Mottled Leaf Paphs in S/H?

[e-spice]

I grow all my paphs in S/H and have had good luck with brachys, parvis, multiflorals, and complex types. All generally have very good root and leaf growth and bloom fine for me. The ones I have had the most problem with are the mottled leaf types like Maudiae, sukhakulii, and appletonianum. The roots just don't seem to want to grow for me using S/H culture. I have had several mottled leaf slippers that sulk for a few years in S/H and then die. Does anyone else have the same problem?

Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions,
e-spice

 

[Ray]

I find that odd, as most of my paphs are mottled-leaved types, all in S/H, and all growing fine.

 

[e-spice]

I find that odd, as most of my paphs are mottled-leaved types, all in S/H, and all growing fine.

Yes I don't understand it either. My other paphs do great really. The mottled leaf type are typically thought of as easier to grow. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

e-spice

 

[Rick]

I find the mottled leafs are sensitive to brighter light, warmer temps, and low humidity much more so than other paphs regardless of how they are potted.

Try moving to shadier/cooler spots, and check the air humidity level. I think it should be at least 60% (the higher the better).

Then consider adding some live moss and/or some fine peat moss to the SH media.

I am presently spiking my fertilizer with epson salts and that seems to be stimulating more roots and leaves on my mottled leaves this summer too.


I also have great growth from multis with much more problems with the barbata types. I'm in TN were I have problems keeping the GH in the 80's and it often gets into 90's in the brighter spots. My best spot for barbata types is burried in a shady spot close to the wet pad with lots of cool air movement. I have a very small growing area indoors (primarily for miniatures like pleurothalids) that stays cooler all the time, and the limited number of mottled leafs (like compots of seedlings) that I keep in this area do very well.

 

[Rick]

More to consider is that the species you mentioned are more commonly found in deep forest conditions growing in deep leaf litter and moss rather than the rockier (and frequently limestone) areas that you frequently find the species that are doing well for you.

Subsequently, barbata types are used to water that is softer and more acidic than for the other species.

But I don't know if you are starting out with DI or RO water (like I do), but base water hardness and pH may be an issue for you too.

 

[e-spice]

Rick,

Those are some interesting points. I am also in Tennessee and grow under lights in my basement. The basement is cooled along with the rest of the house and stays about 70F in the summer. I use R/O water. The mottled leaf slippers are under four 34-watt bulbs. The leaves are about a foot from the bulbs. I wonder if it could be too much light? The leaves do seem a bit washed out.

e-spice

 

[Paphs_in_Rocks]

Rick had several good poiters. Since your roots are not thriving, you might consider mineral content despite the fact that you use RO water. I find my mottled-leaf plants are doing better since I went to reduced fertilizer and more thorough flushing. After hearing Terry Root last February at the Paph forum, I decided my mottled-leaf plants were getting too much light and too much fertilizer.

 

[Rick]

Rick,

Those are some interesting points. I am also in Tennessee and grow under lights in my basement. The basement is cooled along with the rest of the house and stays about 70F in the summer. I use R/O water. The mottled leaf slippers are under four 34-watt bulbs. The leaves are about a foot from the bulbs. I wonder if it could be too much light? The leaves do seem a bit washed out.

e-spice

Try spraying them (leaves and all) with a 1/4 teaspoon of epson salts per gallon of RO water. Do this for a couple of weeks, and see how the leaves react. My barbata responded very well to this treatment with nice dark leaves.

 

[Ray]

Just as a point of reference on the mineral dosing, my plants all get 125 ppm N of the Greencare "MSU" RO fertilizer in RO at every watering, and are growing bigger and faster than I have ever seen them grow.

This summer, they have been very warm (min 75°F, max 90° - maybe higher at times) almost constantly, and they show no issues at all. Yesterday I noticed emerging buds on one that bloomed in April.

 

[Rick]

Just as a point of reference on the mineral dosing, my plants all get 125 ppm N of the Greencare "MSU" RO fertilizer in RO at every watering, and are growing bigger and faster than I have ever seen them grow.

This summer, they have been very warm (min 75°F, max 90° - maybe higher at times) almost constantly, and they show no issues at all. Yesterday I noticed emerging buds on one that bloomed in April.

What is the humidity and light levels like near your barbata types? Are they mostly species or hybrids?

Most of this summer I've been having temps about like yours too.