Would like to show some of my seedlings

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Bjorn

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In may 2011 I received a flask of P. venustrum that is flowering for the first time now, after approx 1.5 years. This time I got 5 flowers on approximately 10 plants. Here they are, in 50mm(2 inch) square pots.


A view from above, the plants in front are mostly charlies (album and normal) received at the same time, no blooming yet


A close-up


This one was two weeks ahead of the others and got the petals curled up. Perhaps not perfect, but...


Some other flasklings, here malipoense deflasked in march 2012; recently potted. Amazing how they grow...To the left some recently potted micrantum var. eburneum. deflasked same day as the malipoense.

Tranlienianums also deflasked March 2012. 50mm pots


And so were also these vietnamense. Yummy leaves here. Astonished by their growth rate. also in 50mm pots


And YES! the substrate is mainly marble(grey) mixed with dolomite grit(white) plus some sand, leca and organics (minor amounts) - the venustrums have basically a bark based mix.
 

Secundino

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That is just stunning! Well done! When I realize that I've been growing seedlings of callosum for five years now without reaching maturity... obviously I did something wrong.
Btw, I like even the curled petals of that venustum. It may be no award winner, but its quite the species way. Where did you get the seelings from?
Great leaves, omg!
 

Bjorn

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That is just stunning! Well done! When I realize that I've been growing seedlings of callosum for five years now without reaching maturity... obviously I did something wrong.
Btw, I like even the curled petals of that venustum. It may be no award winner, but its quite the species way. Where did you get the seelings from?
Great leaves, omg!
The flasks are from Hung Sheng, Taiwan through Formosa Orchids(http://www.orchids.com.tw/).:)
B
 

Secundino

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thanks

Thank you, I've seen that site - far to expensive for me, minimum order as well... so I stick to the pics in this forum!:rollhappy:
 
D

Dido

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congrats for this nice group of plants, the vietnamense looks really happy with you.
Keep us posted about your plants
 

Bjorn

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European group order?

Nice plants, and astonishing growth w/ the venustums.
No, I do it myself. After all total costs do not get too bad, some 50% above the listed prices. Exchange rates are favourable for us now and flasks slide easily through customs - if the right paperwork is done. At the last import I had some hilarious request though, they(Norwegian authorities) requested a "declaration on Thrips palmi (Karmi). The declaration should contain a statement that the shipment has undergone treatment warranting that Thysanoptera (Thrips) is not present". For flasks!:rollhappy:
Norway is not a member of the EU and the import is a bit less restrictive, but still things have to be done right. Feel I have a relativley good grip on it though. The problem in importing flasks is of course that sales is difficult, few norwegians are into paphs (or any orchid for that sake) so getting rid of excess gets difficult.:(
The seedlings are fed with K-lite from Ray by the way. some 3-400ppm dissolved in rainwater, every time.:D
 

Bjorn

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for some of them we could find a good home......
yeah! if we only got them across the border:sob: As Norway is not a member of the EU, phyto certificate and CITES is necessary, and I am (although it may look differently) only a hobbyist hooked on this passion (for 25 years almost:confused:)
Bjorn
 

Secundino

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excess...

I should move to Norway. Its funny, never think like that Norway is not EU, but of course, it is not. It seems so 'near' ...
I learned most I know about orchid-care with a norwegian hobbyist, Hjalmar Elmberg, who lived near to where I went to school, some 35 years ago. Now that I got addicted again, I miss his advices sometimes, but though he passed away long ago, he left me his old books and lots of information I'm recalling now and then. He grew mostly Paphios, and even got to sell them as pot-flowers and cut-flowers back in the seventies.
 

Bjorn

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Great looking seedlings! Have you find the mable add anything to the plant/mix? I know dolomite can has some benefits.
Good question!:) Where is Rick? I added that for him!
I like the marble for several reasons:
i)Chemistry: I believe the marble and dolomite is relatively inert, in the sense that it does not dissolve readily. It may adjust pH slightly and counteract acid conditions, but slowly. This process will of course release some Ca and Mg which is beneficial. But basically inert. I always add some sand, think that silicon is important and underestimated. Have to do some research on that.
ii)Particle packing: equally sized particles give an airy particle packing that allows roots and air access. Water retention is adjusted with bark, moss leaves etc but not so much of it. It is perfect for potting, free-flowing and fills up between roots without disturbance.
iii) longivety: I have experieced that it is not necessary to repot very often. Infrequent repotting requires a potting mix that does not break down. Part of that is that it should consist of material with small or neglible cation-exchange-capacity CEC. I believe that saturation of the mix with cations (like potassium, K) is one of the most important reasons for the need for frequent repotting. I think that Rick agrees with me here. Generally, orchids are ill affected by too much nutrients, its better to stay on the low side. CEC makes it impossible(difficult) to flush out excess. CEC is normally a function of surface area, so dense, coarse particles minimises CEC. Fertiliser should be added in all(at least during growth season) water in small amounts. I use a total of 3-400ppm TDS.
iiii) Stability. heavy aggregates (relatively) makes the small pots more stable with a larger fan of leaves. Its practical for small pots but perhaps not that practical for large multifloras. For those I add liberal amounts of expanded clay aggregates as well.
My thoughts in a (coco)nutshell:clap:
Bjorn
 

