Thanks all.
Candace, the reason I want to try dropping the temperature for a few of my plants is that in my experience with other flowering plants (I am thinking here mainly of citrus) buds cannot develop without a cold snap. I have heard that the diurnal range is key to bud development in Paphs, but I also wonder if the colder varieties might need the snap/rest (i.e. low minimum temps vs. a large diurnal range) to keep their blooming and growth cycles regular. If that is true, I might make up for the lost grow (stunting them) caused by lower temperatures in the fall/winter with increased vitality in the spring and summer from a more natural cycle. Just an idea I have found useful in other contexts. Furthermore, I think you and I are in the same temperature range (45-50F), so there is not much disagreement there. I simply wanted to get a better read on which plants to subject to that treatment, since I am new to Parvis (although I have grown other types of Paphs for a number of years).
Again, thank you all.
EDIT: Oh, by the way, the reason for the change is that most of my plants are doing well, but a few are showing little growth (a problem I have had before from too constant a temperature), so I was wondering if I needed to further increase the seasonal differences for those plants. I am not going to change a thing (within reason given my move) for anything that is doing well. As for Kevin’s question, I currently grow all of these in the same space, but more warm-blooded orchids stay further away from the windows, so stay on the 60ish side of my range. Also, these are minimums for winter; currently (summer), my plants have about 90 degree days (heavily shaded with lots of air-flow) and about 72 nights. They are under supplemental lighting (currently on a porch, hence the heavy shade) that warms them a bit, but only a few degrees.
