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OK a bit more info on the tags:

Paph. Shin-Yi Genevese (Shin-Yi Lady 'CY#2' SM/TPS x sanderianum 'Red Longhair')

Paph. Jennifer Stage (philippinense var. album 'Albino Beauty' x leuchochilum var. album 'White Knight')

Two of them are now in S/H, going to wait a while before I do the others. The others are hanging suspended in a fish tank, the bottom of which is filled with wet Hydroton, with the tank lid half on for better air circulation (I don't have a small fan).

Hmm... very tempted to try some CO2 injection. Where are my sachets of yeast?! :evil:
 
i think you can measure footcandles or lumens with a SLR camera's metering system and a piece of white paper. i dont remember how exactly (i used to do it years ago before i bought a light meter) but there are probably explanations on the internet..this is another source although i am not too sure about their method of shadow casting as a dependable measure of light intensity

http://www.ladyslipper.com/1stpaph.htm

Thanks for the link, I've been to that site, but skipped that page. It says nice nice things about east windows, which is reassuring!:rollhappy:

I've found something about estimating footcandles with a camera's exposure system, there is a little worksheet from Kodak. I haven't had a chance to try it out just yet though.
 
Here are the Paph. Jennifer Stage parents:

Paph. philippinense var. album 'Albino Beauty'
Photo: Orchid Inn
philippinensealba.jpg


Paph. leuchochilum var. album (not specifically 'White Knight')
Photo: www.orchid.or.jp
DSC00051.JPG
 
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Yeah, that's Paph. White Knight 'Destiny' AM/AOS.

Thanks guys, my bad! I didn't read the label properly. Did think it was an interesting shape should've double-checked. :D I've substituted another photo now.

If there's a paintball place near you you can buy CO2 tanks and gas. :)

That's gonna be a lot of CO2! I'm just using some yeast for now. People have talked about CO2 addition before, but has anyone actually tried it?
 
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That's gonna be a lot of CO2! I'm just using some yeast for now. People have talked about CO2 addition before, but has anyone actually tried it?

I use to add CO2 (using yeast) to my fish tank when I had acquatic plants. The growth rates were unbelieveable (a few inches a day for some plants). Every week I had to massively prune the plants. Oxygen bubbles would be pouring out of the leaves as the plants were photosynthesising. It is very effective when setup well.

David
 
I have some experience with planted tanks as well, kind of an ex-hobby hehe. Yes certainly made a difference!

Just found this, which mentions CO2 and paphs. Also found this as well which talks about stomatal responses in paphs.

OK so let's see... optimal growing conditions are 1000-1500 footcandles (for mature plants), blue light supplement, high humidity and high CO2 levels. Hmm... I think that sounds like a Blue Light Disco!! :clap: Have you ever been to a nightclub where the condensation was dripping from the ceiling? :rollhappy: I wonder whether this lack of guard cell chloroplasts explains why paphs can be so slow growing? Maybe if we're growing under lights, we shouldn't just aim for "natural" sunlight but something a bit bluer?
 
That's gonna be a lot of CO2! I'm just using some yeast for now. People have talked about CO2 addition before, but has anyone actually tried it?
Not nec. You can get a 10-30 ounce tank, like for on the gun for probably $25 and refill when nec. Jim Toomey was planning on a CO2 setup but he's been away for a while so he cant respond.

OK so let's see... optimal growing conditions are 1000-1500 footcandles (for mature plants), blue light supplement, high humidity and high CO2 levels. Hmm... I think that sounds like a Blue Light Disco!! :clap: Have you ever been to a nightclub where the condensation was dripping from the ceiling? :rollhappy:
Yes, many times! :p
 
All my tiny seedlings, just deflasked, I only give 400 Footcandle for 1 year.
Particularly for the Maudiae's I don't give more than 500 foot candles. My multi's are only given 800 foot candles together with my cmplexes. But not for my rothschildianum, when I had them under 7-800, the flowerspikes tend to be too short and stumpy, until I moved them to the 600 area, and since then I have a good length of flower spike. Howard.
 
You might want to check your light meter or your units? I doubt 700-800 fc is strong enough to encourage a roths to bloom. More like 2000-3000 fc IMO.
 
You might want to check your light meter or your units? I doubt 700-800 fc is strong enough to encourage a roths to bloom. More like 2000-3000 fc IMO.

I agree

It's tough for me to get just about any plant to grow right at light levels less than 500 fc.

I also grow my roths/philis/stonei under and next to the Vandas with documented summer lighting up to 3000fc.
 
I have cheched my lightmeter. Outside under 70% shade cloth in my cymbidium shade house 3000 foot candle, and under 70 plus 50% for my cattleya 2000. Outside (naked) under full sun 12000 - 13000 foot candle. Inside the GH area of Phrag 800 foot candle, area of multis 700-800, area of seedlings 400-500, area of parvis and Maudiaes 500-600. Not sure if the meter is not accurate for lower intensity of lights. Area of Phallies 600-700, and I know they are not growing as well as in my friend's FloraPot nursery who grows his phallies under 1000 , which I observed using my light meter.
 
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I have cheched my lightmeter. Outside under 70% shade cloth in my cattleya
shade house 3000 foot candle. Outside (naked) under full sun 12000 - 13000 foot candle. Inside the GH area of Phrag 800 foot candle, area of multis 700-800, area of seedlings 400-500, area of parvis and Maudiaes 500-600. Not sure if the meter is not accurate for lower intensity of lights. Area of Phallies 600-700, and I know they are not growing as well as in my friend's FloraPot nursery who grows his phallies under 1000 , which I observed using my light meter.

Something seems a bit off. All the sources I could Google said that full sun is about 10,000 FC (although 13000 may be "about"?? ). And it seems like most of your stuff grows too good to be consistently under 800. I know we aren't taking peak vs 12 hour average into account. Maybe incident angle?
 
My GH is under under natural light. In western Australia, the sunlight is pretty intense. Always tried to take the measurent at right angle to where the sun is and took the reading around 12-1pm.
250mm under the fluorescent light in my aquarium (Only use it in winter, with 150mm water and an aquarium heater) I could only get 160 ft candle.
 
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