Disa Smiley Face (Pink) and Disa Firebolt (Red)

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John M

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I'm enjoying these on my kitchen windowsill at the moment. I've finally figured out the trick to Disas.......high light in the winter and massive amounts of air movement and lots of water in the summer. For the first time, I put my plants under bright lights in the basement for the winter and they have done really, really well.

My track record with this Genus has had it's up and LOTS of downs. Since I started growing them ~about 2004, I've spent about $12,000.00 and killed about 24,000 seedlings, as I learned through trial and error. I was trying to develop them as a commercial crop. I'm not there yet; but, I have made some very important advances in cultivating them successfully. I seemed to do well for awhile; but, I'd have troubles in the summer and then again in the winter. What was left would rally back in the Spring and Fall. The summer was too hot inside the greenhouse with not enough air movement. Last summer, I was down to only about 200 plants and I tested this theory by growing some plants on the bench; plus, I put a few plants right next to the intake of my 4' exhaust fan where they got BLASTED by the air as it was pulled past the plants and out of the greenhouse. To stop desication from the "wind", I stood them in an inch of water at all times. The plants on the bench were only about 10 feet away; but, in a completely different microclimate and they suffered big losses again. The high volume of air rushing past the plants near the intake of the fan cooled them by evaporating moisture from their leaves and pots. This cooling effect was much stronger than for the ones on the bench. The plants by the fan not only survived, they flourished over the summer, even though the ambient temps were hot. The MASSIVE amount of air movement made a huge difference.

In the fall, I put them all outside to get the chill.....and many of the stressed ones rallied back. Then, I managed to frost them all! Lots of damage and some deaths! I knew that the temps were going down to 0*C or even a bit lower; so, I covered them to protect them from the frost. All the literature I've read goes on about how they survive just fine in their habitat when they experience freezing temps. Well, plants in pots don't like that! However, lots of plants did survive. The newly beat up survivors then went into the basement, not back into the greenhosue. This avoided them suffering through another long, dull winter. I put them in the basement under four, 8' long, daylight Fluorescent tubes on a table 2' wide x 8' long and completely wrapped in tinfoil to reflect all the light back onto the palnts.....nice and bright. I set the day length to be just 8 hours in December and January. Then, in February, I increased it to 16 hours and began to fertilize weakly.

The few plants that were sickly to begin with just died off. The hot summer and frost in the fall was just too much for them. However, about half of the frost survivors were in okay shape and they flourished over the winter, especially once the day length was increased.

The pots are 4" clay and I stand them in a puddle 24/7. I use R.O. water and foliar feed them about every two weeks once the daylength is increased up to when they bloom. Then, I stop feeding while they're in bloom and don't start again until I see new growth. They are potted in 2/3 perlite and 1/3 peatmoss.....very acidic. I think I'll add some chopped sphagnum moss and styrofoam chips when I repot in September.....just to lighten the mix a bit and make it more "fluffy". By now, the peat/perlite mix is pretty well compacted.

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Wow! What colour, and what an endeavour you went through with your plants! I've also tried (and failed) with this genus.

Do you have plans to go to see them in their native habitat? Have you ever been? I would love to go to the WOC 2014 in Johannesburgh.
 
Gorgeous flowers! I'm impressed with your dedication and perseverance.
 
Thanks everyone.

Kevin: No, I don't have plans to go to the WOC in 2014. I'd love to go; but that's just not going to happen. I'd love to see them in their native habitat. Maybe some day I'll have the finances and the time to go on a trip.

Eric, the peatmoss is just regular Canadian Peatmoss that I bought at a garden centre. It's nothing special or high-end.
 
huh, i posted and it disappeared. after reading here about cyp growers using a lot of the japanese media like kanuma and others using turface and things like that, i was wondering if one of those types might be good for growing disas? that and zeer pots might be helpful for those of us silly enough to keep trying to grow them. i don't feel so bad, now about how many i've bought and killed, at least you are doing it for a reason and are keeping track of your research and making positive progress
 
Magnificient display John. Great colors, but they are hard plants to grow. I flowered many of them years ago but was never able to keep them alive after flowering. At the time, I thought an ebb and flow system might be a good way to grow them but I never actually tried it.:clap::clap::clap:
 
Very beautiful and very well grown plants...

