Time to throw in the towel...

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Haviing lost an entire collection twice (mealy bugs in my case) I feel your pain. When I saw the picture my first thoughts were spot necrosis from calcium deficiency, or thrips damage. Either could provide the weak spot for an opportunistic pathogen to cause further damage. Others beat me to these suggestions. If it was my plants, I'd want to rule out or address those possibilities first. And start some kind of fungicide.
 
I agree with Paphman910. Nothing to do with Calcium or Magnesium or Potassium or any other nutrient.
It is either mite or thrips (I would bet mites) damage with has allowed fungus or bacterial infection. You should treat your entire collection with a good insecticide, an acricide and a fungicide 3 times about 10 days apart.
It is very important to assume any new plant is infested and treat it before it joins the others. If you do the above you WILL get on top of this! :) Sulphur is a good start as it will kill mites (especially the microfine formulations) but you need to find a systemic as well.
I recommend using rubber gloves and holding each plant up with one hand and spraying every square millimetre top and bottom incuding the pots and media. Its a lot of work but its the best way!

Just had another look. The small bottom leaf shows definite mite damage on its upper surface!!!
 
Cleary's 3336 is a powder/granular systemic fungicide and Orthene 97%
wettable powder is an insecticide that will do the job even on mites. Both
stink, but will stop fungi AND insects. Since you don't have to broad spray,
both might be a better option. I just drench the potting medium until
it runs through the bottom. Sunspray Ultrafine Horticultural Oil is a good
follow up treatment for mites.
 
Or cinnamon extract with alcool.
Dragon's Blood works better. After you remove the heaviest damaged parts and treat with a dessicant/fungicide (I bet foot powder might even work!) separate the plants. From the photos I think you have a salt problem, lighten up on the fertilizer and definitely use RO or distilled water to flush the media. Then to take care of whatever is making the pock marks on the top of the leaves use Neem oil. I have had weeks where I have thrown out 10+ plants and trust me I mean expensive Pk hybrids, I dont think you're at that point with this problem!
 
I am saddened to read of your problem. There is a lot of good advice being given. One thing I would advise is to treat your whole collection as if it is affected/infected, no matter if the plants are or are not showing signs of the malady or not. One thing to remember is that if it is an infection, your potting medium will be contaminated as well, and if it is an infestation, they will be hiding in the potting medium. Don't just pay attention to the plants, also pay attention to the pots and potting medium. (I am not going to advise that you get rid of the topdressing of sphagnum as part of your approach, as I already said that in your original post)
Good luck, I hope it clears!
 
Another possible thing to try is hydrogen peroxide, but I think you probably already have enough suggestions! Good luck, I hope it all works out :)
 
So sad.
But keep your spirit up, follow Stone's and Trithor's advice and add a bit more of ventilation.

On an other side - can somebody enlighten me and tell me what Dragon Blood is supposed to be? What I managed to goo88el and what I found using the search of ST, it seems just a joke? (If it is not, I beg pardon. If it is and anybody wants to grow a Dragon Tree, tell me, I have some spare seeds. Everywhere.)
 
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Again, thanks guys. :)

It has also been suggested that I water too much and that this could be one of the reasons why I have these problems. I'm not ruling that option out either.

Anyway, the entire collection has been treated with the sulfur based fungicide, and now I hope I'll be able to get my hand on something better.

I agree with Paphman910. Nothing to do with Calcium or Magnesium or Potassium or any other nutrient.
It is either mite or thrips (I would bet mites) damage with has allowed fungus or bacterial infection. You should treat your entire collection with a good insecticide, an acricide and a fungicide 3 times about 10 days apart.
It is very important to assume any new plant is infested and treat it before it joins the others. If you do the above you WILL get on top of this! :) Sulphur is a good start as it will kill mites (especially the microfine formulations) but you need to find a systemic as well.
I recommend using rubber gloves and holding each plant up with one hand and spraying every square millimetre top and bottom incuding the pots and media. Its a lot of work but its the best way!

Just had another look. The small bottom leaf shows definite mite damage on its upper surface!!!
Here's the thing, I've already treated my entire collection with a systematic insecticide since I also suspected mites (and I chose one that's effective against mites and thrips). So at least that part is done. :)

And yep, I need better routines when introducing new plants to the collection, that's obvious.

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Some more pictures:

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It's very hard to capture these spots on a photo, they're much more visible IRL. I'm also wondering if maybe some of them are discolourations from the insecticide I used. But better safe than sorry, I guess.
 
rot or insects?

