Quantcast

Food for paphs and phrags?

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

Noah Arthur

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2019
Messages
18
Reaction score
3
Hey orchid people! My first post here. I just got my first orchid a couple weeks ago. I was immediately hooked, and now I have five of them, including a stunning Paph maudiae-type in bloom and a Phrag 'Betheva' in spike...

Most of the slipper care info I've found online is pretty straightforward, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what to feed them. Is it true that paphs and phrags need different fertilizer formulations? The info I found says that paphs need 30-10-10, and phrags need urea-free 20-10-20. :-/

Also... Will a couple hours of direct sun in the evening harm the paph and/or phrag?

Thanks!

Noah
 

abax

ST Supporter
ST Supporter
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
11,183
Reaction score
299
Location
Kentucky zone 6B
Concerning Phrags., I use K-Lite from First Rays and have been very
pleased with the results. I'm far too lazy to mix up my own fertilizer
and K-Lite can be used at 1/4 tsp. per gallon right out of the
container. In addition, it doesn't turn to mush like Peter's, for
instance.
 

abax

ST Supporter
ST Supporter
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
11,183
Reaction score
299
Location
Kentucky zone 6B
Not particularly that Peter's. I used to use Peter's products a long
time ago, but found that it did turn to mush in my gh no matter
how I tried to protect the container. K-Lite doesn't do that with
minimal protection of the jar.
 

troy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2014
Messages
6,398
Reaction score
131
Location
no hatred!!
I got a 25 lb. Bag of jr Peters Jack's 15 -5-15 cal mag professional xl and 3/4 of it absorbed water in water tight special containers lol.. dammit!! I doubled up on airtight containers and put it in my closet, I have some left
 

troy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2014
Messages
6,398
Reaction score
131
Location
no hatred!!
I threw it out, maybe one of the chemistry major members could chime in on this thread, hopefully!!! To validate whether it is still useable or not... there are quite a few members here
 

Ray

Orchid Iconoclast
Staff member
Moderator
ST Supporter
Joined
Jun 9, 2006
Messages
3,405
Reaction score
312
Location
Oak Island NC
For the most part, the fertilizers we purchase are blends of inorganic compounds, so from a chemical standpoint, if they get wet from absorbed humidity, there is nothing wrong with them.The problem is accurately mixing them.

If you work with mass per volume, you're out of luck, as there is no way to know just how much water it contains. If you're a volume-per-volume (tsp/gal) user, you're probably OK, as the water doesn't add all that much, so if anything you might underdose a slight bit, and that won't hurt anything.
 

Silverwhisp

ST Supporter
ST Supporter
Joined
Apr 22, 2016
Messages
199
Reaction score
62
Location
Wisconsin Zone 5b
For the most part, the fertilizers we purchase are blends of inorganic compounds, so from a chemical standpoint, if they get wet from absorbed humidity, there is nothing wrong with them.The problem is accurately mixing them.

If you work with mass per volume, you're out of luck, as there is no way to know just how much water it contains. If you're a volume-per-volume (tsp/gal) user, you're probably OK, as the water doesn't add all that much, so if anything you might underdose a slight bit, and that won't hurt anything.
Thanks, Ray. That’s helpful.
 

troy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2014
Messages
6,398
Reaction score
131
Location
no hatred!!
I 2nd that statement above, thanks!! I should not have thrown it away, I thought it had molecular binded
 

abax

ST Supporter
ST Supporter
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
11,183
Reaction score
299
Location
Kentucky zone 6B
I pitched it because it pissed me off. Peter's doesn't warn the
buyer that the fertilizer absorbs moisture.
 

cnycharles

Peloric keiki
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
9,499
Reaction score
68
Location
elmer, nj
I think most calcium intensive fertilizers will start collecting water as soon as you open the bag. There’s nothing wrong with it other than it’s harder to measure. If you have a tds meter you just measure your concentration like you would normally. Add some to bucket, measure, add more if needed
 

Stone

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Messages
5,403
Reaction score
116
Location
Victoria Australia
I threw it out, maybe one of the chemistry major members could chime in on this thread, hopefully!!! To validate whether it is still useable or not... there are quite a few members here
Not a chemist but it's not the fact that it absorbs water that's the problem, it's the precipitates that could form. Dissolve some in a glass of water and if it all dissolves in a short amount of time it should be fine to use. If some particles form and stay at the bottom of the glass, the fertilizer will no longer be what is on the label.
 

Stone

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Messages
5,403
Reaction score
116
Location
Victoria Australia
(perhaps 1/4 strength for some)
The info I found says that paphs need 30-10-10, and phrags need urea-free 20-10-20. :-/
Noah
Pretty much nonsense. I am nursing a number of large phrags at the moment for a friend who is moving. One is a huge multi growth award winning caudatum and the other an as-yet un-flowered multi-growth kovachii amoungs others.
The owner uses a 22-5-18 with the N about 20% ammonium 20% nitrate and 60% Urea. 1/2 strength once/week. He uses the same for Paphs and everything else.(Perhaps 1/4 strength for some would be in order) Now and then (not very often) he will give some Cal nitrate and some ground limestone. This remains the best (but not the only) way to feed orchids IMO. (not including the delicate types) With all due respect to k-lite users, that has well and truly been debunked and should be relegated to the trash-heap of history.
 
Last edited:
Top