Purely Organic fertilizer

[LesChatsJardin]

Has anyone used Purely Organic for their slippers? Is there a formula orchids? I have read an interesting article by Sue Bottoms about it and am wondering if you noticed any differences in your plants? Where did you buy it? The only ones I can find are for lawns and vegetables.

Thanks

 

[Ray]

Whether sourced from organic or inorganic sources, the ions absorbed are identical.

One of the difficult things about organic fertilizers is making sure all the nutrients are available in sufficient quantities. Then there are the costs…

 

[Ray]

I took a look at their products. The granular stuff is not water soluble, so must either leach out over time or be released by microbial action.

The liquid version (13-0-4, of which only 8% of the nitrogen is water soluble), is “corn steep liquor and soy protein hydrolysate”, and the label clearly states “Not for use in Organic Crop or Organic Food Production”.

 

[southernbelle]

I used it, got it from a guy in NC. Keith Davis Keith Davis Orchids (mostly cattleyas) was a big fan and gave the source, but last I heard him speak (about a year ago) he said one of the ingredients was no longer available so the formula is not as effective. It use to produce multiple leads. I still have a lot of it (original formula) but didn’t like to have to put it in the little tea bags. Now there are little black plastic baskets for it (this month’s Orchids mag has them.). So now Keith is recommending the following. He was on UNCs horticultural staff so is very knowledgeable. He will have UNC test stuff sometimes. For instance, they know from testing, that after 3 years Orchiata becomes acidic rapidly. Anyway, here’s what he recommended last:
“ Pro-Mix HP CC
With Mycorrhizae

Fungus colonizes, then causes roots to take up more water and nutrients than they normally can.

⅜-½” layer on top of mix

7 leads on plant (photo) that only had 3 before.”

 

[DrLeslieEe]

Have you tried the ProMix and see more leads?

 

[southernbelle]

No, I’ve not tried it. Apparently it’s the Mycorrhizae that makes the difference. He did mention that Russ Bolt of Looking Glass Orchids in NC pots in it (only potting mixture) because of the number of orchids he has. It allows him to water less. I bought a division, Lc. Mary Elizabeth Bohn ‘Royal Flare’ AM/AOS, from Russ potted in it. It had 12 flowers on 4 spikes when I bought it. After bloom, I repotted it in my mix as I was afraid I’d kill it in that mix by overwatering. It was a bear to clean the Pro Mix out of the roots (8” pot), took me forever and damaged a lot of roots as it was very packed in like old moss in a big box store phal. Roots were healthy, though overall. I was concerned it wouldn’t bounce back because of the extreme repotting trauma. The plant adjusted well over a few months and blooms almost all the time, as it throws a lot of leads. I have 2 flowers now. Usually get between 2 and 4 at a time. But it’s bloomed 5 times since 9/15/2020 when I bought it. 11/20, 6/21, 8/21, 10/21 and now. It’s a very prolific grower (much like C. trianaei semi-alba ‘Kathleen’), hence almost always in spike, but sometimes the leaves curl a bit. All of this might just be indicative of the cultivar. I don’t know. But I wish I could get all the spikes to bloom at once like he did!!

 

[tomp]

I used it, got it from a guy in NC. Keith Davis Keith Davis Orchids (mostly cattleyas) was a big fan and gave the source, but last I heard him speak (about a year ago) he said one of the ingredients was no longer available so the formula is not as effective. It use to produce multiple leads. I still have a lot of it (original formula) but didn’t like to have to put it in the little tea bags. Now there are little black plastic baskets for it (this month’s Orchids mag has them.). So now Keith is recommending the following. He was on UNCs horticultural staff so is very knowledgeable. He will have UNC test stuff sometimes. For instance, they know from testing, that after 3 years Orchiata becomes acidic rapidly. Anyway, here’s what he recommended last:
“ Pro-Mix HP CC
With Mycorrhizae

Fungus colonizes, then causes roots to take up more water and nutrients than they normally can.

⅜-½” layer on top of mix

7 leads on plant (photo) that only had 3 before.”

SB
regarding
⅜-½” layer on top of mix
are saying you add this layer on top of your regular potting mix?

