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Rusty neck

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Fredmax

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I have a problem that seems to eventually impact all my paphs and would like to better understand the cause, as shown in the pic the neck of the fans all seem to get this reddish rust marks that tends to eventually deteriorate the leaves. I've dealt with mealybugs (the white on the roots is remnants of a confidor tablet), and have seen spider mites time to time so am trying to control them, would the damage be attributed to them or is it a fungal issue that's the cause? Me and my paphs thank you.
 

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Grungemanbaby92

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I have the exact same issue with mine. I have no idea what the cause is either.
 

Ozpaph

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First, the roots look really dry. I dont think its rot as its the leaf edges. Could be 'bug' damage. Id check you are watering enough. Better air movement. Close observation.
 

SouthPark

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True ------ maybe more air movement in the growing area can cut down or eliminate chances of that happening. Earlier this year, I have a baby Paph. vietnamense that started getting fairly bright rust coloured patches on the leaves to begin with ---- maybe mites started things off. And then the rot started ...... was not lightning fast rot .... and not snail pace. I tried thiomyl and yates anti-rot phosacid ----- which didn't help. And finally tried copper spray ----- which stopped whatever it was in its tracks. The result was impressive. Immediate stop of all spreading activity.

I have a vietnamense growing right next door to the one that developed issues, and other plants all around it. This was the only one that got affected by whatever that was.
 

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Fredmax

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Wow that doesn't look good, impressive that it got halted.

Whatever has got my plant (lost tag but think it's P jackii) is getting momentum, the same affliction took out a few species last season - all starting with the rusty neck. Strangely every brachypetalum is unaffected. Much like last year the decline occurred right on spring when I moved them from the house to the greenhouse. I do have spider mite issues, but that's from the house.

I have restricted water over winter but the dry roots was directly after I sprayed it with Confidor ( Imidacloprid) and let it dry out before repotting, some did better after I transplanted in clay balls, the leaf loss slowed.
 

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SouthPark

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Fred - you're in Australia too, right? I bought 'liquid copper' from Bunnings. Provide some nice gentle air-movement around the plant too if at the moment it doesn't get much air flow.

True .... totally agree Fred ..... for the baby Paph --- the rot maybe took out three-quarter of one leaf ..... and once the copper spray was applied, the undamaged portion has just stayed like that --- remaining green and functioning. Also interesting that a single older leaf was untouched - and remained in pristine condition throughout the 'ordeal'.
 
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Ozpaph

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I think they are too dry. Check the underside of the dying leaf tip by wiping with a clean moist white tissue - any spider mites etc???
 

Fredmax

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Just an update, I cut the leaf below the yellowing and am growing in on my windowsill where it can be monitored, I have been watering it vigorously in the warmer weather and the yellow has stopped. I've also used a insect bomb as was recommended to me for the mites and has worked wonderfully.

It's safe to say I've got the potting media wrong, but tried to put it in a dry media so stop further rotting. I need to do some searching on the precise media to use but am starting to think the leaf issues are a result of dehydration as it stopped the moment I watered it more regularly.

I'm also certain the red marks are mealy related as other non slipper orchids show similar neck marks and can usually find a few of them in the crevasse of the leaf, these things are a true pest! For fungicide I'm using something fairly nuclear called Octave in straight powder form, it seems to work well but have to mask up and wear gloves within 1 mtr of it, I haven't seen other fungicides have as instant effect on slippers.
 

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