Finally,I bought the pesticide

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Hien

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I went to Home Depot for something else, but I saw a pesticide bottle from BAYER called BAYER ADVANCED.
it has the ingredient imidacloprid. I remembered that Candace & a few of you mentioned it (I did not get the bag for grubs, since it is a big bag)
it has 1.47% imidacloprid plus slow release fertilizer.
Hopefully, I can stop the mealies & those other weird insects (I think John M said they are thrips) from killing the rest of the plants.
My question is that how do you use this stuff with Hydroponic. The label says dilute the stuff and pour to the root zone.
Does anybody has experience using the systemic pesticide w/ hydroponic ?
 
Yes, I've mentioned it....good luck, as I've not had success using this product. It's only got 1% Meriti(imidacloprid) in it. Compared to the 75% Merit in Merit75. Maybe someone who's had success with it can help you. There are a couple of people here that use it. If you have mites don't use it at all, though. Merit75 is a systemic contact spray, so you don't need to get it in the root zone. Another reason I prefer it, because since I also grow in s/h I don't want the roots bathing in the stuff.

Can you return it and buy the Merit75? www.rosemania.com
 
1% is what is loved by gesneriad growers for mealie control. I've used Bayer Advanced with success on orchids against mealies, but it did nothing for scale. (And definitely don't use if there is any mite issue.) I haven't used it with hydroponics, but essentially it needs to be in the root zone for at least 30 mins (in my experience) for it to be soaked up by the plant. For bark/CHC mixes, I used it two waterings in a row and counted that as one application.

As it's taken up with water, it will have most effect on areas of the plant that are growing (using water) and will have little or no effect in old areas like on old pbulbs. So... it's not a very effective tool for many types of orchids. In my opinion, of course.
 
If your collection is as small as mine (about 300 adult plants). I think the 1% should work out fine.

I use the Rose and Bloom version which is premixed Merit in a spray bottle, and I move around the GH with it when I find mealies and scale. It gets'em on the plant I find them on with a couple of applications, and then I usually have to be diligent about finding them on plants a few over a few weeks later. It's still mostly control, but much better than alcohol or oils.
 
Does the Bayer Advanced have a bad, strong smell?

-Ernie

Rick
I will take the picture of the container tonight
Ernie
I didn't open it yet, I want to ask everyone's opinion first.
But, tonight I will open it, and see if I can smell anything.
 
Here are the photos of the bottle
 

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sorry to be a spoil sport but after reading the label, i'm sorry to say that i think the way you want to use it in not appropriate for the chemical you got. you would have done better with a pesticide that is a systemic but could be applied to the leaves.
the label says that it should not be applied to water logged soil but also says to be careful not to water in a way that there is runoff for the first ten days.
another thing is that i have never found imidacloprid to be too effective on thrips....
 
I use safer or other sprays to kill the thrip larvae in the medium [they love wet conditions]; otherwise I just smash any I see flying around -SPLAT!
 
good luck making a decision.

The Tree and Shrub is the version I used for a while. (I then had a problem with mites and stopped using imidacloprid on most things. I use a granular form for gesneriads still.)

No run-off is important initially because the plant must have time to take up the chemical. (A tree will take longer than a li'l orchid.) Also, imidacloprid is harmful to fish and such, so no run-off is good in that sense too.

If you have a thrips problem, something else might be better for that.....
 
good luck making a decision.

The Tree and Shrub is the version I used for a while. (I then had a problem with mites and stopped using imidacloprid on most things. I use a granular form for gesneriads still.)

No run-off is important initially because the plant must have time to take up the chemical. (A tree will take longer than a li'l orchid.) Also, imidacloprid is harmful to fish and such, so no run-off is good in that sense too.

If you have a thrips problem, something else might be better for that.....

Do you mean that this stuff makes the mites' population explodes?
 
There's a study that found a significant increase in fertility of mites. I can't find it right now (typing on my phone) but I think it has been posted somewhere here before as well.

I've only seen the one study tho - anyone have an update?
 

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