Light requirements of slippers

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I would like you to help collecting all paphs species and their light requirements (1. group: higher (eg. exul), 2. group:moderate (eg. brachys) 3. group: shade ( eg. barbatas, anitum).)
I wrote examples but there are few ones what I have no clear knowladge about. ( eg. chanhii, hangianum, gigantifolium)
I would like to re-arrange my slippers and renew the lighting system in my GH based on this list

Many thanks for help: Istvan
 
I know someone who was growing Brachies under light at about 200 microEinsteins (which is about about 16 000 Lux of cool white fluorescent light). I guess some species would be happy at 100 microE while others, such as roths, may want much higher values. Full sunlight is about 2000 microE.
 
Hangianum grows in deep shade with lichen and algae clinging to the leaves. They look like Phalaenopsis with their leaves hanging from the vertical cliffs.
 
I know someone who was growing Brachies under light at about 200 microEinsteins (which is about about 16 000 Lux of cool white fluorescent light). I guess some species would be happy at 100 microE while others, such as roths, may want much higher values. Full sunlight is about 2000 microE.

From what I've seen of in situ pics, niveum and godefroya grow on the same cliffs as exul (in full sun).

Most concolor, thaianum, and bellatulum pics seem more inland and more shaded.

Not sure if generalization of all brachies is warranted even though its only a handfull of species.
 
From what I've seen of in situ pics, niveum and godefroya grow on the same cliffs as exul (in full sun).

Most concolor, thaianum, and bellatulum pics seem more inland and more shaded.

Not sure if generalization of all brachies is warranted even though its only a handfull of species.

It might be incorrect to think purely in terms of intensity, but we should also take into account duration. A few hours of full sunlight may be the same, physiologically, as a whole day of shade... The person who advised me of 200 microE was growing thianum and godefroydae. I had no problem growing these on a sunny windowsil in Cape Town with average winter daylight being about 200--300 microE.

Under the same conditions, the complexes had to go into a more shady spot as they started to bleach. P. insigne on the other hand did its best when it had times of full summer sun. Also, in Cape Town, stonei only flowers when given full sunlight for part of the day (but they also stand the plants in water).

I think, if you want to know what these plant enjoy in nature then you need to get an Apogee light meter and go take measurements in the wild.
 
A few hours of full sunlight may be the same, physiologically, as a whole day of shade...

I don't think so. I red an article few years ago about that. If you increase light intensity ( with same specral ingredients), photosythesis will increased too, but only up to an optimal light intensity, but if you increase light further, photosynthesis won't be increased, furthermore will be decreased.
 
Yes and no.

This is a graph I have shown on an Aquarium site:
ppfresponse.jpg


It is derived from data published by Binzer et al, Limnology and Oceanography, 51:2722-2733, 2006. It refers chiefly to aquarium plants but the basic physiology is the same.

Photosynthesis is limited by the photon flux (measured in microE/m2/s), water and CO2 supply. The curve above grows less and less sensitive to photon flux because the plant has only so many chloroplasts with only so much chlorophyll (CO2 and water are kept constant in the experiments). Eventually the chlorophyll is saturated with light, and then the ADP and NADP are all used up to make ATP and NADPH (which will be used to build sugars by the plant). So yes, eventually increasing the light has no effect, but this is not the case if CO2 and water are limiting.

CO2 enters via stroma on the leaves. Water leaves the plant via stroma on the leaves. If the plant can't take up enough water via its roots to replenish loss through the leaves it will close the stroma and the sugar-synthesizing aspects of photosynthesis will grind to a halt and eventually the chlorophyll will become saturated with light and without enough ADP and NADP it will start producing free radicals and the leaves will burn.

My observation with Disa etc... is that they are always south east facing (so they get the bright morning sun but avoid much of the midday sun and heat). My guess is that Paphs are much the same. They will orientate to get the most sun with the least heat. The more heat, the more water evaporates from the plant tissues. For a few hours of high intensity sun in the morning the plant can generate enough ATP and NADPH to supply all its needs. By midday the bright sun is gone and the plant avoid being roasted by the free radicals produced by the chlorophyll by too much light.

