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Phrag. La Hougette 'Kelly Creek' AM/AOS

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MaxC

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Round 2 was last night after the hurricane/tropical storm. In total, I have treated 21 plants and a compot.

Looking at all the plants this evening I saw mites on three plants, two of which had only 1-3 on them. Unfortunately my multi-growth Paph. Dollgoldi still has a lot of these guys. I am moving the Paph. to my bedroom and will continue to treat but the infestation may be too severe to go back into the collection. It is hard to get in every single nook and cranny. That's all for now and counting the days till next Tuesday.

Fight the mites!
 

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southernbelle

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Round 2 was last night after the hurricane/tropical storm. In total, I have treated 21 plants and a compot.

Looking at all the plants this evening I saw mites on three plants, two of which had only 1-3 on them. Unfortunately my multi-growth Paph. Dollgoldi still has a lot of these guys. I am moving the Paph. to my bedroom and will continue to treat but the infestation may be too severe to go back into the collection. It is hard to get in every single nook and cranny. That's all for now and counting the days till next Tuesday.

Fight the mites!
Max, you will win the battle. I’ve read to treat 3 x with one product then change to a different product (with different mode of action) so resistance won’t occur. I think you said your product is systemic which would mean you don’t need to get every nook and cranny. Also, consider at these temps they may be multiplying faster and shorten spray interval maybe to 5 days. When I had these late winter, I only treated with alcohol because I’m growing in indoor room. By the time outdoor temps allowed me to spray outside (I feel your pain of hauling plants out), it looked like all old damage and (I thought) problem was solved. Some new plants came in with apparently the same problem, all Paphs (different vendor, but I did have a few catts with the streaking, too that I attributed to thrips because sheaths/buds were destroyed.). I could see somewhat different (more dispersed not streaks) leaf stippling damage on the new Paphs and kept watching (I think I was in denial because I hate to deal with this), until I swabbed with alcohol on a Qtip. Qtip turned yellow/gold which then under 60+ I could see a critter squirming. I will start to treat this week. I will treat everything on the table whether I see damage or not, as close proximity allows easy spread. Question: what magnifier did you get that you can photograph through. I have one but it’s high power and very hard to focus to get a clear photo.
 
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MaxC

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MacGyver-ed it, I used a jeweler's loupe and put it in front of my phone camera.

These are just nasty little buggers, just in the fact they can go undetected for a period of time and their damage may be attributed to another critter that would likely not be treated with a mite specific treatment.

Not liking that you got them from a different location, I hope we don't see an increase in people having to deal with them.
 

southernbelle

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MacGyver-ed it, I used a jeweler's loupe and put it in front of my phone camera.

These are just nasty little buggers, just in the fact they can go undetected for a period of time and their damage may be attributed to another critter that would likely not be treated with a mite specific treatment.

Not liking that you got them from a different location, I hope we don't see an increase in people having to deal with them.
Pretty creative on the photo, I’ll try that. But you used a 10 power jewelers loupe? I’d never see the ones I have with that. Even with a 35 x loupe almost impossible to see unless squirming from alcohol. I have a 60 x that makes them visible. The literature says they can be 228 microns or .228 millimeter. But, there are several types of flat mites/false spider mites, some likely larger. I realize now, on my cattleyas I likely had both thrips larva which attacked the developing buds which I could see with much lower power and mites which caused the streaks at the crown. On those, alcohol took care if it. I watch all my developing sheaths closely now for any sign.
 

MaxC

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That was with a 25x. My watering time has doubled having to checking for mites. Hopefully we all emerge relatively unscathed and better growers.
 

southernbelle

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That was with a 25x. My watering time has doubled having to checking for mites. Hopefully we all emerge relatively unscathed and better growers.
I never minded spraying when it was on roses and outside. Spider mites, thrips, all the critters were visible to the naked eye, even though tiny. This is a whole different ball game as far as size of critters, etc., makes me wish I had scale or mealy bugs instead!! I have to either use alcohol or don a respirator and cover up to spray inside; or haul the plants up a flight of stairs to outside at a time when it’s not over 80 degrees and not windy!!! And do it in stages of plants at least at 3 intervals. Not something that puts one in a very happy mood which is why I think I was in denial!! Yes, this too will pass. But it does #%?#% the good news is I read that my spray (Avid) takes care of both mites and thrips, so no need to mix chemicals together. Thank God for small favors.
 

southernbelle

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Max, your posts on this have made me hyper-vigilant checking for thrips. Yes, watering takes considerably longer because of what I’m finding. Some beautiful sheaths have many drops of honeydew on them. On cattleyas not usually something I would worry about, as honeydew is common on those. However, my diligent eye today found larval and (my first) adult thrips!!! So far, only alcohol to the rescue, but I also slit the pseudobulb covering and made sure none of the buggers were hiding there. Tells me I have to spray immediately... Oh joy?!? Phrags are separated and I’ve now separated my milts, that I know have mites. I know it is not advisable to do this in general, but at this point with temps around the corner that will prevent me from spraying outside (considering my upcoming surgery), I’m spraying the entire collection with Avid which controls both. I’ll do it every week and alcohol in between for the thrips. We helped each other, brother!! Thanks. Nothing upsets me more than losing those gorgeous cattleya blooms and last year this time I lost 20-30! ?!#%?!
 

MaxC

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I am glad you mentioned the thrips, I was speaking to another experienced grower and they thought it unlikely to have false spider mites. So I reassessed and saw a thrip. I have now sprayed my entire collection in the two rooms and keeping an eye on the third room. I have noticed a severe decline after two applications of Azamax. I ordered a larger bottle for drench treatment tomorrow. My two severely attacked plants had only a few thrips on them after seeing plenty last week. I was looking online and saw people saying Azamax did not work for them, my guess is that they were not doing repeated treatments. So I will do one more application and the drenching, then all I should need is some alcohol for spot treatment. I have some important spikes coming up and hoping I contain this in time.

