K-lit after 6 months

[dodidoki]

I don't now how, but obviously works. I red Rick's article carefully and modified a little: I use weaker cc K-lite but with every waterings ( about 100 ppm total).
As you can see, main effect is excessive root forming, only one side effect appearing algees, but harmless.

Anitum:
I got it 9 months ago, only suffered till this timme. Now I noticed not only new root forming but a new growth emerges at base!



Intaniae:
I got it with that anitum, now it produced a nice new growth with roots.



Violascens:
hard to grow and keep it alive, roots are extremely sensitive and die quickly. I got it 6 months ago, when I started to use K-lite, established with nice new roots.

Vittatum:
I got it about 15 months ago, almost died, someone said that if I had a real vittatum, I will realize it, because it will die within few months. Now you can see it produced very nice, shiny leaves with characteristic yellow stripes, and I ccould take pic olny in its place because I couldn't remove ( roots grow into seramis)

Effects on catts:

Someone said that K-lite won't work at catts, because they are faster in growing so there would be K-deficiency symptoms on catts. I can't see that, only see, that my aurea is in sheath, it happened 2 years ago, as I can remember.Trianaei alba has 3 new growths, rosita has very large dormant( I mean waking) eye.

 

[dodidoki]

Rosita:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

[gonewild]

Good observations. Thank you for the report.

 

[TyroneGenade]

Very encouraging!

 

[Brabantia]

Beautiful results! Do you use a seaweeds extract simultaneously with the KLite fertilizer?

 

[dodidoki]

Beautiful results! Do you use a seaweeds extract simultaneously with the KLite fertilizer?

I only use RO / rain water with K-lite, nothing more.

 

[SlipperFan]

Good work, dodidoki!

 

[NYEric]

Thanks for the updates.

 

[eggshells]

A+ effort dodi doki. But I am more curious about the anitum and intaniae? Where did you get them and have you bloomed them before? I have a couple of intaniae and it looks exactly like your leaves. I haven't bloom them yet but I am always curious if its true intaniae. As you probably know, there are rare as f***. Will post some pics later.

 

[dodidoki]

There were few vendors who offered them in Germany, I bought from one of them. I know, rare, never bloomed yet, anitum I have a bigger one, intaniae I have just only one. Now I'm happy to see that all established, I think I have to wait for blooming is at least two years.

 

[Brabantia]

An other paper which confirm the phylosophy of Klite Here
and this one will certainly interest Rick Here...unfortunately I have no access to the full text.

 

[Ray]

If anyone can get these, please share!

 

[gonewild]

I think this is the same document but I don't have time to read it now...

http://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/BF00011066.pdf#page-1

 

[get]

thanks for share!
Fantastic results, i´m trying to learn about these method, and i find a study that i think is very similar with the same results:
http://www.google.com/patents/EP1030555A1?cl=en

 

[The Orchid Boy]

I've heard the same thing, that K-lite won't work with catts. Good to hear it works. I've been using it with the few that I have and they seem good as ever. A little off subject but, anyone heard of using low or nitrogen free fertilizer with catts when in bud and bloom or else they'll blast??? I know I've found this to be false but has anyone ever heard of it?

 

[Rick]

I've heard the same thing, that K-lite won't work with catts.

It works great with mine, but I only have about a dozen (so that's annecdotal).

But I'm glad we have folks coming up with more papers and exploring on their own!

 

[Stone]

An other paper which confirm the phylosophy of Klite Here

Please explain how that confirms the Klite philosophy? It has been known for ages that too much K can induce Ca and Mg deficiency. So can too much ammonium and so can low pH and so can high humidity in certain situations.
Not trying to debunk but to understand.
dodidki's results have been also been achieved using ''normal'' fertilisers. Remember that fresh bark has enough K in it for at least 1 year without needing to add much more. So every time you repot you give the plant fresh K. Kelp also has plenty of K. So I still see no ''proof'' but I really want to!

 

[dodidoki]

Please explain how that confirms the Klite philosophy? It has been known for ages that too much K can induce Ca and Mg deficiency. So can too much ammonium and so can low pH and so can high humidity in certain situations.
Not trying to debunk but to understand.
dodidki's results have been also been achieved using ''normal'' fertilisers. Remember that fresh bark has enough K in it for at least 1 year without needing to add much more. So every time you repot you give the plant fresh K. Kelp also has plenty of K. So I still see no ''proof'' but I really want to!

Yes, maybe you have right, God knows, maybe it is more difficult problem than we thought.
You wrote that bark contains enough K. Maybe. But in this case normal fertilizer adds so much K to this, that there will be TOO much K in the pot. So if you would like to grow an orchid in bark, you have better to decrease K level in fertilizer.
On the other hand, if you grow an orchid in pure inert anorganic media ( eg. only in clay balls), you have to give more K.
Another problem, if you see the label of a normal fertilizer, you can see that many of them don't contain any Ca or Mg. We try to replace it with oyster shell, lime or dolomite, but these can supply only very few-if any- soluble ions for plants. I think K-lite works not only, because there is very low K in it, but because contains more Ca and Mg.

 

[emydura]

Kelp also has plenty of K. !

Mike - In the fertiliser I use it says it it contains 19% Kelp and Fulvic Acid but only 0.45% K. Would you question that?

 

[Stone]

Yes, maybe you have right, God knows, maybe it is more difficult problem than we thought.
You wrote that bark contains enough K. Maybe. But in this case normal fertilizer adds so much K to this, that there will be TOO much K in the pot. So if you would like to grow an orchid in bark, you have better to decrease K level in fertilizer.
On the other hand, if you grow an orchid in pure inert anorganic media ( eg. only in clay balls), you have to give more K.
Another problem, if you see the label of a normal fertilizer, you can see that many of them don't contain any Ca or Mg. We try to replace it with oyster shell, lime or dolomite, but these can supply only very few-if any- soluble ions for plants. I think K-lite works not only, because there is very low K in it, but because contains more Ca and Mg.

Most nursery plants are raised in bark mixes with no Ca added in the fertilizer but only as dolomite/limstone added to the mix pre-plant. This supplies enough Ca and Mg for good growth over at least 1 year. Long -term you would need to add more. It very much depends on how fine the limestone used is. Limestone has a fixed solubility therefore a range of particle grades is used to give both quick and long term supply. You wil get almost no Ca or certainly not enough if you use anything much above 2mm particle size. And if you only use 2mm you will need to add a lot. Of course you can replace this by using Calcium nitrate and Magnesium sulphate as they must do in hydroponic systems. Or a combination of both like most of us do.
The first 2 paragaghs on this paper (page 257) are interesting. It suggest that at very low concentrations there is no toxic effect from any ions regardless of the ratio.http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1469-8137.1914.tb05755.x/pdf
Another good reason to lower ALL nutrients when we feed our orchids!