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Wanted Large flowered cascading phalaenopsis

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I don't know if Peter sells standard Phals. But the cascading effect is done during staking as it grows.
 
The trick to get the super long cascades of flowers is to grow them warm both day and night until there is about a dozen leaves. The high night temperatures inhibit flowering. Then drop the nights and hey presto, huge flower spikes. I forget the minimum at night, but it’s up in the high twenties.
 
The trick to get the super long cascades of flowers is to grow them warm both day and night until there is about a dozen leaves. The high night temperatures inhibit flowering. Then drop the nights and hey presto, huge flower spikes. I forget the minimum at night, but it’s up in the high twenties.
David, high twenties—can that be correct. Phals don’t tolerate lower than 50-55 in my experience.
 
David, high twenties—can that be correct. Phals don’t tolerate lower than 50-55 in my experience.
I assume that would be Centigrade and not Fahrenheit... which would make sense.

At 10-12C (50-55F), which can occur in Durban in winter, my phals become deciduous and drop their leaves.

JL
 
It is a bit more complicated for the cascade....

The plants are indeed grown from 28 to 35 degrees for the Sogo Yukidian, depending on the nurseries. There are varieties that can be blocked at 25-26 degrees, Join Glory, and the Cygnus lines.

Then they are cooled, but the nightmare is not yet over. The cascade is made by controlling the temperature for months, as well as the humidity level between 60 and 70%. Lower, the flowers are wrinkled, higher, one can have botrytis. They do not bloom 'at once' with all the spikes, but there is a genetic trait, which is that the terminal meristem of the flower spike can continue to elongate naturally.

It is to be noted too that the heavily flowered 'professional' cascade will have a severe shock after blooming, so they are more considered as a disposable plant once they have finished their blooming. However, it it possible, over time, for a hobbyist or someone who does not force the plant, to have a natural cascade.

As for Sogo Yukidian, it is a NoID Phalaenopsis that came to Taiwan, so did Taisuco Kochdian. They were purchased from Europe, as cut flowers. Unfortunately, the plant had a virus, but it was still tissue cultured.

In one of the many batches that were treated with antivirals, a plant appeared that was virus-free, and shared between 3 growers. Hence V and 3... that gave rise to the name Sogo Yukidian 'V3' or simply 'V3' in the trade. The other clonal names, such as Pingtung King ( one of the best Sogo Yukidian actually) were re-selected from clone population of the V3, or from a mutation/selection itself. Here we are for a piece of history that I got from the person who selected the original V3...
 
It is a bit more complicated for the cascade....

The plants are indeed grown from 28 to 35 degrees for the Sogo Yukidian, depending on the nurseries. There are varieties that can be blocked at 25-26 degrees, Join Glory, and the Cygnus lines.

Then they are cooled, but the nightmare is not yet over. The cascade is made by controlling the temperature for months, as well as the humidity level between 60 and 70%. Lower, the flowers are wrinkled, higher, one can have botrytis. They do not bloom 'at once' with all the spikes, but there is a genetic trait, which is that the terminal meristem of the flower spike can continue to elongate naturally.

It is to be noted too that the heavily flowered 'professional' cascade will have a severe shock after blooming, so they are more considered as a disposable plant once they have finished their blooming. However, it it possible, over time, for a hobbyist or someone who does not force the plant, to have a natural cascade.

As for Sogo Yukidian, it is a NoID Phalaenopsis that came to Taiwan, so did Taisuco Kochdian. They were purchased from Europe, as cut flowers. Unfortunately, the plant had a virus, but it was still tissue cultured.

In one of the many batches that were treated with antivirals, a plant appeared that was virus-free, and shared between 3 growers. Hence V and 3... that gave rise to the name Sogo Yukidian 'V3' or simply 'V3' in the trade. The other clonal names, such as Pingtung King ( one of the best Sogo Yukidian actually) were re-selected from clone population of the V3, or from a mutation/selection itself. Here we are for a piece of history that I got from the person who selected the original V3...
Very interesting! Thanks.
 
If you’re happy with just twelve or fourteen five inch flowers each year then it’s quite possible to do this with sogo yukidan. Mine flowered early summer for three years like this. It was spectacular and I’m on the lookout for another one now in the Uk.
 
I happen to have a Phal. Sogo Yukidan 'V3' coming into flower now (1st bloom seedling). My greenhouse is a bit coolish and damp, which means certain death for most Phals with normal pot on the bench culture. Therefore, I grow all my Phals with NZ Sphagnum in net pots turned on their side and hung from the ceiling. This keeps them a bit warmer and water out of the crown.
 

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