K-Lite Trial Parameters

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If your micros have 2.3% iron.
If the K-lite formula has .1548% iron
Divide 2.3 by .1548 and you will see how much to add of the micros to have the same strength.
So if you use 1 tsp of the K-lite (or similar) you would add 1/15 tsp of the micros.

I think?
It's been a long day....:eek:
 
If your micros have 2.3% iron.
If the K-lite formula has .1548% iron
Divide 2.3 by .1548 and you will see how much to add of the micros to have the same strength.
So if you use 1 tsp of the K-lite (or similar) you would add 1/15 tsp of the micros.

I think?
It's been a long day....:eek:

My head hurts. I think it will be very hard for me to match exactly what is in the K-lite formula as I have fertiliser coming from a couple of sources - some of it through irrigation and some of it through foliar. Plus it is hard for me to gauge how much is coming through the MAGAMP. So all I am only interested in ensuring my plants are getting enough of the micros. 0.1548% is 2/3's of bugger all. So I don't think I need to add much. Maybe even less than I was planning. I am sure Rick has says in the past that it is very hard to overdo the macros (k aside) but it is very easy to provide toxic levels of the micros. So I think it is just a matter of providing a small amount and assessing it from there.

The tap water contains some of these micros which may be enough. Here is a breakdown of Canberra's water -

Iron - 0.033 mg/L
Manganese - 0.010 mg/L
Aluminium - 0.033 mg/L
Copper - 0.018 mg/L
Lead - 0.0004 mg/L
 
I think we can get ourselves into a confusing loop if we're not careful.

This study is based, to a significant extent, on the balance between nutrients, not just their absolute concentrations.

If plants were so "transparent" to the solutions they were exposed to, we'd expect the mineral content of them to change with what is applied to them. To some degree they are - provide a lot of nitrogen, and the plant will take it up, but that doesn't hold true with all minerals. Some are no longer absorbed (or are, at a very reduced rate) when internal supplies are sufficient. Others are preferentially taken up and stored, even if the plant doesn't have an immediate need for them.

I read a summary of a study done on rainfall chemistry in central Panama, and while we're on the subject of iron, it showed rainfall containing 0.05-0.3 ppm Fe, while the dried plant tissue of epiphytes in the area contained the equivalent of 1400 ppm.

That's one reason I like to think of feeding plants in the same vein as calorie-counting in people. Heaving feeding infrequently is like binge eating. A lower-"calorie", steady diet is better for the overall health of the being. When it comes to the minor nutrients, as long as you get "some", "every now and then", you're probably OK.
 
Went back and reread parts of this thread.

Be very careful with the addition of trace elements to your feeding regimen. It is far easier to overdose plants on them than stifle them through deficient feeding.

Products like that and Scott's STEM are intended to be used at very widely-spaced intervals (like Emydura's product' 2 years) to supplement a total lack of them.

I would not consider the reduced levels in the K-Lite to be any sort of issue whatsoever, as they are provided at every feeding, the fertilizer, like the MSU blends, is designed for continual feeding, and the simple fact is, the plants really don't need that much of them.
 
Went back and reread parts of this thread.

Be very careful with the addition of trace elements to your feeding regimen. It is far easier to overdose plants on them than stifle them through deficient feeding.

Products like that and Scott's STEM are intended to be used at very widely-spaced intervals (like Emydura's product' 2 years) to supplement a total lack of them.

I would not consider the reduced levels in the K-Lite to be any sort of issue whatsoever, as they are provided at every feeding, the fertilizer, like the MSU blends, is designed for continual feeding, and the simple fact is, the plants really don't need that much of them.

Thanks Ray. I will use it very sparingly.
 
For the micros, it depends on your situation, and your input water ( always remember that RO or DI removes some of the ions, but not all, and a substantial amount can be left of some of them, even up to phytotoxic levels as boron). But orchids definitely benefit fro micros supplementation, if you know exactly what you are doing.

