Blooming

[Carper]

Hi all,

I would like members views on the following.

I mainly have a multifloral paph collection. Many are now becoming multigrowth and very large but I feel flower count could be better! Seasons and the weather are not great in the UK so I feed accordingly. I always measure the strength of my feed which is around 400 m/S. ALL my plants receive this and grow very well but should I be feeding at a higher strength with the feed, especially with the larger ones. I have a 13 growth David Ott, 40 growth philiipinense etc. Should these be getting more and Some thing extra when in spike? I have heard the multis may require more, but is this correct?

Thanks

Gary
UK

 

[Linus_Cello]

Personally, I think multis need more light then "regular" paphs (especially compared to maudiaes and brachys etc). Think cattleya light levels. Maybe this will help.

 

[JAB]

I am not sure if "cattleya" light levels are required but I agree with Linus regarding more light. I assume you are using some artificial lighting since you live so far north?
I mean a 40 growth Phillipinense is going to need A LOT of light! BTW got a pic? That is impressive!

Cheers
JAB

 

[gego]

40 growths is very impressive, never mind the flower, show us how to get there. How big is the pot? Yes, pics?????????

 

[Carper]

I only supplement lighting to my seedlings on a heatmat, not to all the greenhouse. I go with the light provided by the seasons. We are month away from the longest day, receiving around 16 hrs of light but rarely do we get full sun for long periods, usually occasionally!! This was the phili a couple of years ago and there a quite a few maturing growths.



Gary

 

[SlipperFan]

Beautiful, Gary.

I agree that most multifloras need more light than most Paphs. Exceptions are gigantifolium, anitum and adductor -- these want lower light.

 

[Stone]

I think feeding at 400 is enough. Besides more light and heat, I could only add that you could try reducing the N a couple of months before you expect initiation of spikes...It may just be that it's not quite hot enough and your not getting fast enough maturity during the grow season. Reducing the N may help with this?

 

[Justin]

Can you install a HPS or other supplemental lighting?

 

[NYEric]

If I were you, I would move! :evil:

 

[Carper]

Thanks for the comments,
.

What would the constant temp recommendations be while in bud. The light I can't do much about unless I supplement. I will try and reduce the N while increasing the temps. Does the humidity need to increase. My temps are generally around mid 70s and humidity around 60%.

Gary

 

[gego]

add light and get free heat.

 

[Happypaphy7]

Wow~

I wish I had a basement or greenhouse where I could have such large plants and not worry about moving them around to water or space they take up.

Anyway, not knowing how big of an operation you have going, you might consider adding light bulbs.

Heat generating bulbs like HID and even Halogen might be too costly depending on the size of your greenhouse.

You could try fluorescent lights.
I have read articles about this person who grows indoor with fluorescent light bulbs, and he has multi paphs flowering beautifully.

Hope you find a good solution!

Oh, I think flower count also has to do with plant genetics, of course.
See and compare how the rest of your plants compare to some other examples and you might have a better idea.
I understand UK has many cloudy days, but of course I do not live there and you are probably better off consulting local members who grow mutlis and have a better ideas that way??

Good luck!

 

[Migrant13]

Great specimen!

 

[phraggy]

Can't help on this one Gary. You're one of the best multi growers in the UK as this pic demonstrates. For what it's worth all my large multis ( 5 growths plus )
are sitting on heated sandbeds which I keep wet and at a temp of around 25c so the roots are always warm when the air temp drops down to 14c. The humidity never drops below 85% and I feed at 250ppm every two days and flush with ro water every 4 days. Things seem to be going well with St. swithin,philippinense, hung sheng eagle, lady isabel, rothschildianum and parishii all in differing stages of bloom.

Ed

 

[cnycharles]

Phraggys method of giving some extra heat from setting on heated soil bed is most efficient. Warming base of plant/roots is best way to keep them warm enough to be happy though yours look pretty darn happy!

If you wanted to cheaply sneak in a little more light, get some Mylar or other highly reflective material like aluminum foil over cardboard etc and place to sides of plants so that light bounces to the plants you want. Photographers use this to light their subject when not enough natural is present. May not get huge light boost but may be enough just to optimize your flowering like you want. Also no electricity or fixtures are needed, you can put wherever you want




Elmer Nj

 

[JAB]

Great point Charles.

How many folks use heated benches or similar methods for culture? Smart and efficient idea.

 

[Carper]

Can't help on this one Gary. You're one of the best multi growers in the UK as this pic demonstrates. For what it's worth all my large multis ( 5 growths plus )
are sitting on heated sandbeds which I keep wet and at a temp of around 25c so the roots are always warm when the air temp drops down to 14c. The humidity never drops below 85% and I feed at 250ppm every two days and flush with ro water every 4 days. Things seem to be going well with St. swithin,philippinense, hung sheng eagle, lady isabel, rothschildianum and parishii all in differing stages of bloom.

Ed

You are definitely growing them well Ed and the conditions that you are providing may well be the way forward for me to try. Obviously the sand is helping provide a higher humidity level where as my heat mat isn't. The feeds etc are similar, but I also think you may be getting higher light levels than me so that will be something else I need to look into.

Gary