Leaf yellowing

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labskaus

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This is a Paph. Woessner Komet (Mercatelli x adductum). It always had this leaf issue, sometimes hardly visible, sometimes like this. The only other plant showing this (to a lesser extend) is my Julius, another lowii hybrid. I don't think it is a pest but rather a nutrition issue or even genetic. Any ideas?
 

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It's an old leaf, paphs loose old growth leaves at the bottom of the fan usually not long after or before growing a new leaf out of the crown, pull off the old leaf the decaying leaf releases ethylene gas it's bad for the other plants especially blooms
 
It looks sulphur deficient, sulfur helps with the uptake of nitrogen I would flush with some epsom salts one week the next week use a balanced cal mag thats what I would do
 
This effect is not restricted to the oldest leaves, it spreads to all leaves apart from the newest ones, starting from the leaf borders. The plants were almost fine, before this issue started to spread over half a year or so. My NPK fertilizer has Sulphur, and I'm giving Epsom salts frequently. 300 Paphs are fine, two are showing this issue. I've had mites in the past and this looks different. Had my collection treated anyway. Potting mix is orchiata, which looks pretty fresh.
 
It is not a nutrition issue because your Paphs are generally healthy. I notice some yellow streaking on some newer leaves? Dare I say virus??
 
I have 2 plants that have that, they are improving drastically, I can show a current pic.
 
Hmm, it doesn't look like a bacterial or a fungal infection.
I don't know any nutrition issue that does look like this. These usually appear in the oldest or youngest leaves first. If it would be a nutrition issue it is closest to the pattern that my lowii album shows. This plant seems to need tons of Fe more than most other Paphs. So it gets some extra Fe directly to the leaves. I guess it has to much Ca in the medium and water and prefers a more acid environment.

I don't know how virus looks like...
 
Thanks for the Input, guys!

Bjorn, the plant is sitting in a spot where it dries out quickly, that's correct. I water accordingly. The wrinkling might be due to mechanical stress: the plant sits behind the door and everytime I enter the GH the leaves get bent.

Troy, the plant has seen fertilizing with an NPK(Mg) 8-12-24-(4) at approx. 1/1000 w/v, to something similar to Ricks K-lite with 90% CaN03 (approx 50 ppm N) and 10% of this NPK fert at about 5g/100 l. Mg Sulfate periodically added. I have seen effects after changing to high N at low conc. but not much with this plant.
What have you done to improve your plants?

Mike, I'm going to rule out anything. Virus in Paphs, well, I couldn't find much Information in Terms of Pictures, and nothing looked like this.

What I observe with this (and the Julius which Shows this to a lesser extend) is: once the growth reach maturity, the leafs start to show this yellow colour which spreads from the oldest leaves until most leaves are effected. The yellow Looks different to normal leaf die-back. It is deeper.
 
Every week I'll take a picture fir progress so far I only have one, when I got it roth x robinianum all the leaves had yellow on them the oldest leaves were all yellow, first week I fertilized with fish emulsion bone meal and kelp with seabird guano 5-2-1 flushed mid week with arrowhead spring water next fertilizing used epsom salts very dilute next fertilize used a 4-0-0 cal mag with a dash of floralicious plus I fertilize with distilled r.o. water the yellow is just spotting it's going away I think it would be hard to draw a conclusion from what exactly helped because of so many variables but it is going away
 
Could it be specific to hybrids with pardalopetalum?
I saw 2 weeks ago a bunch of very big paph, roth x ( haybaldianum x philippinense) in flower with 2 or 3 stems in Philippe Lecoufle GH which have exaçtly the same issue, the other paph not.
 
Thanks all for your input, that gives me a few ideas to follow up.

I'll feed additional iron and see what it does. At least the major nutrients should be around in sufficient amounts.

When I suggested "genetic" in my first post, I wondered if the cross of lowii (pardalopetalum) with a Polyantha species might in some cases result in some metabolic pathway not working properly.

I'll take a closer look into chlorosis caused by different nutrient deficiencies (N, Mg, Fe,...).
I'll also take a look at pH ranges for the uptake of these particular nutrients. The plants in question are in relatively fresh Orchiata with 5% Akadama.
 
I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this, and this is the first time I'm posting pictures, so please let me know if there's anything I can change.

This is an experiment we set up in a Plant Biology lab that I TA. We wanted to see the effect of nutrient deficiencies on sunflowers plants after ~6 weeks of hydroponic culture. Each row is a different treatment in which one nutrient was excluded from culture. I'll try to add more explanations in a different post.

Obviously there are huge differences between monocots and dicots, so take these with a grain of salt. Does anyone know of a similar experiment done with orchids? It seemed really easy to set up, the hardest part would be getting 30 genetically identical orchids to sacrifice to science!

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all leaves yellow except 1 when I got it the yellowing is going away, plant is robinianum x roth
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Just a thought, ... could it be a genetic sensitivity to too much of some nutrient ? Might be worth trying reduced feeding for a while.
 

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