Phrag. besseae culture tips invited

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Camellkc

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After conquering the hardest multi-floral section in paphiopedilum (actually it is not as tough as what I hear so far:)), I am going to touch on phragmipedilum. While I do not have any problems on caring my few hybrids so far, I have recently acquired a besseae in bloom as one of my collections.

As far as I know, besseae love wet very much, it requires lighting intensity similar to the paph. multi-floral section but a cooler temperature. Of course, large daily temperature difference also helps a lot.

With a view to satisfy the known requirements on besseae, I use spagnum moss as the sole growing media, with few styrofoam pieces putting at the bottom of the pot. The plant is always put onto a humidity tray for maintaining the humidity. For it to obtain the beneficial morning sunlight as much as possible, it is put near the eastern edge of the green house and sunlight can penetrate to the growing rack from both on the top and at the side of the green house. The duration of morning sunlight is around 3-4 hours during the winter time and 1-2 hours more during the summer time. I water it at a 3 - 4 days' interval to make sure the spagnum moss could always getting wet.

Apart from the above, what should I need to pay attention in order to cultivate this collection properly? Comments and suggestions from you all are now invited.

Thank you in advance for all your help! :rollhappy:
 

troy

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Camelllkc, I would like to know a little more about you're conquering multis please?
 

Camellkc

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Camelllkc, I would like to know a little more about you're conquering multis please?

I am not sure whether my definition of "conquering" is same as yours. :rollhappy:

So far, over 90% of my paphs are multiforals, with species and hybrids portioned around 8:2 respectively. During the past year, none of them have gone to haven (I think it is a bit lucky anyway) and most of them are happy to put out new growths on the matured mother plant. Of course, the anitums inside my green house are happy to putting new leaves, though the growing speed is slow.

As noticed from their behavior, I am quite sure that they seems adapt to my culture methodology and happy to live inside the green house. I expect most of them will get the first flowering or re-bloom in the spring of 2016.

Just for your information and any criticisms are welcome.:poke:;)
 

Linus_Cello

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I don't know what the tap water is like in Hong Kong, but soft water (like rain or distilled water) would be better than water high in minerals and salinity. At least that is my understanding for bessae (I only grow hybrids of bessae).
 

Camellkc

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I don't know what the tap water is like in Hong Kong, but soft water (like rain or distilled water) would be better than water high in minerals and salinity. At least that is my understanding for bessae (I only grow hybrids of bessae).

Thank you for your advice. It is believed that the water tends to be soft instead of hard here.
 

Paul

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Hi, I have good results with my Phrags besseae, growing them with the highest humidity, medium shade and cool temperature at night (15°C the whole year). they like moss in the medium, low salts, plenty of water and I put 2cm pure expanded clay balls at the bottom of the pot to make it stand in the water after watering. They like the same fertilizer as Paphs, quite high in nitrogen compared to K (at least 2 for 1) at low rate.
 

Camellkc

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Hi, I have good results with my Phrags besseae, growing them with the highest humidity, medium shade and cool temperature at night (15°C the whole year). they like moss in the medium, low salts, plenty of water and I put 2cm pure expanded clay balls at the bottom of the pot to make it stand in the water after watering. They like the same fertilizer as Paphs, quite high in nitrogen compared to K (at least 2 for 1) at low rate.

Thanks Paul. Your suggestions have been helpful! I have heard others state that besseae likes bright light very much but you suggested that it should be grown in medium shade. Is that besseae can tolerate a large range of light intensity? Moreover, it is a bit hard for the temperature to get 15 degree Celsius at night round the year, in particular for summer months, due to the sub tropical climate here, though the green house is equipped with water and fan cooling system.
 

troy

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I have 2 bessea hybrids growing well in cattylea light, and I beleive camelkc, a happy growing multifloral with good roots and correct light and temp to bloom is conquering, keep us posted on bloom pictures
 

Leo Schordje

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I've been growing and flowering besseae for over 25 years. Some years I do better than others. I have learned a few things.

Besseae will tolerate and bloom in a range of light conditions, Camellkc your light conditions sound fine. They will bloom with more shade but also will grow a little slower. They will take up to maybe a half day of direct sun, with morning sun being the best.

I have bloomed besseae even when night temperatures never got below 18 C, in warmer temps colors will be more orange, in cooler temps the color will be more red. Same plant will look quite different between summer blooms and winter blooms. They are adaptable, and will survive. Avoid temperatures over 30 C if at all possible, or make sure on those days the nights get significantly cooler.

Water - I routinely keep my pots of besseae setting in a tray or saucer of water, even when potted in nothing but sphagnum moss. The water is at least 1 to 2 cm deep. They really like constant moisture at the roots. If your leaf tips start to brown, they need more frequent water. Even with them standing in a tray of water I still water the pots every 3 to 5 days. I flush the trays of water to fresh water each time I water the pots. All habitat descriptions included descriptions of them growing on steep near vertical slopes, in mosses, adjacent to streams, with water running constantly past their roots. If the media is just moist enough for Paphs, it is too dry for Phrags. If I were you, I would add trays for water under the besseae pots. I like individual trays for each pot, rather than one large tray. The individual trays will lessen the chances of a water-born disease spreading from plant to plant should you be unlucky enough to encounter such.

Otherwise, your growing conditions sound great. Good Luck.
 

Camellkc

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I've been growing and flowering besseae for over 25 years. Some years I do better than others. I have learned a few things.

Besseae will tolerate and bloom in a range of light conditions, Camellkc your light conditions sound fine. They will bloom with more shade but also will grow a little slower. They will take up to maybe a half day of direct sun, with morning sun being the best.

I have bloomed besseae even when night temperatures never got below 18 C, in warmer temps colors will be more orange, in cooler temps the color will be more red. Same plant will look quite different between summer blooms and winter blooms. They are adaptable, and will survive. Avoid temperatures over 30 C if at all possible, or make sure on those days the nights get significantly cooler.

Water - I routinely keep my pots of besseae setting in a tray or saucer of water, even when potted in nothing but sphagnum moss. The water is at least 1 to 2 cm deep. They really like constant moisture at the roots. If your leaf tips start to brown, they need more frequent water. Even with them standing in a tray of water I still water the pots every 3 to 5 days. I flush the trays of water to fresh water each time I water the pots. All habitat descriptions included descriptions of them growing on steep near vertical slopes, in mosses, adjacent to streams, with water running constantly past their roots. If the media is just moist enough for Paphs, it is too dry for Phrags. If I were you, I would add trays for water under the besseae pots. I like individual trays for each pot, rather than one large tray. The individual trays will lessen the chances of a water-born disease spreading from plant to plant should you be unlucky enough to encounter such.

Otherwise, your growing conditions sound great. Good Luck.

Thank you for your professional information! Actually, I use independent water tray for each plant but not a large one for many. Here is the example.
IMG_6191_zpsfs8a88fz.jpg


And you are absolutely right! Warmer temperature makes the flower more orange in color. :rollhappy:
 
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