The symptoms of micros deficiencies in orchids are exceedingly tricky, because some things like zinc will show a general plant chlorosis, and the new leaf still emerges dark green albeit small and narrow, which, for other crops, tells it is NOT zinc. Orchids are slow growing, they are using specific pathways more similar to succulents and some palms, so the 'immobile' elements can in fact move inside the plant.

This said, figures about iron in the potting mix vs. in the leaves are most of the time wrong. iron can be soluble, and easily detected in a water extract of the potting mix/soil in the forest. It can be insoluble in various states, and in some of those states, like iron oxide, the plant's roots still can extract it. In the latter case, a water extract will show no iron at all, or a very tiny amount, but in fact the plants still can extract, and even be poisoned by it. This is true for most ions anyway.
 
Could use some help please with a concentrate calculations, I think I got the numbers right but I hope that one of our experts can cofirm if I got my numbers right.

As the K-lite is not a homogenous mixture I want to start working with a concentrate. I've got a 5 liter Jerrycan for this

I've got about 500 grams of K-lite


500 gr. K-lite * 13%N = 65000mgr. pure N

65000mgr. pure N / 5kg H2O = 13000ppm N solution

If I would like to dilute this concentrate to 100ppm N I need to dilute it with a factor x130.

I normally water in a bucket which holds 7 liters of water.

So to get a 100ppm N solution in that bucket I need to add 0.053 liter of the concentrate to the water in the bucket.

Correct?

2nd question would this ammount of salt actually dissolve in 5 liters of water. Or do I need to redo the calculation at a lower concentration?

Any other parameter that I missed that I should pay attention to?
 
After getting my chemistry confirmed with help from Ray, I do the following:

1. Make a 10% stock solution of K-Llite. I make smaller volumes that only last me about a week so that I am always working with fairly fresh material. I even keep the K-Lite containers and my stock solution in a refrigerator, but this is probably overkill. A 10% solution is made with, for example, 50 grams of K-Lite plus 450 mL water (I use RO water). You can easily scale this up, but there is no problem dissolving this fairly promptly.

2. 25 mL of this stock solution into 1 gallon of water produces an 85 ppm N final watering solution.
 
In some post somewhere (pretty specific, I know) there was the thought that bacterial growth could occur. Some of the stringy stuff we see occasionally in concentrates might be from bacterial action. That was why I decided to use RO filtered water to make the concentrate and keep it refrigerated. I had an early batch that I didn't refrigerate and after some days I did see some stringiness that I no longer see with refrigerated bottles. Who knows whether any of this matters.
 
I have seen sometimes some fungus etc growing on top of certain of our fertilizer barrels, but don't know if it's from the fertilizer or things that might settle and collect on top of the barrel. It is a pretty dusty environment and some fertilizers don't get used during certain seasons and can sit around a bit. I know that if you leave some fertilizers in the hanging hoses we use, when you do move that water out of the hose it can be pretty smelly
 
Bill Argo recommends a maximum concentration of about 2#/gallon (240g/L) for the MSU RO stuff, so I imagine this isn't much different. However, at that concentration, you can be reasonably assured that the calcium, and maybe some of the mag will precipitate over time. The greater the dilution, the less of a chance.

I would think your 100g/L level would be fine.
 
Note:

I have noticed @ 50 N that my plants have turned very dark green. Lots of new growth... As would be expected this time of year. More than normal? Hard to say as a lot of plant I have, I received last year and earily this year. I will stay that the whole plant from top to bottom is looking very good. I have started to good the "organic" route lately. It to is also a "K-Lite". Smelly!!! Smells like dead fish for a day after watering!!!

I think I may reduce N ppm even more.... I think I'm going to go with 15-25 ppm N every watering.... I may even go lower... Will see! I figure that most epiphytic orchids don't see more than that @ every watering. I have supplemented all my terrestrial plants with organic fertilizers. About every two weeks I water with a bennie tea that has molasses and kelp in it. I think this is the key stone to what I'm doing.
 

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