Paph. Yi-Yang Santa Claus

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draymal

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My first paph!

I got it 3 weeks ago and the flower wasn't open yet. It look pretty, but the flower isn't as pink and dark as I expected from the pictures on the seller's website. But it's propagated from seeds, so I guess that's genetics for you... unless it was mislabeled and they gave me the wrong one 🤔


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There are many variables that might effect the quality and depth of color. Temperature, light intensity, fertilizer, can all create an impact.
Even with a mericlone, a genetic duplicate, you can get variation. I think of a picture in a catalog as an example of what you can expect to see, not necessarily what you will see.
 
I found fertilization can have an impact on color intensity in phals, not sure about paphs. Many years ago, I was not fertilizing plants regularly. A phal started opening; inspired, I started to fertilize more regularly. Later flowers opened up with a more intense pink color. Has anyone else noted this? Maybe everyone else is not negligent in fertilizing their plants and has not run into this issue. Clinical trial of 1 and not clinically significant but still intriguing.
 
Well, I went on line and this hybrid is posted with both the color that the ‘poster’ has and a few “vinicolor” forms. Apparently they sent the non vinicolor plant. Or at least the one that arrived was non vinicolor.
 
My first paph!

I got it 3 weeks ago and the flower wasn't open yet. It look pretty, but the flower isn't as pink and dark as I expected from the pictures on the seller's website. But it's propagated from seeds, so I guess that's genetics for you... unless it was mislabeled and they gave me the wrong one 🤔


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I notice the influence of Paph. curtisii in this hybrid. Having checked its parentage, there is supposed to be only 3% P. curtisii in it but the influence on the flower shape and size is obvious. A word of warning: P. curtisii makes a large flower and it lasts very long. Unfortunately, the plants often die off after blooming if you let them flower to the bitter end (it can be close to three months)! I would suggest you let it bloom for about two weeks maximum and then cut it. Otherwise, the plant may be extremely weakened by the prolongation of flowering.
 
I notice the influence of Paph. curtisii in this hybrid. Having checked its parentage, there is supposed to be only 3% P. curtisii in it but the influence on the flower shape and size is obvious. A word of warning: P. curtisii makes a large flower and it lasts very long. Unfortunately, the plants often die off after blooming if you let them flower to the bitter end (it can be close to three months)! I would suggest you let it bloom for about two weeks maximum and then cut it. Otherwise, the plant may be extremely weakened by the prolongation of flowering.
Do you have an idea where I could find infos on that? I searched, but couldn't find anything on the subject.
 
Do you have an idea where I could find infos on that? I searched, but couldn't find anything on the subject.
You won't find anything detailed on the internet about P. curtisii and its flowering characteristics: this is drawn from my personal experience over the years. Most single-flowered paphs should not be allowed to bloom too long on their first flowering. That is also true of the Cochlopetalum multi-florals like P. primulinum. A professional orchid growing friend from Thailand suggested that, if a plant is just a single growth and not too strong, allow it to bloom but cut it and put the flower in water after three days: that way you won't lose the plant.
P. curtisii and its hybrids tend to make big, strong-looking flowers but it is at the expense of the plant. Often when the full flowering is done, the plants fail to produce a new growth. They're finished. If the plant is healthy and not over-stressed by prolonged blooming, there is a good chance it will make a new leaf-fan. You made a good purchase anyway: good luck with it!
 

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