Mealy bugs, scale and aphids oh my!

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
well, lorax you bring a good point perhaps I should delete my email and then ask people to pm me, but how can I do that? I looked but there seems to be no function I can use.

Thanks for the help with the pics. I am not totally illiterate, but I don't have much ram/memory and i am worried about pop ups etc. from photobucket. I'm afriad I need to beef up some security on my comp before I brave those programs. My last comp is completely dead because of spam and pop ups. so sad!

Anyway, I am praying it isn't mosaic virus! Pray, pray, pray!

Tell me what you guys think when the pics are up.

Bluefirepegasus
 
Ask an Administrator to delete your e-mail address. I'm sure if they can they will.

I'm sitting on a 1T hard drive that I am using all of maybe 80 GB and most of that is all photos so no problems. Can't help you in the beefing up of security deal. I get help when it comes to anything that is the "C" word as in computer.

Here are two photos you sent me. I resized them so people on dial up wouldn't be struggling as bad. They are your Vanda-

Vanda2.jpg


Vanda.jpg


editing to swap out plant names
 
Last edited:
hey! they look great except the three together are oncidium and the top two are the vanda. I must have mislabeled them.

One person said it might be bacteria on the oncidium and thai disease on the vanda. She suggested claries 333. What is that and what do you think?

Bluefirepegasus

Thanks again lorax!
 
Sorry, I added them the way you labeled them and wasn't even paying attention it was so late. I will go and correct that for you right away!
 
don't be sorry lorax, it was my mislable! Thanks for doing this for me. You are super sweet.

Bluefirepegasus
 
I doubt that this is mosiac virus, if it is then I have it too! Oncidiums can sometimes be challenging. Overwater & they rot, the roots can't take up water & the bulbs shrivel .........underwater & the bulbs shrivel, so which do you have? That new bulb looks fine, so it looks like it's been corrected. It's my understanding that once you have black spots on old growth it doesn't go away because you corrected the culture. I was given an oncidium to 'rescue' that looks like this. It was originally potted in LFS, after blooming the previous owner repotted it in a pot twice the size, just adding a rock/bark mix around it. What was pretty pitiful, is looking pretty good, so don't give up yet!
 
unless you have citrus mealybugs, crypts won't be terribly effective as the long tailed don't lay their eggs in cottony masses where the crypts lay their eggs.
i don't think that it's too cold to use lacewing larvae inside unless your growing area is in the low 50's...
there's a place called critter creek labs that does orchid virus testing....
 
Critter Creek labs runs like $4 per test. IMHO the plants may not be worth testing if they're easily replaceable or nonames. If you can replace it with a brand new one for $8-$10, then it's probably not worth the $ to test them. They may recover or may not, but I tend to chuck weak or nasty looking plants unless they're rare and worth my time to resusitate. Many oncidium types get this spotting for a few different reasons, though virus is always possible since many virused plants don't express it in the leaves. So, do you want to test or go on a shopping excursion?
 
They're located about 45 mins. from me. Here's what you do(from their site).

Use a clean (sterile) cutting tool for each plant sampled. THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT.
This is to protect your plants. The easiest way to transmit viruses is via contaminated cutting tools. We recommend using a new single-edge razor blade for each plant.

The blades can be reused after using one of the following methods:
# Heat in the oven @ 400 F for 3 hours
# Brush with soapy water and then soak for 15 minutes in saturated TSP or 1% lye solution
# Brush each blade in a 10% Clorox solution.

We prefer a 2 - 4 inch piece from the youngest fully developed leaf. For a large plant, select from 2 – 3 parts of the plant. We have also used flowers, green button root tips, and if a section of the plant has disturbing symptoms, send a piece of that also – especially where green borders a necrotic (blackened) area.

Place each sample in a heavy-duty plastic bag (i.e. zip-loc freezer bag). The reason we ask for a heavy-duty plastic bag is that we grind the samples in these bags. Lighter weight bags tear more easily when grinding. Don’t use paper towels or paper envelopes for samples as these allow samples to dry out or bleed across and contaminate other samples.

On the outside of each bag write an identifier of some sort—1-20, A-Z, 1050, etc. We prefer numbers or letters, but you can use names if you need to. Don’t put paper or plastic in with the samples. Who knows what kind of contaminates go in with them.

If you get any sap on your hands while handling a sample, wash in soapy water before handling the next plant.


And here's the pricing list:
The GREENHOUSE SCREENING PROGRAM offers you the chance to take advantage of ELISA's noted accuracy and our many years of ELISA experience for a very nominal fee. Samples can be fairly small and will be tested in a single well for each virus.
Prices for Greenhouse Screening
$5.00 each for 1-9 samples
$4.50 each for 10-20 samples
$4.25 each for 21 or more samples

For more valuable material and particularly for material to be used for meristemming or for stud plants, we recommend DOUBLE WELL ELISA. Each specimen is tested separately in 4 different wells-2 for each virus.
Prices for Double Well ELISA
$6.00 each for 1-9 samples
$5.50 each for 10-20 samples
$5.25 each for 21 or more samples

We will redo any questionable material before making our report, but if results are not conclusive, we will ask you to send fresh material in three weeks for retesting (without charge). If no retesting is necessary we should have a report to you within five business days of receiving the samples. We can mail, fax, or e-mail the results. Please send a check with your samples.
For Masdevallias and other allied genera, BYMV (a member of the poty-virus group) has been found in considerable occurrence.

Prices for BYMV test
$4.50 each for 1-9 samples $5.00 each for 1-9 samples double well
$4.00 each for 10+ samples $4.50 each for 10+ double well


The greenhouse screening testing is the general one that you'd use unless testing masdies.
 
Well, I am happy to hear that for the oncidiums people are agreeing that it isn't mosaic virus. What do all of you think about the vanda pictures? Does that look like mosaic virus to you?

Thanks for the lab info. I am going to do some more research and then if I think I have mosaic virus I will certainly send off. They are plants I want to keep so thank you everybody!

Keep the advice coming!

Bluefirepegasus
 
Is the vanda potted? I'm wondering what the roots look like? Are they able to take up moisture/nutrients? I doubt that it is a virus, it looks similar to the oncidium, which would be telling me something in your culture is not quite right for this plant. They generally like it warm-hot & humid (but Roy has already shown it can be grown!).
 
Bluefirepegasus, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but vandas aren't the best choice for indoor, beginner growers. Most vandas require at least 4,000 footcandles of light, high humidity and are very picky about temperature compared to many other types of orchids. I have seen a few people successfully bloom vandas in the house under supplemental lights, but even then there are fewer and smaller blooms on them compared to those grown outside in the tropics or in a g.h. You simply may not have the correct culture for it to thrive. For instance, I've got them at the tippity top of my g.h. in high light where they are submerged in fog from my fogging unit in the summer. They don't tolerate temps much below 55 degrees without sulking and are prone to fusarium and leaf drop when they are unhappy. Are you able to meet those general conditions?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top