Bjorn

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I should move to Norway. Its funny, never think like that Norway is not EU, but of course, it is not. It seems so 'near' ...
I learned most I know about orchid-care with a norwegian hobbyist, Hjalmar Elmberg, who lived near to where I went to school, some 35 years ago. Now that I got addicted again, I miss his advices sometimes, but though he passed away long ago, he left me his old books and lots of information I'm recalling now and then. He grew mostly Paphios, and even got to sell them as pot-flowers and cut-flowers back in the seventies.
Secun,
never heard of Hjalmar, its before my time. Where did you study and where do you live now?
Bjorn:)
 

The Orchid Boy

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Nice looking seedlings you have. It's amazing that the venustums are flowering already. I wish I had the room for that many seedlings. I love to watch seedlings grow up.
 

Rick

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Good question!:) Where is Rick? I added that for him!
I like the marble for several reasons:
i)Chemistry: I believe the marble and dolomite is relatively inert, in the sense that it does not dissolve readily. It may adjust pH slightly and counteract acid conditions, but slowly. This process will of course release some Ca and Mg which is beneficial. But basically inert. I always add some sand, think that silicon is important and underestimated. Have to do some research on that.
ii)Particle packing: equally sized particles give an airy particle packing that allows roots and air access. Water retention is adjusted with bark, moss leaves etc but not so much of it. It is perfect for potting, free-flowing and fills up between roots without disturbance.
iii) longivety: I have experieced that it is not necessary to repot very often. Infrequent repotting requires a potting mix that does not break down. Part of that is that it should consist of material with small or neglible cation-exchange-capacity CEC. I believe that saturation of the mix with cations (like potassium, K) is one of the most important reasons for the need for frequent repotting. I think that Rick agrees with me here. Generally, orchids are ill affected by too much nutrients, its better to stay on the low side. CEC makes it impossible(difficult) to flush out excess. CEC is normally a function of surface area, so dense, coarse particles minimises CEC. Fertiliser should be added in all(at least during growth season) water in small amounts. I use a total of 3-400ppm TDS.
iiii) Stability. heavy aggregates (relatively) makes the small pots more stable with a larger fan of leaves. Its practical for small pots but perhaps not that practical for large multifloras. For those I add liberal amounts of expanded clay aggregates as well.
My thoughts in a (coco)nutshell:clap:
Bjorn
That's phenomenal growth Bjorn!! I agree with your strategy.

I'm at work and gotta run.
 

annab

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thanks for show us.
just for curiosity ,is it natural light in the pics? or not .I believe that gravel of marble is an beautiful element for paphs ,because it bring calcium and because is inert material , but i think that it don't work well if the plant are not in greenhouse or without high level of umidity around. what is the temp inside your gh and the umidity level?and how many hours stay the plant without light?if they stay, I intend complete dark? thanks in advance.
anyways yours venustum are very nice,and you have had an excellent results in such short time too
congrats,anna
 

Bjorn

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thanks for show us.
just for curiosity ,is it natural light in the pics? or not .I believe that gravel of marble is an beautiful element for paphs ,because it bring calcium and because is inert material , but i think that it don't work well if the plant are not in greenhouse or without high level of umidity around. what is the temp inside your gh and the umidity level?and how many hours stay the plant without light?if they stay, I intend complete dark? thanks in advance.
anyways yours venustum are very nice,and you have had an excellent results in such short time too
congrats,anna
Anna, you have probaly already figured out that the pics are dominated by the HPS lights in the green-house. I tried with flash, and that was sucessful for the seedlings, but the venustrums got pale and ugly, so I choose the yellow pics. I know it makes them look a bit strange-they are nicer in reality;)
You have a point with the gravel, but water retention can be adjusted by additions of moss etc. The greenhouse conditions are variable; in winter I try to maintain some 17-25 C during daytime and 6-10 at night; in summer 17-20 at night and 25-30 at day. I must add that the greenhouse have two compartments, this is the "cold" the other has 12-18C minimum at day during winter and that is where my multifloras etc reside. Lighting is on for 10hours now 12 in summer. Humidity is regulated(at least I try) to be some 80%, in practice 75-100%.
Btw the lighting povides some 800-1000 fc, the venustrums probably lower as they are in a dark corner.
As already stated, impressive growing Bjorn !!!!

btw. where do you find the marble? Jean
Jean, the marble was bought in the local nursery as decorative stone. I am always on the lookout for such things and it can frequently be found for decorative purposes. The Dolomite grit is from a dolomite mine in the north of Norway, got it from a personal contact. Milled dolomite is commonly used in Norway as "lime" to increase soil pH. Since it is carbonate of calcium and magnesium, it does normally not increase pH to much above neutral so quite safe.:)
Bjorn
 

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