K-Lite Trial Parameters
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Many fertilizers have iron EDTA...
Rick
Well-Known Member
EDTA is a chelating organic chemical, but it doesn't always come in association with iron or any other heavy metal. It's typically purchased as sodium EDTA for lab use.
As opposed to the macro nutrients NPK, Ca, Mg, Na, SO4, Cl, HCO3, and sometimes silicates, iron is normally only found at much less than 1ppm in the environment. And its not found in plants in concentrations similar to those of the macro nutrients. Hence considered at micro nutrient. They are all important in their own way.
All the micros are fairly reactive biologically, so they are easier to overdose than the macros.
Rick
Well-Known Member
For instance your typical plant contains 40X the number of magnesium atoms in it than iron. Boron is just as common in plant tissues as Fe.
Looking through the list of elements that excess K causes deficiencies for:
N
Ca
Mg
Fe
Zn
Cu
are on the list. So before adding iron I would see how the plants do with reduced K for unlocking some of those critical micronutrients.
Looking through the list of elements that excess K causes deficiencies for:
N
Ca
Mg
Fe
Zn
Cu
are on the list. So before adding iron I would see how the plants do with reduced K for unlocking some of those critical micronutrients.
That makes sense.
emydura
Well-Known Member
Stone
Well-Known Member
All (good quality) orchid barks in Australia are comosted with additions of Iron sulphate to detoxify the bark and to supply Fe. Because the Iron is firmly held, and little is lost to leaching, the supply of Fe to plants will last for several years without need for further additions. Availability of Fe drops markedly once pH rises above about 6.5 but this also depends on plant sp.
I don't think I have never seen iron deficiency symptoms (or Ca for that matter) in orchids regardless of what they are growing in so presumably they are efficient in Fe uptake and probably all other nutrients. Mg deficiency seems to be the most common problem for me but I'm tryng to take remedial action. Has anyone had this problem and how long before improvement was noticed?
It is interesting to note the improvements David has experienced using Magamp. From what I rememeber Magamp (MagnesiumAmmoniumPhosphate) has all its N in Ammonium form. This is the same kind of general improvement I saw when I increased Ammonium/Urea as I mentioned in the other thread. The large increase in Mg also may be playing a part.
Mike
I don't think I have never seen iron deficiency symptoms (or Ca for that matter) in orchids regardless of what they are growing in so presumably they are efficient in Fe uptake and probably all other nutrients. Mg deficiency seems to be the most common problem for me but I'm tryng to take remedial action. Has anyone had this problem and how long before improvement was noticed?
It is interesting to note the improvements David has experienced using Magamp. From what I rememeber Magamp (MagnesiumAmmoniumPhosphate) has all its N in Ammonium form. This is the same kind of general improvement I saw when I increased Ammonium/Urea as I mentioned in the other thread. The large increase in Mg also may be playing a part.
Mike
Last edited:
Our K-Lite formula (like the MSUs) contains Fe-EDTA specifically to add the iron.
Just my opinion but I think plants benefit from foliar application of iron.
Over the years I have noticed iron deficiencies even though there is plenty of iron in the root zone. The deficiencies are quickly corrected with foliar application of iron. In the spirit of the K-lite concept maybe the high level of potassium in the soil is blocking the iron uptake by the roots?
It is not easy to see iron deficiency in some plants and orchids especially.
Over the years I have noticed iron deficiencies even though there is plenty of iron in the root zone. The deficiencies are quickly corrected with foliar application of iron. In the spirit of the K-lite concept maybe the high level of potassium in the soil is blocking the iron uptake by the roots?
It is not easy to see iron deficiency in some plants and orchids especially.
For my small part of the experiment, I began today
gearing down gradually on the K in my fertilizer solution.
I'm using 1/8 tsp. Jack's Pro, 1/8 tsp. calcium nitrate and
1/8 tsp. epsom salts per gallon of water. I'm going to try
this change-over slowly and then switch over to the K-Lite.
I have quite a few orchids in bloom/spike right now and it
seems to me that a rapid change could be damaging...or
maybe not. Anyway, it seems to me that gradual change
might be better for the plants. It makes sense to me;
how about y'all?
gearing down gradually on the K in my fertilizer solution.
I'm using 1/8 tsp. Jack's Pro, 1/8 tsp. calcium nitrate and
1/8 tsp. epsom salts per gallon of water. I'm going to try
this change-over slowly and then switch over to the K-Lite.
I have quite a few orchids in bloom/spike right now and it
seems to me that a rapid change could be damaging...or
maybe not. Anyway, it seems to me that gradual change
might be better for the plants. It makes sense to me;
how about y'all?
Part of the potential issue with potassium is its accumulation in media ("salt buildup") and in plant tissues, which may lead to deficiencies in other minerals.
In my opinion, gradually reducing the addition merely prolongs that, while "going cold turkey" aims to remedy it, and won't be the shock to the plants' systems, as they and the media probably have stored too much already.
Besides, there are about a dozen of us that already use it, and none have reported issues....
In my opinion, gradually reducing the addition merely prolongs that, while "going cold turkey" aims to remedy it, and won't be the shock to the plants' systems, as they and the media probably have stored too much already.
Besides, there are about a dozen of us that already use it, and none have reported issues....
G
goldenrose
Guest
I wouldn't wean, cold turkey is the way that I'd go!
O.k. so I'm wrong. Cold turkey it is when I get K-lite
before next fert. day which is Sunday.
before next fert. day which is Sunday.
K
keithrs
Guest
I flushed my plants for a month before I started with K-lite..... I actually had plants start throwing spikes and putting out new roots during that time. But I had very little veg growth. I'm not sure if all that was caused by temp drop, flushing or both. I have used the k-lite sparingly but everything seems to be A-OK.
emydura
Well-Known Member
I haven't had much luck either. My feeling is it doesn't contain any trace elements. Therefore, I have a bought a container of trace elements which I will add to my fertilising regime. It contains the following -
%ww
sulphur as sulphates 6.29
calcium as carbonate 10.00
Magnesium as Sulphate 3.62
Manganese as Sulphate 2.88
Iron as Chelate 2.73
Copper as sulphate 1.25
Zinc as Sulphate 1.00
Boron as Borate 0.09
molybdenum as Molybdate 0.0038
The recommended dosage is insane (12g/L). I would go through a whole box every time I used it. But I think this dosage is more for plants showing severe signs of depletion of these trace elements. So I think I will just put 5 grams in a watering can every 4th watering. Hopefully that should be enough to prevent a shortage of trace elements over time.
My plants continue to pump out new growths. My unflowered Harold Koopowitz seedling has 3 new leads now. So I couldn't be happier with the outcome of my new regime.
