Pharag advise needed

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O.K. guys and girls, never did phargs. before. I friend gave me two little pieces of unknown phrags. He bought someones collection. They had little roots and the ones that were there were dried up. I put them both in one small clay pot as I assumed neither would live. I put them into sphagnum moss that was packed in tightly. I did not put the pot into a dish of water but put them under the vandas that get sprayed everyday. I also water them quite often. The plants did indeed live as I see white root tips near the top of the pot. Curiosity got the better of me so I pulled them out to look. Both have a couple of roots that are half way down into the pot and then they headed back up. So, what am I doing right and what am I doing wrong?

My second question has to do with the first phrag I ever purchased at a show. It was in flower when purchase and stayed in flower for 4 to 6 weeks since I bought it. Since being home, I put it into a tray of water in the living room and water once a week. Each of the two spikes have gained and lost a flower or two. This morning it looks like the last flower has fallen off as I don't see another bud. I put it into the greenhouse with a tray of water under it. The spikes are still green, should they be cut now or wait and see if the produce more flowers in the spring? It is a kovockii cross, and I can see two or three new growth started.

I'm all ears boys, and girls, or should I say men and women. Thanks for any and all advise.

Sorry about that, this should be listed under culture not photos. Please move.
 
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Welcome to the "Cool Kids' Slipper Club"!! :D
AS long as they are growing roots you are fine. Don't let any rot get into the leaf axels or at the base between the roots and the leaves.
Depending on what they are their watering need can differ but generally Phrags can take a lot more water than Paphs.
On the PK cross, you can leave the stem or cut it, Sometimes you can get another bud.
 
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Bob,

It sounds like you've been hooked and are on the right track. I usually do not cut green flower spikes. I had a besseae that I picked up in bloom in the spring of last year. It took a break from blooming after the 4th flower for the summer and resumed blooming in the fall.
 
Good luck, Bob! They should love you greenhouse. I'm looking forward to photos!
 
Sounds like you are doing fine. I might recommend plastic pots that sit in a saucer of water so you can water a bit more often. Plus I notice many of my phrag's will send roots out of the bottom of the pot into the saucer of water. I also notice what you did that some phrag's will send roots back up the side of the pot. No good explanation from me on that except that when they are happy/healthy and the medium is fresh, they will fill a pot with roots in no time. NYEric aptly called them "weeds" once or twice.
 
phrag culture

All good stuff. A few comments.
It is very difficult to overwater phrags providing they are growing in decent compost. I am experimenting with totally inorganic medium recommended by OL on their web site for their plant of Suzanne Decker. This is a mix of growstones and leca. So far so good. As well as my SD, I am now growing a mix of other phrags in it. If this works out then I will move everything into it.
Also when they are big the new growths mature in much less than a year - it can be as little as 8 months. So large plants can be in flower for much of the year,
David
 
I agree with cnycharles, best to move them away from the vandas, as you could get crown rot. Also, try watering every 2nd day and you may find they do even better. A lot of phrag species live where there is a constant trickle of water at the roots, on damp hillsides etc.
 
I think it's ok to have the phrag under the vanda, provided that you are watering both in the morning and that there is good airflow for the water to dry out from the crown by evening. The other reason not to water "both simultaneously" is if you think the vanda is virused, and could infect the pharg.
 
The danger is not from a virus dripping down into the Phrags from above. It is from water sitting in the crown and becoming a disease vector. If the sphagnum is working for you Bob, keep using it.
 
more than just virus, including bacteria and fungi could travel with the water. If you can avoid the dripping water daily then that's great. Big air movement is always a plus if humidity is high enough. Also dripping water over time can weaken plant tissues. If you don't have space or shading then maybe you have to have vandas over others, just have to be very watchful because there will be some point where something will rot, unless you use preventive fungicides or the like
 

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