper for me at this point.


The basic formulation label can't tell you the % of nitrogen is nitrate or ammonia based. You will need to read the fine print.

But overall I think you would get better results by diluting the TDS of your water rather than switching fertilizers.

Great, then I shall do that - buy distilled and stick with the same fert and just dilute it to twenty per cent tap and eighty per cent distilled. I hope that is sufficient.

Thanks for all of the help guys!! :clap:
 

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