reblooming phrags

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.... I can only assume I do not have enough light....guess they need more than paphs. Although having said that, I do have a couple of mature phrags among the regularly blooming oncidiums and they refuse to spike as well!
:( I'm probably going to be of no help but I'll try! :pity: My first thought when I read your posts was WHAT? with the intergenerics & oncidiums you grow, you should be able to bloom phrags! I group my phrags according to light needs, some are with my multis, then there are those that are in lower light levels (MDC, Rosy Charm x bess, Hanne Popow & EY x Waunakee Sunset are in spike) than most of my other paphs. Both groups bloom regularly for me. What's your fertilizing schedule? If they're producing growths, is it too high in nitrogen? Some on this forum have said they don't fertilize & theirs bloom regularly.
 
Good to know, Russell! The Firestorm I got from you have a growth that is near maturity. I'll just move it outside in spring and hope it will spike with the higher light!

Goldenrose... *raise hands*.. I admit I am one of those growers who almost never fertilize my phrags. :sob: I fertlize maybe once a month in the summer? 1/4 strength of Dyna-gro orchid food.. and that's it. No fertilizer from October til next spring.. due to laziness. :sob:

I'm thinking of selling/trading off my paphs for phrags in spring. Paphs don't like me as much as phrags do.. so I will find them a new (and hopefully better) home..
 
this is getting to be a very interesting tread. but if you move out in the early spring, would it still be enough time for them to bloom--i mean will it be cool enough and stuff to help them initiate spikes and stuff and have them bloom by the summer?
 
They will spike when they feel like it.. lol~ :rollhappy: we are always at the mercy of mother nature.. can't force-bloom them.

but regardless of when you move your plant outside (spring or summer), the temperature will most likely be lower than inside the house where they spent the whole winter, and the temperature fluctuation should also be higher.. so hopefully they will spike. *fingers crossed* I don't recall a slow growing spike from any of my phrags. usually I get flowers within 4-6 weeks of noticing a spike.
 
well I don't bloom oncidiums very well... (other than psychopsis and tolumia) hmmm. my huge sharry baby has never bloomed for maybe 5 years

I do wonder what can cause bud blast though. Is it when spikes get too cold?
 
I'm reading this thread with interest because I've been growing my Jason Fischer for 18 months now and still no sign of a spike. I'm reluctant to buy more Phrags because they take up space and I don't want to end up with yet more plants that won't flower.

When people say "more light" what level are we talking about? Multi Paph level? Less? More?
 
I'm reading this thread with interest because I've been growing my Jason Fischer for 18 months now and still no sign of a spike. I'm reluctant to buy more Phrags because they take up space and I don't want to end up with yet more plants that won't flower.

When people say "more light" what level are we talking about? Multi Paph level? Less? More?

I've found it hard to generalize for all phrags and all temperatures. The best I could say is that many of my phrags seem to like cattleya level light, but not if they get to multi paph level temps. A few like richteri and lindleyanum seem to be getting much bigger and faster growth at phal level light (also with cooler temps). Keep in mind that cooler for me is 85 max. The multi paph side of the GH can get leaf temps in the 90's.
 
Thanks guys. I had the JF under my CFLs where the Catts, multi Paphs and even my Ascda flower but the Phrag just ended up looking stressed. I figured it was too warm so moved it to an East facing window. It perked up there, grew a new growth but no flowers. I might see if I can move to a South facing window next.
 
Since a lot of paph species grow on the edge of rivers,m cliffs, or waterfalls they get a lot of light, water and mist. Hope that helps.
 
Salvation , in terms of light, always look at the color and appearance of the leaves, if leaves are very long ca indicates the lack of light and color is not dark green but draw a little on the yellow which indicates the quantity for each of the right light
 

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