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ehanes7612

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basic frame design of new greenhouse, 12 x 15 at base , 10 feet high in middle...going to skin most of it with polycarbonate 4ml. will build a base of treated wood (4 foot high) around the bottom perimeter (except where the door wall, the side facing the viewer).this should prevent it from moving around with the wind. The door side will be all wood....to cut down on morning and early afternoon sun and the need for shading. and of course will need shading cloth ,but only on south facing arch. the west is shaded by trees
costs:
80 for pvc piping
200 for polycarbonate skin (4ml)
150 for treated wood
50 for 6ml plastic to insulate
20110513150429.jpg
 
This will be interesting to see the outcome. My concern is sealing the overall structure so it doesn't come apart in high winds. How do you propose to attach polycarb to such a flexible frame in order to prevent blow through of the individual sections of polycarb? Is the polycarb flat or is it corrugated? How will you anchor the structure and keep it from moving in wind?
 
This will be interesting to see the outcome. My concern is sealing the overall structure so it doesn't come apart in high winds. How do you propose to attach polycarb to such a flexible frame in order to prevent blow through of the individual sections of polycarb? Is the polycarb flat or is it corrugated? How will you anchor the structure and keep it from moving in wind?

anchoring the structure with the wooden base perimeter (explained in that paragraph before the picture)...next door neighbor has similar greenhouse ...polycarbonate is easily anchored with screws but i have to drill the holes(tedious), the polycarbonate is probably the best way to skin a greenhouse..its very sturdy (corrugated)...and it comes in 8 foot sheet x as long as you want it, so i will only need two strips of it. the greenhouse will need cross supports like walls of a room but those easy enough to add on..i just dont know where i want those yet
 
but the polycarbonate is really only for an exoskeleton and the sturdiness it provides....the sealing will be with a 6ml plastic wrapped in between polycarbonate and pvc piping.
 
but the polycarbonate is really only for an exoskeleton and the sturdiness it provides....the sealing will be with a 6ml plastic wrapped in between polycarbonate and pvc piping.

My old GH was a pvc frame, and screwing the polycarb to the pipe really does make the sytem strong enough to withstand strong winds (as long as you have a heavy base wall around the structure). I used 3 stacked railroad ties.

Make sure you use rubber backed fender washers to back up your screws on the polycarb.
 
Lookin' good.

We had a similar structure for summering plants outside in summer in Chicago. Really did the trick. I do see duct tape on your joints- a word of warning, if that's your "glue" think again. I tried it and it didn't hold up more than a couple weeks until the sun and moisture took away its stickiness. Use legit PVC cement and primer or drill holes through the joints and pipe and use pins or nuts & bolts. I also agree that corrugated polycarb panels are easy to work with. Plan ahead and get the right decking screws (for use with a drill) and you'll have that puppy glazed in no time.
 
I used to have this type of structure before, but the frame was made of 1" GWI (Galvanised Wrought Iron) with a 600mm "leg" in the ground and wind braces tying each section together. Had to make a door and windows (timber frame) as well, which was rather tricky.
Love to see your final product. Good Luck.
 
My old GH was a pvc frame, and screwing the polycarb to the pipe really does make the sytem strong enough to withstand strong winds (as long as you have a heavy base wall around the structure). I used 3 stacked railroad ties.

Make sure you use rubber backed fender washers to back up your screws on the polycarb.

thanks!!
 
Lookin' good.

We had a similar structure for summering plants outside in summer in Chicago. Really did the trick. I do see duct tape on your joints- a word of warning, if that's your "glue" think again. I tried it and it didn't hold up more than a couple weeks until the sun and moisture took away its stickiness. Use legit PVC cement and primer or drill holes through the joints and pipe and use pins or nuts & bolts. I also agree that corrugated polycarb panels are easy to work with. Plan ahead and get the right decking screws (for use with a drill) and you'll have that puppy glazed in no time.

yeah.. me and duct tape go back a long ways(along with vice grips)..its just temporary...designed it so i could remove the duct tape without adding glue once the skin is attached...drill holes ..neighbor used prefab design he bought ..it has bolts...so i will stick with that
 
I used to have this type of structure before, but the frame was made of 1" GWI (Galvanised Wrought Iron) with a 600mm "leg" in the ground and wind braces tying each section together. Had to make a door and windows (timber frame) as well, which was rather tricky.
Love to see your final product. Good Luck.
i have wind breakers to the south(house) and west(trees/fence) of me..the trees also create a dead zone in the immediate area..so i am not too worried...but i do understand how planes get their lift so i will take precautions just in case :D
 
very exciting. will really cut down on your electricity costs during summer.

yeah, although our electricity is cheap (and mostly from renewable sources)..i still have trouble with the bill, will take all summer to catch up from our unusually cold winter here in seattle
 
I've been tempted to build one like that off the back of my house, but the hurricanes that blow through here every few years scare me out of it. I'm on a hill and that is the exposed side of the house over looking a broad valley. The other side is protected by the small ridge line. Hurricanes tend to track northeast and as they exit the trailing winds change direction and wallop everything on that side...scary when that happens!

Good luck with your project.
 
polycarbonate is easily anchored with screws but i have to drill the holes(tedious),

Unless you need your screw heads flush, use self tapping screws with hex heads. You can chuck up the appropriate size nut driver bit in your drill, and drive them right in without a pilot hole.:wink:
 
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