Initiating flowers?

[Carper]

Hi All,

I simple question. I have quite a few roth crosses and a very nice 4 growth plant that hasn't flowered for 2 years. Is a drop in temperature required, for how long and what is a safe minimum? my ghouse runs at 14c min at night to 21c in the day at present.

Thanks

Gary
UK

 

[SlipperKing]

Try to increase the light in the winter months. Temps don't have much to do with it. Your temp range sounds fine to me.

 

[ehanes7612]

roth crosses, as any mutliflorals can take two to three years to rebloom after their initial bloom (especially if they put out several new starts at the same time)...they may just not be ready and i agree with slipperking...lighting seems to be more of a factor than dropping temps ...these crosses like really good light to bloom... 1500-2000 FC is usually necessary but can appreciate 2500 fc too for a short period ...strong diffuse light or 6 feet (top of plant) under 1000 watts, three feet under 400 watts

 

[Rick]

Yup my roths are in the brightest corner of my GH

light levels are peaking out about 1500FC on the sunny days right now, but in a couple months they will routinely be over 2000 fc. I've measured over 3000 fc before.

If you have a successful spot with Vandas then move your roths under them.

 

[Carper]

Thanks guys,

I've been thinking about this for a while. The light levels aren't great in the UK as it is. In winter they nearly non existent for 3-4 months so it looks like this has got to be a major consideration considering my collection of mainly multiflorals. I feel everything else is right so will be supplementing this fairly soon.

Thanks again

Gary
UK

 

[Rick]

Thanks guys,

I've been thinking about this for a while. The light levels aren't great in the UK as it is. In winter they nearly non existent for 3-4 months so it looks like this has got to be a major consideration considering my collection of mainly multiflorals. I feel everything else is right so will be supplementing this fairly soon.

Thanks again

Gary
UK

Yup I was thinking about this too since I lived in England for a couple of years as a kid. I moved out there from sunny California, got there in early November, and didn't see the sun again until almost April

 

[Carper]

Its great Rick, just wish I could pick up the greenhouse and take it to another country for a few months!

Which brings me to my next question. I have enclosed photos of my small 3m x 3m dwelling and as I have no idea as to supplementary lighting, I would appreciate any suggestions as to possible solutions. I was thinking of hanging downs lights from the ceiling for the top shelves and under for the bottom plants. I was thinking of adding 3-5 hours of light per day during the winter months but I'm not sure of strength etc.

Thanks

Gary
UK

 

[emydura]

I'm not sure I agree that temperature plays no role in initiating flowering in rothschildianum. I think if you grow them too warm you will struggle to flower them. There was a guy here who couldn't get his roths to flower. He dropped his winter temps by a few degrees and he flowered seven roths this year. Having said that, 14oC is well and truly cool enough so that is not your problem.

You aslo have to remember that your follow-up growths will probably be a lot bigger than your initial growth. I know in my roth the 2nd growth is going to be way bigger than the first. It looks like it may flower in the third year.

David

 

[ehanes7612]

I'm not sure I agree that temperature plays no role in initiating flowering in rothschildianum. I think if you grow them too warm you will struggle to flower them. There was a guy here who couldn't get his roths to flower. He dropped his winter temps by a few degrees and he flowered seven roths this year. Having said that, 14oC is well and truly cool enough so that is not your problem.

You aslo have to remember that your follow-up growths will probably be a lot bigger than your initial growth. I know in my roth the 2nd growth is going to be way bigger than the first. It looks like it may flower in the third year.

David

are we talking about roth hybrids or roth species?

 

[emydura]

are we talking about roth hybrids or roth species?

Sorry. I was talking about the species whereas everyone else is talking about the hybrids. My mistake. Therefore, temperature is not that important then.

David

 

[Rick]

Carper

I think the sky's your limit concerning lighting options. Probably need to look at your budget and availability more than culture recomendations.

Personally I'd go for metal halide or high presure sodium options, but T5 flourescents work out fine too. With flourescent lighting the fixture and bulbs need to be closer to the plants to get the footcandles up.

 

[Carper]

Because of the budget, I've got to go for most efficient but also what will also give the plants the most benefit. This is a new subject for me but I do feel it is the most important thing missing from my culture and to get the best from the plants I am growing.

I need to contact local suppliers/specialists and consider all the options. Has anyone had any experience with LED's or are these too expensive? I take from comments made that supplementary lighting should make significant differences in the plants.

What kind of power output is generally used or would be appropriate for my kind of set up.

Gary

 

[Rick]

We just had a presentation at our Society meeting by a company that caters to hydroponic growers. Worms Way

They sell all kinds of lighting systems, but presently they are not happy with either compact florescents or LED systems.

For small indoor setups, I'm thrilled with my compact florescents, but I mean small (3'X3' box). Some people with reef aquariums are getting pretty excited about LED systems, but I haven't heard much from plant growers yet.

Anything for as big as a walkin space like yours I would think would need something with some significant wattage.

Also don't forget reflectors. I've been amazed as to how much light intensity is lost to scatter and walls. Adding even low quality aluminum foil has greatly improved the light levels around my indoor plants. The marijauna growers have really got the indoor growing thing down to a real science, and they love lots of aluminum foiloke:oke:

Have you bought a light meter yet?

 

[Leo Schordje]

At least in the US, LED's so far have been a big disappointment. If you get a properly made bulb, with everything working, it is great. But in the US, all consumer grade LEDs are produced in small job shops in China, where quality control is non-existent. I purchased an LED flood light shaped lamp, and it failed within a week, three replacements within 4 months and still did not receive a lamp that would work for more than 14 days. I will not bother with LED's until they are made in the US, Japan or Germany. The manufacturing quality is simply not there in the Chinese made products and they are not being made in the US, the few US companies selling them have out-sourced the manufacture.

The Sun-Agro HPS (high pressure sodium) lamps were designed to be used as supplemental light for greenhouses in high latitude climates. I have been very happy with my 20+ years experience with these. The 400 watt or 430 watt HPS give good intensity (have flowered Vandas under these in an otherwise dark basement) and the bulbs last up wards of 3 years with serious degradation. High Pressure Metal Halide need to be replaced every 12 months due to rapid fall off of light intensity. So to supplement light in a greenhouse I recommend HPS lighting. The issue of HPS being somewhat heavy in the red wavelengths is compensated for by the natural light that you get during the day in the greenhouse.

Rick's comment about reflectors being important is right on the mark. Check your local brew & grow shop, or pick up a copy of High Times to see the latest in energy efficient reflectors. :evil: