Help with leucochilum.

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MarioQ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2020
Messages
120
Reaction score
277
Location
Xalapa (Veracruz, Mexico)
After 8 months focusing my growing on Paphiopedilum, I have my first problem. First I thought it was sun burning, now I see that it comes from inside. This plant has two new growings, the younger one looks fine. I think to cut the infected one and wait what happens. I really appreciate your advices. Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • C62C15EA-C9C7-4FF3-A7B3-E5AAB11272D9.jpeg
    C62C15EA-C9C7-4FF3-A7B3-E5AAB11272D9.jpeg
    310.2 KB · Views: 34
  • F64A87C6-78BE-4E2A-BA7E-2BFC64D523DB.jpeg
    F64A87C6-78BE-4E2A-BA7E-2BFC64D523DB.jpeg
    281.1 KB · Views: 35
I would repot it and cut the infected shot as deep as possible and spray all parts with a fungizide. That may not be state of the arts but in such cases I tend to be overcautious...
Fingers crossed!
 
I would repot it and cut the infected shot as deep as possible and spray all parts with a fungizide. That may not be state of the arts but in such cases I tend to be overcautious...
Fingers crossed!


Thank you!
I've already cut infected growth. The plant is healthy. It could have been some bacteria, stagnant water, it was very specific in that inner part of the leaf, that could have grown more and then to be more dramatic. I sprayed with a fungicide and transplanted it to a new medium. The roots are in perfect condition and the situation did not come from the main stem. I checked the cut shot and the base was healthy, and more, I think there was a tiny bud coming, which tells me that the formation of the buds starts I would say that 4 months before one sees the flower. It's wonderful. Now I guess the energy from the whole plant will go to the younger shot in the opposite of the plant.

Again thank you! I hope that all will be ok, I love this leucochilum.
 

Attachments

  • FFB03ED9-B2E2-47B7-A852-684D9A4D4D5A.jpeg
    FFB03ED9-B2E2-47B7-A852-684D9A4D4D5A.jpeg
    107.3 KB · Views: 15
  • 21D6CE69-994A-4337-BD3C-7E7338DA346A.jpeg
    21D6CE69-994A-4337-BD3C-7E7338DA346A.jpeg
    148.7 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
Just venturing to observe that to me it looks like the plant has been sprayed a lot (?) I think you're treating the effects of a deeper problem. Even the leaves of the previously bloomed growth look tough and pitted. I wouldn't say that the new growth looks particularly good either. It's tight and yellowed. Overlighting seems likely, and very possibly over-feeding and/or a water quality problem. I note that the particularly affected leaf has died from the tip back. That's a hint that salts are accumulating in the foliage. Looking closely at the new growth, one can see that there are already problems with puckering and drawing into itself. Definitely repot if you haven't already. Reduce light, stop any feeding and evaluate your water. [Disclaimer: I'm just going on what I see. I have no idea of of your cultural practices, successes and failures, etc. If you feel I'm completely wrong, please be gentle - I'm only trying to help]. Good luck!!
 
in this group old shoots just die , I see it with bellatulum, concolor, godefroyae.....
are you sure about a disease?
I just tear this leaves out by hand

and I agree with masacio , adjust growing conditions and avoid overdoing
 
Do you have a bit of air circulation near your plants? Stagnant non moving air is not good for orchids in general. I think repotting and getting a salt meter to check your water quality is important. Not sure what your night temperatures are? Cold nights, water in the crown and lack of air movement will spell trouble!
 
Just venturing to observe that to me it looks like the plant has been sprayed a lot (?) I think you're treating the effects of a deeper problem. Even the leaves of the previously bloomed growth look tough and pitted. I wouldn't say that the new growth looks particularly good either. It's tight and yellowed. Overlighting seems likely, and very possibly over-feeding and/or a water quality problem. I note that the particularly affected leaf has died from the tip back. That's a hint that salts are accumulating in the foliage. Looking closely at the new growth, one can see that there are already problems with puckering and drawing into itself. Definitely repot if you haven't already. Reduce light, stop any feeding and evaluate your water. [Disclaimer: I'm just going on what I see. I have no idea of of your cultural practices, successes and failures, etc. If you feel I'm completely wrong, please be gentle - I'm only trying to help]. Good luck!!

Thank you! and great advices that I appreciate a lot. Yes, I repotted. I have my paphios growing on a east windowsill, with direct sunlight from early morning to noon. Maybe too much sun, I've noticed that a barbatum is not so tessellated in the new shoots, which I think is too much sun. Isn't that right? As I used to grow cattleyas outdoors, if I wanted quality flowering, the amount of lighting was very important, but now with window growing, I am a little lost. Watering twice a week. Each watering I fertilized, super diluted. Maybe I should alternate one watering with fertilizer and another not. I open the window every morning to get it through the air and close it in the night. Now the temperature is from 11ºC (night) to 24ºC (morning). Humidity 70-75%. Water is good, soft, not hard. Overall I see that they grow very well. But of course I'm getting to know this genus since months ago.

Any comments I will thank you very much.
Mario
 
in this group old shoots just die , I see it with bellatulum, concolor, godefroyae.....
are you sure about a disease?
I just tear this leaves out by hand

and I agree with masacio , adjust growing conditions and avoid overdoing

OK! I cut the whole shoot and repotted. And as you say I must avoid overdoing.

Thanks!

Mario
 
Do you have a bit of air circulation near your plants? Stagnant non moving air is not good for orchids in general. I think repotting and getting a salt meter to check your water quality is important. Not sure what your night temperatures are? Cold nights, water in the crown and lack of air movement will spell trouble!

Oh, yes, I open the window all day long. Water is ok, no hard, and I watering early morning twice a week. Temperature is from 11ºC (night) to 24ºC (morning). Humidity 70-75%. I need to adjust all the conditions and still observing to know more this genus.

Thank you!
Mario
 
Oh, yes, I open the window all day long. Water is ok, no hard, and I watering early morning twice a week. Temperature is from 11ºC (night) to 24ºC (morning). Humidity 70-75%. I need to adjust all the conditions and still observing to know more this genus.

Thank you!
Mario

I think your night temperature of 11C is a bit to cold. Maybe about 15-17C at night would be better.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top