To survive and grow, the plant needs to produce enough sugars from photosynthesis. If it can do this from a few hours of bright sun then that is great for the plant. If it can do it from a whole day of low light then that is great too. The absolute intensity isn't as important as the volume of light needed to meet the plant's metabolic demands.

I find Brachy leaves very interesting. Ever had a good look at them? There is he mottling on the surface and then what looks like a clear layer of tissue and then green tissue underneath. Maybe the plants have their own shade-system to ensure that all their chlorophyll isn't saturated at once? Its very different to the mottling of Barbatum types.

So, the important point here is this: if you can maintain high humidity and adequate water supply, then many of the plant could possibly stand high light all day long; but if you can't, then high light will cook the plants.

Before you redesign your setup, take some plant and place them in different lighting conditions and see how they respond. Back in South Africa you could grow pretty much any Paph under 50--80% shade cloth. This would be about 400--1000 microE of 2000 microE full-summer-sun. To get multies to bloom more light was needed together with more humidity.
 
Nice summary by Tyrone. Another factor is the problem of photorespiration, which is a significant problem for C3 plants. Strong light + low water and/or low air humidity causes the loss of assimilated carbon because they can't get rid of the oxygen (when rubisco binds to O2, the plants lose assimilated carbon).

The saturation curve is also influenced by light spectra (e.g. addition of green light to red+blue can increase the photosynthetic rate near the saturation point).

The other factor is photoinhibition (how different intensity/spectra influence the break-down/renewal of photosystems), which is important for the optimal light intensity.

It depends on how you define the "optimal" light intensity, but frequently what plants are experiencing in the nature may not be the optimal (from physiological point of view). Biological competition is important in the nature (unlike under cultivate), so plants have to compromise, and they might need to "tolerate" in one or a few dimension of the abiotic factors.

Looking at photos do help to understand the range of tolerance, though. However, I'm not completely convinced that the photos accurately represent their habitat. I frequently take photos of wildflowers along well-lit trail/road side even though majority of the population is in the dark wood.
 
Another factor is the problem of photorespiration, which is a significant problem for C3 plants. Strong light + low water and/or low air humidity causes the loss of assimilated carbon because they can't get rid of the oxygen (when rubisco binds to O2, the plants lose assimilated carbon).

I'm glad you brought up the connection between light and water availability (and should probably add temp) in connection with C3 plant needs.

Although it seems like a lot of orchids are CAM plants, there have not been any paphs to be determined to be CAM (and therefor able to work in water/humidity restricted conditions).

If we were talking Cattleya that could be a whole different matter.
 
This is all very informative and thanks for sharing such detailed info. Though I have to admit I had to do a lot of googling of certain terms (e.g., CAM, rubisco). The bottom line to me is that orchid growing is not an exact science and most of these buggers are quite adaptable...within limits.
 
Paph insigne and parishii are C3 plants, see: http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/54/4/583.full.pdf .
A phylogenetic analysis suggests all the Cypripedioideae are C3 (while Catts seem to be mostly CAM): http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/149/4/1838.full

Homeostatic set-point tend to have broad optimum ranges rather than exact points, further more, homeostasis is balancing act of competing needs. Being able to function of a range of conditions throughout the day may be essential for the allocation of resources away from, for instance, light harvesting, to some other function. It may be wiser to try meet the lower range of the optimum than the higher simply as this would allow for more flexibility with regards to the plant meeting its other needs. If you keep the engine revving at 5000 rpm you are going to damage the engine. If you keep the plants photosynthesizing at 1000 microE you are going to damage the leaves.

So, because I'm something of an empiricist, if you have a wild location of Paphs near you, spend a day tracking the light intensities that the plants endure. (There are handy gadget that can actually measure photosynthesis i the field but that is perhaps too much to ask...)
 
Not all brachys grow in direct sun... Here some examples of niveum and angthong growing in situ (photos are not taken by me, credits to the respective photographers):

Angthong:
angthonginsitu1_zps5fa3ee4a.jpg

angthonginsitu_zpsa1d56781.jpg


Niveum grows on rocky surfaces but usually partially shaded by small shrubs:
Niveuminsitu8_zps85016bce.jpg


Some of the barbata like tonsum can grow very shady:
tonsuminsitu_zps859a9d9b.jpg

tonsuminsitu2_zps59e30e3a.jpg
 
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