Disas, I have seen once a commercial crop in Germany. The seedlings were deflasked in sphagnum platelets (Skeggs), in trays. When the leaves were about 5 cm, they were potted in Grodan Growcube rockwool, in 15cm clay pots, with two drippers per pot, constant watering, Excel CalMag at 1500 microsiements ( one thousands five hundreds, not a mistake), watered about 4 times a day for 15 minutes. They were in front of fans, but so far the leaf temperature is not important, the root temperature is. Their greenhouse went up to 35-38 celsius in summer, and the plants did just fine, because the clay pots cooled the roots, and the rockwool cooled them even way more.

In their habitat, I have seen some herschelianthe, which are basically the same, the top growth can grow warm to hot, but the roots need to be kept very cool. I still have some in Hanoi, as long as the pots are cool/cold, they do fine.

There are very few suppliers of disas so far in the world now, commercially, and the largest in South Africa, was the supplier of the German crop ( intended for pot plants). Whilst the plants were gorgeous, several varieties were heavily virused, and there were many muted plants (the SA lab makes tissue culture from flower spikes indeed...)
 
huh, i posted and it disappeared. after reading here about cyp growers using a lot of the japanese media like kanuma and others using turface and things like that, i was wondering if one of those types might be good for growing disas? that and zeer pots might be helpful for those of us silly enough to keep trying to grow them. i don't feel so bad, now about how many i've bought and killed, at least you are doing it for a reason and are keeping track of your research and making positive progress

I grow mine now in straight diatomite with just a layer of aliflor in the bottom of the plastic pots to block the diatomite from running out the drainage holes. I chose it since the sphagnum I was growing them in always turned to slime and the diatomite was as close as I could get to the river sand they naturally grow in. They're in a flowtable with three one-hour floods of 50degF water 3x a day.
 
Great success story (and picture)! Disas are very pretty IMO and hopefully there will be more Disa success stories and pictures on this forum! :D
 
Thanks everyone!

For those interested in trying Disas, I have one other thing to add with regard to their successful culture. It's best to keep the humidity low and not to wet the leaves, especially in winter or anytime that the light is poor. In my greenhouse, I do a lot of misting and getting all the foliage wet. Plus, my greenhouse is naturally very humid. The disas were always very prone to rot in the greenhouse. Getting wet so often wasn't good and if they stayed wet for more than a couple hours, I'd see problems with the foliage a few days later. Also, if the humidity is high, that just makes rot a constant concern.

The plants that I had in front of the greenhouse fan last summer dried their foliage within minutes of getting wet. Of course, the plants didn't suffer from all that air movement because the plants stood in a puddle of water 24/7. In the basement of my house, I mostly just add water to the trays that the pots are standing in. Sometimes, usually just when foliar feeding, I do spray the leaves with water. However, because the plants are in the house, where it's not as humid as the greenhouse, the foliage dries off quickly.

So, to conclude, it has been my experience that dry foliage and lower humidity is also very important to keeping a Disa happy. The level of humidity that keeps aerial Vanda roots happy with lots of growing green tips, is death to a Disa. Also, Disa pollen is prone to fungal growth if the humidity is too high or if the flower gets wet. Of course, once the pollen begins to rot, the flower looks aweful. So again, this is another reason to keep the plant's foliage and flowers dry and in a lower humidity environment.

Actually, when you consider the things that I've come to realize about Disas, it seems to be telling me that they'd make perfect windowsill plants with just a little bit of extra consideration. A Disa planted in a clay pot, standing in some water, with a small fan blowing on it and some supplemental light during the dull weather, should be a happy camper and perform quite well.
 

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