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For me, as an indoor under light grower, LED lights have markedly reduced heat production and allowed the lights to be higher over the plants (because they are focused). Each of these is an important contributor to better growing. The economics are complicated as you are balancing greater upfront costs against longer term savings with the LED.

Issues of the spectrum of light, etc with LEDs cause all kinds of controversy in these forums, but we can just say that many LED users have been able to grow and bloom most types of orchids. After two years, I am quite happy to have gotten rid of all of my fluorescent and compact fluorescent fixtures.


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Longer life, no decreasing radiation power, lower electrical consumption ( however last is not significant in a smaller GH, eg. a T8 "18 W" LED tube picks up about 8-10W from electrical net., depending tubes). For plants you can choose directed emission tube, so there is no need mirrors. Light emission is a little higher, a T8 18 w Hg filled tube can radiate 550 lm, a similar T8 LED tube can give out 800 lm.
 
LED lights are very good in use because these kind of lights have a great advantages like these are available in different kind of varieties , easy to install, cheap and produce less heat as compare to other lights.
 
BUMP

Has anyone used the screw-in bulbs for slippers? If so, how far from the foliage are you keeping it?

I just bought one to take to work (since they refuse to give me a desk remotely close to a window) and would like to bring a paph or phrag in to keep me company.

Thanks,
--Stephen
 
I've been using six of these lights for around a year and a half now. You can see my setup in the attached files. Even with light guards around the top of the table, these cast quite a bit of light.

I was a windowsill grower before this, and from that perspective the difference is astonishing - everything grows like gangbusters under there. :) My phals and AVs and slippers bloom easily, vanilla vine is moving on 8ft long, my noid Cattleya finally made a bud (though it blasted) - etc. I'm not an expert grower or anything but I'm really pleased with this setup.

Heat is not an issue (top of the table gets warm but not hot after running for 14 hours in the summer) and it doesn't suck up tons of power.

Hope your site finishes its construction work soon, Ray - I want to buy more lights for my indoor pond in the basement. :)
 

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What about freshwater aquarium lights?

Not sure if they're much different. I haven't seen any 'aquarium' labelled light that was less than 7000K colour temp. And any specialty application lights will be much more expensive than general purpose lights.

You can get a very good spectrum with a combination of cool and warm white LEDs. Ray's lights also have some red diodes added, but overall, I think they are skewed too much towards the blue. I wish they were more powerful, they're only effective about 30 cm above the plants.
 
Not sure if they're much different. I haven't seen any 'aquarium' labelled light that was less than 7000K colour temp. And any specialty application lights will be much more expensive than general purpose lights.

You can get a very good spectrum with a combination of cool and warm white LEDs. Ray's lights also have some red diodes added, but overall, I think they are skewed too much towards the blue. I wish they were more powerful, they're only effective about 30 cm above the plants.

This one has 6500 K (the unit is probably overkill for orchids):
http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-su...d-plant-lighting-system-with-timer-18-24.html

Marineland Aquarium Plant LED... 1 watt 6500K White LEDs. 3 watt RGB LEDs that provide 460nm blue, 660nm red and green accent lighting.
 
This one has 6500 K (the unit is probably overkill for orchids):
http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-su...d-plant-lighting-system-with-timer-18-24.html

Marineland Aquarium Plant LED... 1 watt 6500K White LEDs. 3 watt RGB LEDs that provide 460nm blue, 660nm red and green accent lighting.

It doesn't give the overall wattage of the fixture. But even if it's 20 W total (I doubt it's that much), I could put it together for less than $25, timer included. If it is, in fact, only 1 W, it's overpriced by a factor of 13 - and that's only because a timer costs $10.

I guess aquarium lights are very underpowered - sea plants don't get much light, so artificial lighting needs to be subdued. Another reason why aquarium lights are not suitable for orchids.
 
It doesn't give the overall wattage of the fixture. But even if it's 20 W total (I doubt it's that much), I could put it together for less than $25, timer included. If it is, in fact, only 1 W, it's overpriced by a factor of 13 - and that's only because a timer costs $10.

I guess aquarium lights are very underpowered - sea plants don't get much light, so artificial lighting needs to be subdued. Another reason why aquarium lights are not suitable for orchids.

I think the wattage depends on the length of the unit (see Product Manual & Instructions of the below link). Also, wattage would be relatively low since these are LEDs (for example, it appears the smallest unit has total wattage of 27)?

http://www.marineland.com/Products/...led-aquarium-lighting-for-aquatic-plants.aspx

Actually, water plants need to be pretty strong since there is so much absorption/reflection/refraction in the water, especially for the tropical plants.
Yes, this is probably overpriced. Would be curious how you can make your own unit for orchids that can be water-resistant for aquariums/terrarium setting.
 
I'm about to put together two light fixtures, one for a terrarium. I will post detailed photos in a separate thread.

They're moisture resistant, but not immersible. To make them immersible, you would need to encase the entire unit in a clear sealed enclosure. Not necessary in my case.
 
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