picture diary of the division of my large Cyp. parviflorum var. pubescens

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smartie2000

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I said earlier this year that I would repot my Cyp. pubescens this fall.
This is the plant this spring : http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16598

I think it has been four years since the first potting. The purpose of the repot was to give more room for the plant to make new growths. The plant was 11 growths last year, and this fall it is 14 growths for the next spring. That was a slow down compared to last year (doubling in size each year). As well, if some of the plant dies for any reason, at least the whole plant won't die since they will be separated plants.

I found the largest pot I could find. It was a nursery pot for a tree, and it is only a 3 inch increase in size. I would go bigger if I could:
DSCN3850.jpg


Dumping off the first layer, I noticed that I added a lot of perlite on the surface initially, or it has risen up over the years because perlite is ligher than sand. Also I did not disturb the orginal potting, from Hole's Garden Centre, which was more organic. Previously the sides of the pot was mainly filled with perlite, aquarium gravel (green was the only color available in my house at the time), sand, dolomite, and some old/decomposed potting soil with old orchid bark.


The roots really grew into the sand mixture, and actually deeper into the pot than I thought. It has been raining basically everyday lately and the medium was wet. but I think it was not too muddy based on the plants performance. If it was too muddy I doubt that the roots would go very deep.


I picture of the roots from behind. I will have to carefully separate growths from the back, because they grow very close together and I do not want to damage them. Also it was a very windy autumn day, so it was important to spray them with water or the roots would dry out.
DSCN3862.jpg


Separating:
DSCN3865.jpg


DSCN3869.jpg


I filled the bottom of the pot with mostly sand and hydroton and some perlite. since I don't expect the roots to grow that deep, I just used something well draining and light (so the pot is not too heavy for easy lifting, hydroton is light)

I tried to keep them at the same level in the pot as before, although it was not perfect. I arranged them into the pot like this:

I'd still like a larger pot, the roots don't have extra space. I may increase the potsize if I find a larger one inthe future, but I probably won't need to break it apart and disturb it much again.

This is a picture of the old medium, everything mixed together because of the dumping, including the old garden centre's media. But this gives an idea of what it looked like.
DSCN3874.jpg


I am reusing the old medium because I did not want to make too much change and stress out the plant. Also I don't see a problem since new medium would have organics with would probably change/decompose as the years go by. Old stuff changes minimally.

I did had to add some stuff to it since the pot is larger. That included more sand, perlite and some hydroton. I also added a small amount of soil from my yard.

And back into the old spot in the ground. The pot still has an inch left without soil on top. This allows me to put leaf litter in it before the winter, and also to protect from heat in the summer. I also dumped the rest of the hydroton on top, it will give a similar purpose. It grows near conifer trees, so pine needles do drop on them. I often clear these out of the pot because naturally Cypripedium parviflorum do not grow near conifers. As well I added a spoon of dolomite lime to balance off the acidic pine needles. A siberian iris (I think) and a daylily does grown in the area too, so it gets good sunlight light.

DSCN3878.jpg


Too bad they don't naturally grow under pines, because the soil there is very rich and composed, if I had the chance and commitment I would plant Cypripedium acuale there since they grow under conifers in the wild.

I hope it will do well next year and still bloom as well. Hopefully it will double up in size now that they are separate and have more room.:D
 
That looks like a very healthy dormant plant you have, all those white roots! Thanks for sharing, can't wait for the update :)
 
Thanks for the picutres! Very well grown! Good luck with it in the future.

It grows near conifer trees, so pine needles do drop on them. I often clear these out of the pot because naturally Cypripedium parviflorum do not grow near conifers. As well I added a spoon of dolomite lime to balance off the acidic pine needles.
Too bad they don't naturally grow under pines, because the soil there is very rich and composed, if I had the chance and commitment I would plant Cypripedium acuale there since they grow under conifers in the wild.

Has this been your experience in Alberta? When I was at the Wagner Bog this year, I saw many yellows growing with conifers. Even here in Manitoba, they do grow with conifers. I don't think Cyp. parviflorum really cares where it grows - it is very adaptable. However, you mention Cyp. acaule, and this is different. It is true, Cyp. parviflorum and Cyp. acaule don't usually grow together, but Cyp. acaule is much more specialized than Cyp. parviflorum. Cyp. acaule typically grows in pure conifer forests, whereas Cyp. parviflorum will grow in mixed forests. I wouldn't worry about the needles in the pot.
 
hi Kevin, it haven't seen enough in the wild. I just didn't think many grew under pines, and the few I've seen were not under pines. (and I think I read somewhere a long time ago that they don't usually grow too close to conifers if my memory is correct)

But I do understand that Cyp. parviflorum can take a wide range of pH
 
Rick, I wanted a large display the next time it blooms, so it all went back into the same pot. But I understand what you are getting to. Of course I think it will outgrow a single pot eventually
 

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