Interesting thread.
I have a very similar problem with a Phrag Don Wimber at present.
The problem looks just like the discoloured patch at the base of the youngest leaf in your first photo. I am sure mine is rot.
The same plant was attacked two years ago and I saved it by cutting out all affected tissue and treating the edges with cinnamon powder.
Howvere it did disfigure the plant badly and I was hoping that the present new large growth was a new beginning.
Don't discount the possibility of this being rot.
You've already treated for bugs and if any are left they should be visible under a hand lens.
The initial damage could be due to sucking insects and the present damage to rot.
I would cut out all problem areas and then try to grow the plants 'harder' for a bit of time and use epsom salts and a bit of aspirin and cinnamon.
Maybe give the plant a bit more light to encourage thicker and more resistant leaves.
It is what I will be trying,
Regards,
David
 
So sad.
But keep your spirit up, follow Stone's and Trithor's advice and add a bit more of ventilation.

On an other side - can somebody enlighten me and tell me what Dragon Blood is supposed to be? What I managed to goo88el and what I found use the search of ST, it seems just a joke? (If it is not, I beg pardon. If it is and anybody wants to grow a Dragon Tree, tell me, I have some spare seeds. Everywhere.)

I use it all the time and have good use of it, particularly for erwinia/pseudomonas and their look-alikes. I believe it was the below thread that made me test it, and although the number and severity of incidences have shrunk (touch wood!) I still apply a drop if I see watery bloches. more often than not, even crown rots are stopped and plants survive when I use the stuff.
http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5007&highlight=dragons+blood
I used to buy it from Lance, but his mail order stopped working for me so I had to find alternative Sources. It has to be resin (sap) of the Croton lechleri tree, not Dracena Draco which is what I believe is the one you are familiar With.
 
Most infestations/infections are indicative of some problem with culture. The incorrect cultural technique predisposes the plant/s to insect infestation or microbial infection. The secret is to find out what you are doing wrong as well as treating the ailment. If you don't correct the problem, you may win this bout, but the problem will recur. A growing environment is such a complex interaction of factors that it is difficult to come to grips with them all. The majority of us provide an averaged environment which suits some plants better than others. To complicate things further (or make them easier), there are a range of microclimates within our growing environments.
Obviously introducing a new plant into any environment should be done with care. The minimum I would be comfortable with is a close inspection, accompanied by repotting into my own mix in a clean pot.
One thing I have found has reduced the incidence of infections is adding EM to my water once a month.
 
Thanks, Bjorn. I'd read that and that's why I thought it might be just another joke.

Agree completely with Trithor; just add that a windowsill is still more complicated than a GH, and nordic climate (light, tº) doesn't help.
As an afterthought: I've noticed (comparing posts in a few forums and looking at my own - diseased - plants) that most of the fungal/bacterial rot-diseases appear mostly in midwinter and the first autum-like days (which may be in summer...). They have in common: low light level, shorter photoperiod, lower temperatures and high humidity. Conditions that a lot of plants dislike (even outside!) and (lot of) fungi adore...
So I think it is a good advice, keeping in mind the interaction of all parameters that influence plant growth, to add ventilation (lowers tº but also humidity, encourages transpiration and thus helps ass- und dissimilation) and to add light (rise of tº eventually, helps assimilation) this time of the year. I have grown orchids many years in the north, and I've learned a lot to adapt the way I'm growing them now at 28º latitude...!
 
Interesting thread.
I have a very similar problem with a Phrag Don Wimber at present.
The problem looks just like the discoloured patch at the base of the youngest leaf in your first photo. I am sure mine is rot.
The same plant was attacked two years ago and I saved it by cutting out all affected tissue and treating the edges with cinnamon powder.
Howvere it did disfigure the plant badly and I was hoping that the present new large growth was a new beginning.
Don't discount the possibility of this being rot.
You've already treated for bugs and if any are left they should be visible under a hand lens.
The initial damage could be due to sucking insects and the present damage to rot.
I would cut out all problem areas and then try to grow the plants 'harder' for a bit of time and use epsom salts and a bit of aspirin and cinnamon.
Maybe give the plant a bit more light to encourage thicker and more resistant leaves.
It is what I will be trying,
Regards,
David
I think the only thing I can say with certainty, is that it's not any form of rot. If it's rot, it's the slowest rot in the history of rot. I've had the Delrosi for about 8 months (it has had this, whatever it is, the entire time), for example, and despite being almost completely yellow on the underside of some of the leaves, they were still firm, and didn't smell anything. So, not rot.

The bug treatment took place about two weeks ago, so it's quite recent that I started to pay attention to the issues I had within the collection.

I do believe that it most probably was initially caused my mites, and then this, whatever it is, happily followed after.

All the infected tissue, has been removed, and I think your advice is a sound one. The worst infestations seem to have happened to the plants with the softer leaves.


