Tigrinum #3 for the season

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Rick

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I think the best for this plant so far too.

I did get pollen from John M into the first flower and getting a good seed pod.



Thought I'd show the roots from the basket setup. Cracks me up there is actually a shelf fungus growing on the basket.
 
You've mastered these!


Thanks Ozpaph, but we'll see how the breeding and new seedlings go over the next few years before I feel like I've mastered the species. With the history below I really feel closer to 50/50.:sob:

I bought this plant (and one other that only recently died) as bitty seedlings from Sheerwood orchids in 2002. Ironically the one that ended up dying was usually the faster bigger plant and got into a slow burn erwinia that whittled it down to nothing over a 5 year span (even with basket culture and low K) :confused:

This plant was doing the typical tigrinum bud blast trip for probably the last 8 years, but after basket and low K really took off and final you see the result.

I'd like to see a handful of seedlings make it to successful blooming over a 5 year span to feel like a master;)
 
Great growing Rick! Even 50:50 with this species is darn good. Are there any other buds coming? The plant looks like it could support multiple blooms. Good luck with the baby tigers!
 
Great growing Rick! Even 50:50 with this species is darn good. Are there any other buds coming? The plant looks like it could support multiple blooms. Good luck with the baby tigers!


The new growths sheath up early in development, so there always seem to be some growths holding sheaths. There was a blast between the second bloom and this one, so the plant is not 100% consistent. It's getting late in the season for tigrinum, but they can hold sheaths all winter. I think Matt Gore was the only grower I remember that had open blooms in Winter.

The other way to look at my culture of this plant is that its culture is virtually identical to my lowii, henryanum, and philipinennse (which I would say are species I've "mastered", and can maintain a stable population of adults and seedlings over the years without ever buying replacements).
 
I'm sorry but I have to say I don't like the color of the media and the stems of this picture.
It just me probably.

Most of us probably aren't used to seeing molds and fungus around our plants.
There is also not a lot of media in the basket so you see a lot of free roots.

It's not attractive but the plant is good in it.:wink:
 
I think it looks great and you can see what's going on in
there. Looks quite "natural" to me. I wish I had the nerve
to bring outside moss into my greenhouse, but bringing in
bugs with it scares me. Do you suppose a soaking with
Orthene might kill live moss?
 
I think it looks great and you can see what's going on in
there. Looks quite "natural" to me. I wish I had the nerve
to bring outside moss into my greenhouse, but bringing in
bugs with it scares me. Do you suppose a soaking with
Orthene might kill live moss?

I've never considered soaking in pesticides so can't make a recommendation on that Angela.

I do have issues with slugs, snails, pillbugs, centipedes, but those pests seem to just walk (crawl) in under the door anyway (without coming in on moss). Just drowning in plain water would probably at least flush them from the moss, and not ruin the moss in the process.
 
I did get pollen from John M into the first flower and getting a good seed pod.

Excellent news!

Rick said:
I bought this plant (and one other that only recently died) as bitty seedlings from Sheerwood orchids in 2002. Ironically the one that ended up dying was usually the faster bigger plant and got into a slow burn erwinia that whittled it down to nothing over a 5 year span (even with basket culture and low K)

What about spraying with ASA solution? Did you try that? Removing the affected tissue, spraying it with ASA and increasing air movement, saves at least 9 out of 10 plants for me. I used to lose 9 out of 10 that got Erwinia. Also, whenever I have a plant that gets Erwinia and it's in flower, I have learned to pollinate one flower and set a capsule. Of course, I also remove the actively rotting tissue, too. Virtually 100% of the time I've done this (about 7 or 8 times), the plant has instantly and completely stopped having issues with rot and it's gone on to produce a nice, fat capsule. I leave them on for their full life and wait for them to split on their own. The act of carrying a capsule seems to have some sort of beneficial effect on a plant's ability to fight off Erwinia rot (hormones?). I have no idea what is the mechanism, I just know that I've saved some very valuable plants this way including Paph. liemianum 'Charlie', Paph. kolopakingii 'Gregory', Paph. palawanense 'Si', Paph. haynaldianum 'Sheila' AM/AOS, and numerous Phrags. I haven't lost a single plant that had Erwinia that I was able to put a capsule on. In the case of the multiflorals, I pollinate one flower and remove all the others, so that the plant doesn't spend any more energy growing and holding flowers; but, it concentrates on maturing the seed capsule and in the process, it manages to stop the rot and outgrow it.
 
I've tried asprin a few times with mixed results (specifically with that plant too).

Nowhere near 90% success rate you've been seeing, but overall my incidence rate of erwinia is way down since cutting K. These days its mostly in brand new plants that haven't seen much of the nutrition regime I use, or some of my very old plants that were beat up from poor previous history (and during hot spells)

I see you have an article that's easily googled on the web John. So I will reread and check on dose regime.

The physiology of salicylic (or acetylsalicylic) acid in the plants natural immunity system is sound and well documented. The use of lemon juice (primarily as a source of citric and malic acids) also contributes to the immunity system via the system that includes those immunity hormones.

I think the one that finally bit it just got too far in the wrong direction to make a(nother) comeback.
 

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