For the collective, would spraying with alcohol and water impact the effectiveness of my foliar treatments negatively?
 
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southernbelle

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I am glad you mentioned the thrips, I was speaking to another experienced grower and they thought it unlikely to have false spider mites. So I reassessed and saw a thrip. I have now sprayed my entire collection in the two rooms and keeping an eye on the third room. I have noticed a severe decline after two applications of Azamax. I ordered a larger bottle for drench treatment tomorrow. My two severely attacked plants had only a few thrips on them after seeing plenty last week. I was looking online and saw people saying Azamax did not work for them, my guess is that they were not doing repeated treatments. So I will do one more application and the drenching, then all I should need is some alcohol for spot treatment. I have some important spikes coming up and hoping I contain this in time.

For the collective, would spraying with alcohol and water impact the effectiveness og my foliar treatments negatively?
Max, fyi, I use straight 70% isopropyl. Only possible negative is too rapid cooling of the leaves if it evaporates too fast, so I mop it out of the crowns and wipe excess off of the leaves after a minute or so before returning to the lights.
 

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Hi, I somehow wondered into this post I missed. I had the same mite issue last summer ( I think southernbelle and I chatted on this in an earlier thread) and it started up again this summer with a few out of the blue leaf pitting / streaks running the length of the leaves. Mostly Cattleyas and a psyc this year. I have been using this product for mites. And I was ready for them.

AgroMagen (GS420), GrowSafe... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M983TRL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Found it through a friend and I’m comfortable spraying it indoors in the basement growroom. Just wanted to pass this info along Incase anyone is looking for an indoor option as the weather gets colder and you still have to treat. This stuff works. You just Have to keep up the treatment.

I have a dedicated cheap 1 gallon hand pump with a long wand. I load this stuff up, turn off all my fans and fine mist my entire collection once a week with no issues, even on my more ‘sensitive’ carnivorous plants.
 

southernbelle

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Hi, I somehow wondered into this post I missed. I had the same mite issue last summer ( I think southernbelle and I chatted on this in an earlier thread) and it started up again this summer with a few out of the blue leaf pitting / streaks running the length of the leaves. Mostly Cattleyas and a psyc this year. I have been using this product for mites. And I was ready for them.

AgroMagen (GS420), GrowSafe... Robot Check

Found it through a friend and I’m comfortable spraying it indoors in the basement growroom. Just wanted to pass this info along Incase anyone is looking for an indoor option as the weather gets colder and you still have to treat. This stuff works. You just Have to keep up the treatment.

I have a dedicated cheap 1 gallon hand pump with a long wand. I load this stuff up, turn off all my fans and fine mist my entire collection once a week with no issues, even on my more ‘sensitive’ carnivorous plants.
Pete, do you also spray the undersides of the leaves? I’ve always done that even with systemics, even though less important with those. Also, do you use a respirator when you spray? Also the product looks somewhat like a dormant oil spray which usually would not be sprayed above a certain temp. Any instructions re that?
 
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PeteM

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Yes, the long spray wand makes it easy to get under the base of the plant between the leaves and point up towards the ceiling. I feel I get a majority of the under side of the leaves. No respirator. I did the first time then found there was no strong smell and no irritation, with the fans off this stuff seems to stay where you spray it even with the fine mist.
 

southernbelle

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Yes, the long spray wand makes it easy to get under the base of the plant between the leaves and point up towards the ceiling. I feel I get a majority of the under side of the leaves. No respirator. I did the first time then found there was no strong smell and no irritation, with the fans off this stuff seems to stay where you spray it even with the fine mist.
Since it’s oils is there a residue left on benches?
 

PeteM

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It’s actually a white milky substance that is the consistency of pepto bismol when it comes out of the bottle before diluted. I don’t see any hard oily residue. When it dries it’s slightly tacky.
 

Just1more

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Hi, I somehow wondered into this post I missed. I had the same mite issue last summer ( I think southernbelle and I chatted on this in an earlier thread) and it started up again this summer with a few out of the blue leaf pitting / streaks running the length of the leaves. Mostly Cattleyas and a psyc this year. I have been using this product for mites. And I was ready for them.

AgroMagen (GS420), GrowSafe... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M983TRL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Found it through a friend and I’m comfortable spraying it indoors in the basement growroom. Just wanted to pass this info along Incase anyone is looking for an indoor option as the weather gets colder and you still have to treat. This stuff works. You just Have to keep up the treatment.

I have a dedicated cheap 1 gallon hand pump with a long wand. I load this stuff up, turn off all my fans and fine mist my entire collection once a week with no issues, even on my more ‘sensitive’ carnivorous plants.
 

PeteM

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I wish. This does not work on scale. It might offer some protection on new scale establishing but definitely does not kill existing scale. Here is how the label reads.
  • KILLS SOFT BODY INSECTS ON CONTACT-Only effective on spider mites (two-spotted mites, broad mites, russet mites), whiteflies, aphids, powdery mildew and downy mildew.
  • OMRI LISTED-Contains all-natural and organic food-based ingredients for organic gardening that is non-toxic and safe for humans, pets, bees, ladybugs and other beneficial predators.
  • UNIQUE OIL EMULSION-Our unified and stable oil blend is better and safer than other oils for plants. It mixes easily with water without separation and does not burn or suffocate the leaves, affect the plant’s development or change the fruit’s taste or flavor. It can be used from seedling up to last day of harvest.
 

alex.sorensen51

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I got the soft scale with repeat sprayings with Wilson's one shot Ant and Roach.It doesnt bother my paphs ,cattleya,and phrags
 

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