I use it all the time and have good use of it, particularly for erwinia/pseudomonas and their look-alikes. I believe it was the below thread that made me test it, and although the number and severity of incidences have shrunk (touch wood!) I still apply a drop if I see watery bloches. more often than not, even crown rots are stopped and plants survive when I use the stuff.
http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5007&highlight=dragons+blood
I used to buy it from Lance, but his mail order stopped working for me so I had to find alternative Sources. It has to be resin (sap) of the Croton lechleri tree, not Dracena Draco which is what I believe is the one you are familiar With.
Thank you for all of your advice Bjorn, and I will order from the link you provided me. :D


Most infestations/infections are indicative of some problem with culture. The incorrect cultural technique predisposes the plant/s to insect infestation or microbial infection. The secret is to find out what you are doing wrong as well as treating the ailment. If you don't correct the problem, you may win this bout, but the problem will recur. A growing environment is such a complex interaction of factors that it is difficult to come to grips with them all. The majority of us provide an averaged environment which suits some plants better than others. To complicate things further (or make them easier), there are a range of microclimates within our growing environments.
Obviously introducing a new plant into any environment should be done with care. The minimum I would be comfortable with is a close inspection, accompanied by repotting into my own mix in a clean pot.
One thing I have found has reduced the incidence of infections is adding EM to my water once a month.
I've tried to like your post, couldn't. :( I want a like button on ST.

So many wise words (you been looking too deep into the wine bottle again? :wink: ) and all I can do is agree. As I mentioned in my first post, I think it's something cultural that has contributed to the problem, and I need to figure out what. I won't buy any more Paphs until I have, because it's not fun if I buy them, only to kill them all.

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When I used K-lite, the leaves on the plants got firmer, but smaller and the growth rate went down, plus some got rather pale leaves (not only the ones that got waaaaay too much light). With Blomstra, the growth rate went up, the leaves turned a nicer shade of green, but some plants got floppy leaves instead, and this problem (points to the thread in general) increased. So, I need the positive aspects of both of these fertilizers, then I think most of the cultural issues would disappear. It could be that something in my culture is causing the issues with the fertilizer in the first place, too... So many possibilities.

I have an idea of going exclusive K-lite again, but add some household ammonia, maybe to the water or maybe spray the plants with the solution. Household ammonia would be ammonium hydroxide, and I got this idea earlier, but discarded it. Maybe it could be worth a shot? What do you guys say? I really cant get my hands on urea, it's impossible, otherwise I would try that instead.
 
Thanks, Bjorn. I'd read that and that's why I thought it might be just another joke.

Agree completeley with Trithor; just add that a windowsill is still more complicated than a GH, and nordic climate (light, tº) doesn't help.
As an afterthought: I've noticed (comparing post in a few forums and looking at my plants) that most of the fungal/bacterial rot-diseases appear mostly in midwinter and the first autum-like days (which may be in summer...). They have in common: low light level, shorter photoperiod, lower temperatures and high humidity. Conditions that a lot of plants dislike (even outside!) and (lot of) fungi adore...
So I think it is a good advice, keeping in mind the interaction of all parameters that influence plant growth, to add ventilation (lowers tº but also humidity, encourages transpiration and thus helps ass- und dissimilation) and to add light (rise of tº eventually, helps assimilation) this time of the year. I have grown orchids many years in the north, and I've learned a lot to adapt the way I'm growing them now at 28º latitude...!
I agree... It's trying to get a reasonable balance between your and your apartments likes and dislikes, and the orchids... And yes, this sort of exploded now during the darkest time in Sweden, so I need some better light for my collection. I think the ones I have are too weak.
 
The last set of photos that you posted. It seems like something chewed on them. As Paphman said it could be thrips or mealies. Could also be mites. By the way, mites are not insects so you need a miticide for that and not insecticide. There might be some chemical controls that works for both if its indeed a pest problem.
 
Guys, I found some Dolomite supplement available here in Sweden. It contains some sort of extra that I don't know if it's good for plants (I'll try to translate as well as I can); starch from corn, magnesium salts (?), some cellulose of some kind (says mikrokristallin cellulosa).

I have also found what looks like straight Dolomite powder.

Could this be used to add Ca and Mg to the plants, or does have any effect at all?

The last set of photos that you posted. It seems like something chewed on them. As Paphman said it could be thrips or mealies. Could also be mites. By the way, mites are not insects so you need a miticide for that and not insecticide. There might be some chemical controls that works for both if its indeed a pest problem.
The insecticide I used is supposed to work against mites, thripes, and mealybugs (since I suspected it was mites, I bought something that was supposed to be effective against them). It's just me who doesn't know the proper terms for things. Apparently the sulfur based fungicide is also effective against mites, so if there are any mites left, they are triple-dead by now. :wink: I hope...
 
Guys, I found some Dolomite supplement available here in Sweden. It contains some sort of extra that I don't know if it's good for plants (I'll try to translate as well as I can); starch from corn, magnesium salts (?), some cellulose of some kind (says mikrokristallin cellulosa).

I have also found what looks like straight Dolomite powder.

Could this be used to add Ca and Mg to the plants, or does have any effect at all?


The insecticide I used is supposed to work against mites, thripes, and mealybugs (since I suspected it was mites, I bought something that was supposed to be effective against them). It's just me who doesn't know the proper terms for things. Apparently the sulfur based fungicide is also effective against mites, so if there are any mites left, they are triple-dead by now. :wink: I hope...

What insecticide are you using?
 

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