Phalaenopsis stuartiana var. nobilis opening up

[Happypaphy7]

I bought this from Ten Shin at the Deepcut back in February.
It was in short spike and I like yellow flowers, so I took it without thinking much.

The spike branched quite well, but it started to die off one by one.

The few remaining buds slowly developed.
I didn't know this species open all the buds at the same time.
I'm interested to see how yellow this will get.

The first photo is about 10 days old and the second one was taken today.

I am rather troubled by jagged edges on all of the flowers. Hopefully not virus, but will test it any way.

 

[abax]

Give it time if you just brought it home. Phals. are a bit fussy when changing from one set of conditions to another.
I'd love to see it again when the blooms open.

 

[Marco]

Exciting. I always wanted one of these.

 

[trdyl]

Sweet!

 

[NYEric]

Good luck. What are you growing it in? Maybe more water...

 

[trdyl]

Maybe more water...

More water?

 

[SlipperFan]

Looks like it will be quite nice.

 

[mrhappyrotter]

Great. I have the regular form, which I bought before I realized that the nobilis form was the yellow variety I'd seen online. I definitely like nobilis more and yours looks like it's about to put on a terrific show. I love the branches.

 

[Hamlet]

I agree with abax, Phals can take some time to adjust to new conditions, it's not rare to see them drop buds or flowers after moving them in a new environment. So I think you're doing great, you're getting quite a lot of flowers for such a small plant still!

 

[bigleaf]

In my experience nobilis can be more challenging. Watch with care not to let the root stay wet in cool temperature. Your best bet is fast wet dry cycle

Nobilis tends to be more challenging probably from inbreeding selection for yellow color form.

 

[Happypaphy7]

I guess the photo does not show the fine details, but the "toothy" edge" has nothing to do with underwatering, which by the way, mine has not suffered.

I'm just worried if it's just a crappy clone or work of virus.
There was a study done on a large flowering white phalaenopsis.
Ones infected with CymMV showed no signs.
Ones infected with OGRS and infect with both virus had flowers with various deformity, and uneven outlining (or the edge of the petals and sepals) was one of the major signs.
Hence, my worries.
It is a first time flowering and only has about three good leaves, so I'm not sure if I want to sacrifice one leaf for testing.
hmmm

 

[Happypaphy7]

I agree with abax, Phals can take some time to adjust to new conditions, it's not rare to see them drop buds or flowers after moving them in a new environment. So I think you're doing great, you're getting quite a lot of flowers for such a small plant still!

True. and the fact that I got this back in February in freezing cold.
I sort of expected blasting although disappointing.
It does show great potential because this is only a first time bloomer and all the branching (including the blasted ones) side spikes were just so promising for future blooming, even next spring.

 

[Happypaphy7]

In my experience nobilis can be more challenging. Watch with care not to let the root stay wet in cool temperature. Your best bet is fast wet dry cycle

Nobilis tends to be more challenging probably from inbreeding selection for yellow color form.

Weak/inferior due to recessive genes accumulating? lol
I will see. I tend to be paranoid about virused plants when it comes to certain genera like mericloned phals, cattleyas, and oncidiums among others.
You grow lots of phals that are mostly seed propagated.
What's your take on virus? I mean, what do you do to minimize the rate, or do you sometimes run test??


This one is in large coconut chips with stone at the bottom of the pot, so drainage is excellent.

The apartment is warm, well, at night a bit cooler.

 

[abax]

Just a note at least for my conditions, I've found a good
number of species and primary crosses and a few hybrids do better
mounted on cork with a good pad of sphagnum or even
long fibered coco. The plant gets quick drainage and the
spikes look more "natural" and don't have to be staked.
Of course, mounts do have to be watered more often. To
me, this is compensated by the fact that you don't have to do much repotting.

 

[Happypaphy7]

I know what you're saying, but I don't do mount.
It is not for indoor growers, really.

 

[abax]

Oh yes, you can mount in a house. I did it for years before
I had a greenhouse. I did have a humidifier close to the
mounts, but the mounts were actually much less trouble
than taking pots to the kitchen to water. I also do horizontal mounts in my greenhouse for Phals. along with
vertical mounts on a long wall.

 

[Happypaphy7]

No, not for me.
Too dry and I'm not going to stand by it misting every hour.

Still not open. Slowest thing ever!
Very toothy. I think I might just throw it away.

 

[SlipperFan]

No, not for me.
Too dry and I'm not going to stand by it misting every hour.
...

Not impossible. Get a very large clay pot -- 15-18" diameter, soak it until fully saturated, set it in a shallow pan of water, and hang your mounted plants inside the pot. You can water them once a day -- the excess water will wet the pot and drain into the pan, replenishing the water. The clay pot helps add humidity to the air inside the pot. This worked for me for many years when I grew inside the house.

 

[Happypaphy7]

Thanks for the tip, Dot, but I just threw the plant away in the garbage today.
The poor quality flowers never opened further.

I threw away some other plants that I grew tired of, and then ordered two Phalaenopsis schilleriana of different breeding line from orchid web to fill up the space! hahaha

 

[jtrmd]

virus..definitely! needs to be microwaved for at least 5 mins.