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Stonei 6 growth for sale

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As for symptomology, N deficiency generally shows up first in old leaves. Sulfur deficiency is also a general paling of leaves, but sulfur deficiency gets the whole plant, especially in the fastest growing new leaves.[/

Agreed and the same with P. therefore if you're seeing chlorosis using klite it may very well be the low S. ( if its not the low Mo ) By removing the Potassium sulphate from klite you also removed the highest source of S. Adding MgSo4 may increase Mg too much. FeSo4 has high salinity and you must be very careful with it. So if you want to leave out the K, then course rock Gypsum is the best way to supply S over many months.
 
Agreed and the same with P. therefore if you're seeing chlorosis using klite it may very well be the low S. ( if its not the low Mo ) By removing the Potassium sulphate from klite you also removed the highest source of S. Adding MgSo4 may increase Mg too much. FeSo4 has high salinity and you must be very careful with it. So if you want to leave out the K, then course rock Gypsum is the best way to supply S over many months.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC542055/pdf/plntphys00158-0013.pdf

This paper is real good.

My well water (which I've been cutting into my RO at 10%) has tons of CaSO4. Generally there is lots of SO4 in drinking waters world wide, so this should be a problem for the strict rain and RO users. With just about any fert or Cal Mag type addition the Mg can go up as long as it doesn't exceed Ca, so no problem to add a dash of Mag sulfate to K lite to get back the SO4 to the levels in the old MSU.

Mo in K lite is the same as for MSU. So I'm not going to play with that.

The above paper demonstrates considerable interdependence between sulfur and phosphorus under high light conditions.

So if we are chasing green we are chasing chlorophyll production and destruction more than generalized growth effects and S and P seem to be at the bottom of it.
 
By removing the Potassium sulphate from klite you also removed the highest source of S.

http://www.firstrays.com/MSUFert_RO.htm

K2SO4 wasn't in the original MSU formula nor in the version I got from Robert's flower supply.

All the S in the old (high K versions) were only with the trace metals to start with.

So from MSU to K lite there is no change in SO4.
 
But I guess now that the growth isn't inhibited by excess K (like a flooded carburetor) , the growth rate under light conditions could stand to suck up a bunch more S and P.

http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11274-006-9226-1

This article demonstrates the inhibitory effects of K on photosynthesis and nitrogen uptake in Mycrocistis (pollution tolerant algae). In this mechanistic paper they used KCl and the dose is pretty high. (150 to 320ppm) But in an application paper by Arizona St, they used K2SO4, and got bigger reductions in overall cell growth at much lower concentrations.

So if the eco-relevancy argument holds up, potassium sulfate is a bad source of sulfate for epiphytic plants. Self neutralizing.
 
http://www.firstrays.com/MSUFert_RO.htm

K2SO4 wasn't in the original MSU formula nor in the version I got from Robert's flower supply.

All the S in the old (high K versions) were only with the trace metals to start with.

So from MSU to K lite there is no change in SO4.

Ok so if the S in Klite is also 0.09% and convention says it should be around 1/8 (roughly) of N (1.62% S for 13% N in MSU) then its just too low for RO or rain water. Way too low actually.
 
Ok so if the S in Klite is also 0.09% and convention says it should be around 1/8 (roughly) of N (1.62% S for 13% N in MSU) then its just too low for RO or rain water. Way too low actually.

Exactly. So how come it never seemed to be a problem for the old MSU users?

Unless the high K curtails photosynthesis and nitrogen assimilation to match the low S content ?!?!

As noted my culture program would have leaks of S all over the place. Between the fogging with well water, interment use of mag sulfate, probably plenty in oyster shell, even before I started putting well water back into my RO. You probably have to be a purist to keep from accidentally getting a few ppm of S into your culture from some source.
 
You two are running away with Ed's "For Sale/ Trade" thread! You two need to go play in another sand box!:poke:
 
I would like to add and point out that since using K-Lite and had the same yellowing on my plants I have changed a few things and took a different approach. So I am not completely negative about K-Lite I thought I would try it again. This time I use only rain water and K-Lite. Some people said the problem was water with alkalinity or potting amendments. I still saw more and more yellowing. So instead of using another fert directly into the substrate I started foliar feeding with a high urea fertilizer and still using K-Lite in the substrate. The greening has been nothing short of incredible. Most of my plants have greened up in a few weeks to a month and a half. That way I am not lowering the pot ph with ammonium. Before I had trouble getting good roots also. But now new roots are starting to get alot better. I think the plants are getting more N to work with.
 
Hear hear!:D:D
Just what I did, but I mix them and irrigate with it.
My results were similar. A couple of years ago I reported similar results spraying leaf surface with urea(chemically pure)
B
 
You are right, this thread is corrupted. Someone should start a new one in an appropriate section.
B

What is the point now? Who will by it? His plant obviously has an incurable nutrient deficiency that he cause by giving it too much light.
:sob:

Why does everyone think pale green or yellow leaves are automatically caused by fertilizer applications?

There is nothing wrong with the plant offered for sale.
 
Ed, are you still trying to sell your plant? It sort of looks like it has been requisitioned for the betterment of fertilizer science. I am trying to find someone flying State-side, that will greatly simplify moving the plant/s (if they are still available):confused:
 
Ed, are you still trying to sell your plant? It sort of looks like it has been requisitioned for the betterment of fertilizer science. I am trying to find someone flying State-side, that will greatly simplify moving the plant/s (if they are still available):confused:

its still for sale
 
What is the point now? Who will by it? His plant obviously has an incurable nutrient deficiency that he cause by giving it too much light.
:sob:

Why does everyone think pale green or yellow leaves are automatically caused by fertilizer applications?

There is nothing wrong with the plant offered for sale.

Yes, if you put your plant in direct sunlight for a few weeks it is going to go yellow. I don't think that is even debatable. Given that, I'm not sure what you can conclude about the nutrient deficiencies until it is grown in normal light.
 
Rick asked the LS..30 inches (75 cm)

Given that I have had no problems blooming countless number of multi's ..species and hybrids..i dont think there is a nutrient problem either. I screwed up by giving it direct sunlight, and its pretty obvious if you see the plant up close, there are some older leaves that weren't exposed to direct light that have that nice green color. I also gave a few other plants direct sunlight (but this was the only paph i did this too)..I had one Schromburgkia (i think), that turned yellow on one side while being green on the other , in that same period..my laelias loved it though.

and as i said before , when I grew under lights , I grew them on the high side , they grew and bloomed well, but yellow green..ever since putting everything in the greenhouse, all my plants are putting up leaves that are medium green. Its gonna take a few years for these plants i am keeping to fully integrate into that new lifestyle. This stonei is recalcitrant ..it should have bloomed by now..but I am losing patience with it..i would rather it go to a more appreciative grower who just has the magic touch or whatever..my asking price is what I paid for it 4 years ago when it was a one growth BS plant (it also had a start)..so it having grown like it did for four years (putting on 5 new growths in differing stages)..i think i am doing something right in that department
 

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