 

[Silverwhisp]

This St. Augustine OS article addresses using ProMix with Cattleyas:
https://staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/TopDressingwithMycorrhizaebySueBottom.pdf

 

[terryros]

I used it, got it from a guy in NC. Keith Davis Keith Davis Orchids (mostly cattleyas) was a big fan and gave the source, but last I heard him speak (about a year ago) he said one of the ingredients was no longer available so the formula is not as effective. It use to produce multiple leads. I still have a lot of it (original formula) but didn’t like to have to put it in the little tea bags. Now there are little black plastic baskets for it (this month’s Orchids mag has them.). So now Keith is recommending the following. He was on UNCs horticultural staff so is very knowledgeable. He will have UNC test stuff sometimes. For instance, they know from testing, that after 3 years Orchiata becomes acidic rapidly. Anyway, here’s what he recommended last:
“ Pro-Mix HP CC
With Mycorrhizae

Fungus colonizes, then causes roots to take up more water and nutrients than they normally can.

⅜-½” layer on top of mix

7 leads on plant (photo) that only had 3 before.”

Deb, I don’t know anything about getting an orchid friendly mycorrhizae mixture! Source was not mentioned?

 

[Ray]

I don't think you'll get a specific, symbiotic "orchid-friendly" inoculant for a couple of reasons - one is that the endomycorrhizae are extremely specific in their symbiotic relationships, so I'd guess that - except possibly for two orchids living together - no two orchids will have the identical relationships, and the second being that they tend to be even more finicky about cultural parameters than the orchids.

That said, I think there are probably multitudes of ectomycorrhizae that could be orchid-friendly, because, while they do not penetrate the orchids to deliver water and nutrients directly into the cells, the mycelia most assuredly form a network that can move them into the proximity of the roots. Even good old Brewers' Yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) can do that.

 

[southernbelle]

Deb, I don’t know anything about getting an orchid friendly mycorrhizae mixture! Source was not mentioned?

It’s Premier Pro-Mix HP CC with Mycorrhizae and is available pretty much wherever Pro-Mix is sold. Our Wal-Mart sells the 3.8 cu ft compressed bales. That is a lot of it but obviously would be the cheapest way to buy it. I used regular ProMix in years past (many) for my outdoor containers (as it’s lighter than soil) with good results. The SAOS article explains what I heard Keith say so now I’m tempted to try it as a top dressing.

 

[Cklinger]

If people are looking into mycorrhizae additives, it might worth looking into products such as VAM which has 7 different types. Despite the instructions on it, you could make a "tea" out of it, putting around 2.5 grams per gallon and letting it bubble for around 45 minutes then water it in. I've watered it into my orchids that I have at the farm, as well as used a whole lineup of organically derived nutrients (Biobizz). Everything looks very healthy, but I wouldn't say I see any striking differences in health between the orchids in my office versus the orchids at home where I just use K-Lite.

 

[southernbelle]

I believe the secret ingredient that was originally in Purely Organic, and for some reason is no longer (that Keith Davis said decreases the effectiveness of it), is green sand. That of course could easily be added.

 

[southernbelle]

On another note, I’m going to conduct an experiment. I will use Purely organic (the original with green sand) on 5 plants that are not known to throw multiple leads and Pro Mix HP CC with Mycorrhizae on a different 5 and see what I get after a few months.

 

[Ray]

I believe the secret ingredient that was originally in Purely Organic, and for some reason is no longer (that Keith Davis said decreases the effectiveness of it), is green sand. That of course could easily be added.

Considering that Green Sand is merely a slowly-dissolving potassium mineral (hence inorganic), I don’t see it being a magic ingredient that could make or break a decent product.

It’ll be good to hear the results of your experience.

 

[southernbelle]

Considering that Green Sand is merely a slowly-dissolving potassium mineral (hence inorganic), I don’t see it being a magic ingredient that could make or break a decent product.

It’ll be good to hear the results of your experience.

Interesting... I'm pretty sure I compared the ingredients of the original and the new Purely Organic. Will see if I can do that again. Ray, about how long do you anticipate it will be before I could assume results were related to any change of using either this or the ProMix?

 

[Ray]

Depending upon what plants and how fast-growing they are, probably a minimum of 6 months for faster-growing plants.

A change that's an addition is much quicker than a change that reduces something.