Neofinetia falcata 'Seibotan' mounted on arock

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Jaljala

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Neofinetia falcata 'Seibotan' mounted on a rock

The success (until now...) of my other Neofinetia in S/H inspired me to try this mount with a small bean leaf form : Seibotan (I bought this plant labeled like this, but I have a doubt about the name because I read that Seibotan has rough texture leaves, mine doesn't, and some pictures online don't fit with mine)

The mount is a block of red lava rock (very porous), sitting in a saucer filled with half an inch of clear water (no fertilizer) and some live sphagnum moss. The lava rock wicks the water up to 2 third of its height (10 inches), which is good because the top of the rock stays dry between spraying, and this is where I installed the Neofinetia a month ago.
Prior to mounting the Neo, I installed some moss of various species growing spontaneously on other orchid mounts, and had the setup running for a month to test the watering, wicking, etc. I also mounted a few sundew (Drosera adelae) and butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris and a mexican Pinguicula)
The moss is growing very well, and the Neofinetia is also starting to look happy, but it's been only 3 weeks...

here is the results :

July 23rd: Neofinetia newly mounted on the rock with moss already growing well


IMG_26323 by Jaljala photography, on Flickr

August 12th : Neofinetia well established and moss are growing fast :)


IMG_27198 by Jaljala photography, on Flickr


IMG_27206 by Jaljala photography, on Flickr


IMG_27211 by Jaljala photography, on Flickr


IMG_27217 by Jaljala photography, on Flickr
 
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It's truly lovely! :clap: You may find this setup to be too moist for the roots which are in contact with the wet portions of the lava rock once growing slows or comes to a halt during the winter months. The quickest way to kill a Neo is to rot it with too much water. I would advise spritzing your Neo plant with a dilute fertilizer solution from time to time. I would advise against making quick assumptions that your plant is not in fact Seibotan. Photos online often do not match the plants we have in our collections for reasons such as individual growing conditions and the maturity of the plant. It may also vary somewhat depending on whether or not the plant is a true division or a seedling. Given time your plant may begin to strongly resemble the classic appearance of Seibotan. Already I can see some influence of Seibotan in your plant here. :)
 
There was a guy in Flushing, NY who had thing likt that, i am going to get some more Neos and try this, Where can i get live sphagnum moss!?!? Thanx.
 
Thanks Jorch!
Eric : you can get live sphagnum either online on websites selling carnivorous plants, or terrarium supplies, or if you find some in the wild... but it may be hard to find in NYC !!! I don't think the sphagnum moss is necessary, but it looks great !

Lanmark, thank you for the advices. I plan to remove the water from the saucer and just spray the rock occasionally during slow growing and resting season of the Neo. Without this reservoir, the lava rock dries-up quite quickly so I think I should avoid root rot.

I have another Neofinetia (the one in the recent post 'Tougen' ?) which is growing very well in semi-hydroponic, where the roots grow in very wet environment between clay pellets -see picture below- there is alway one inch of water in the bottom of the pot, except in winter when I don't let any water. New roots have to be growing prior to moving a plant into this system as they will adapt to a wetter environment, while old roots that grew in regular medium will die.
So I figured in semi-hydroponic works for this one, the lava rock has good chances to work too... future will tell me !


Neofinetia falcata by Jaljala photography, on Flickr
 
In winter the pellets (expanded clay) are almost dry. they evaporate very efficiently, and I do not keep water in the reservoir. There are 2 little holes an inch above the bottom of the pot- you can see one the the pic far left 2 pellets from the bottom- so when I water I pour a lot on the top of the pot to fill it quickly, and the drainage holes do their job and only one inch of water stays at the bottom (that is the reservoir), allowing the wicking during the next days.
If I empty this reservoir, the wicking still goes on until most of the pellets are dry (takes a few weeks), and this is what I do in the fall before cold temperatures. I keep the plant in a room around 45 degrees F in winter

I repeat : do not try to convert a plant to this system if it is not growing NEW roots, as the old ones having grown in a dryer environment would die when being suddenly in this very moist pellets. Only brand new roots will adapt and grow in th it, eventually they go all the way down to the reservoir and grow in the water !!! I forgot to mention that during the growing season I use a solution of 125 ppm N to water (it is the S/H technique developed by Ray at www.firstrays.com).
 
I tried that with a Neo and it definitely did not like it. I was new to the method and I may not have moved it at the right time. I would like to get another one and try again.
 
Jean, I have seen pictures of Paph growing very well on a 'green wall', on a french orchid forum, they are called 'mur vegetal', and are built with horticultural felt suspended vertically, and irrigated permanently (Inpsired by Patrick Blanc's living walls). The plants grow with no media, the roots just grip on the moist felt.
 
Thank you Hera ! Long time ago I have seen a Japanese website with lots of Neofinetia mounted on rocks, in the typical miniature gardens arrangement way. That was my initial inspiration, unfortunately I cannot find this site anymore...
 
Jean, I have seen pictures of Paph growing very well on a 'green wall', on a french orchid forum, they are called 'mur vegetal', and are built with horticultural felt suspended vertically, and irrigated permanently (Inpsired by Patrick Blanc's living walls). The plants grow with no media, the roots just grip on the moist felt.

Ok thanks!!!! I have books of P. Blanc's living walls, those are most impressive :drool: !!!! Jean
 
In winter the pellets (expanded clay) are almost dry. they evaporate very efficiently, and I do not keep water in the reservoir. There are 2 little holes an inch above the bottom of the pot- you can see one the the pic far left 2 pellets from the bottom- so when I water I pour a lot on the top of the pot to fill it quickly, and the drainage holes do their job and only one inch of water stays at the bottom (that is the reservoir), allowing the wicking during the next days.
If I empty this reservoir, the wicking still goes on until most of the pellets are dry (takes a few weeks), and this is what I do in the fall before cold temperatures. I keep the plant in a room around 45 degrees F in winter

I repeat : do not try to convert a plant to this system if it is not growing NEW roots, as the old ones having grown in a dryer environment would die when being suddenly in this very moist pellets. Only brand new roots will adapt and grow in th it, eventually they go all the way down to the reservoir and grow in the water !!! I forgot to mention that during the growing season I use a solution of 125 ppm N to water (it is the S/H technique developed by Ray at www.firstrays.com).

Interesting...it makes sense though since summer rains can keep these quite wet. The winter dry off is something that most folks probably don't do enough of - of course also keeping the humidity high. You've got me thinking of new ways to try these though...thanks!
 

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