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Cymbidium goeringii-Mid January Flower buds update.

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jokerpass

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Cymbidium goeringii-Mid January Flower buds update. Most C. goeringii (Japanese varieites) in the collection, the flower buds are getting fatter and just starting to elongate from the base. All the flower sheaths are white to pale pink and the flower buds are hard and juicy so that means that they are all alive and should produce the correct colours. They should bloom out in 6-8 weeks.

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Tom-DE

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Exciting! Would you reveal the plant source? I have been wanting to try this cym., especially the one with the orange flower.
 

jokerpass

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Purchased directly from Japan. They don't speak of word of English, everything is done in Japanese over email and phone. If you live in Canada, Flora Peculia can get Japanese C. goeringii for you. He has the permits to bring them back for me. He can get any varieites you want. I only collect orange flower varieties, the next step is to collect the multi-coloured varieites (orange petals with green borders). I will get these kind next time when there is an opportunity to get them from japan. Due to Covid, I cannot purchase any right now.
 

Tom-DE

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I am in US, so that is no good for me. Thanks
 

jokerpass

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You should be able to get some from Satomi (Seed Engei). I know that she receives a shipment of C. goeringii from Japan once a year in the spring. The Kasahara doesn't grow C. goeringii but I know their source, it is a respectable vendor in Japan. I have seen many wrong varieites people purchased in the US and they don't bloom true to their varieties.
 

jokerpass

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MoraniWine: Buds are initiated in the middle of the summer, not in the fall when there is cool nights. These cool fall nights...etc for bud inducton is wrong. By the fall, it is already too late to induce the buds. Once the buds are induced and they are grown about 3cm-5cm, I cover it with aluminium foil cap (around mid October). Then here are the rules:

green flowers (all Chinese varieities): No Cap is required.

Purple flowers: No Cap is required

Orange, Yellow, White: cap it until 2 weeks before blooming in the spring.

Red: the cap is removed anywhere between mid Dec to mid January, depending on the variety. This you have to ask the vendor, specifically for the clone.

From mid Dec, C. goeringii are grown between 0C-10C at all times (no higher and no lower) for an extended period of time. It is called vernalization. During vernalization process, this is when the buds start to grow and getting fatter. By mid January, the buds should get very fat and the flower stem should start to elongate. This is also the time to check if the capping works, at this time, you should start to see the flower petal colours through the flower sheath.
 

MorandiWine

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MoraniWine: Buds are initiated in the middle of the summer, not in the fall when there is cool nights. These cool fall nights...etc for bud inducton is wrong. By the fall, it is already too late to induce the buds. Once the buds are induced and they are grown about 3cm-5cm, I cover it with aluminium foil cap (around mid October). Then here are the rules:

green flowers (all Chinese varieities): No Cap is required.

Purple flowers: No Cap is required

Orange, Yellow, White: cap it until 2 weeks before blooming in the spring.

Red: the cap is removed anywhere between mid Dec to mid January, depending on the variety. This you have to ask the vendor, specifically for the clone.

From mid Dec, C. goeringii are grown between 0C-10C at all times (no higher and no lower) for an extended period of time. It is called vernalization. During vernalization process, this is when the buds start to grow and getting fatter. By mid January, the buds should get very fat and the flower stem should start to elongate. This is also the time to check if the capping works, at this time, you should start to see the flower petal colours through the flower sheath.
Thank you!! I had some budding at the proper time and capped them with foil, like a loose fitting hat, and left others uncapped. Almost all the capped ones died. So sad
 

jokerpass

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MoraniWine: From mid Dec until mid March, the temperature in the growing space is always between 0C-10C (not higher and not lower) 24/7. With 50%-70% humdity, with fans 24/7. This is like an Asian Winter. Cold and humid. I barely water them in this low temperature. I only grow all C. goeringii in the traditional/standard Japanese Cymbidium Mix only, nothing else, and no substition. When you water, not a single drop of water can get on the buds; otherwise, they will rot. If you don't have the temperature and humidity, the flower buds will abort, especially the Japanese and Korean varieites. Japanese and Korean varieities are more delicate than Chinese varieites. Also, Japanese and Korean varieites must be grown at the low temperature; otherwise, they will abort. I know people who are able to grow and bloom Chinese varieites well (from central to southern China) but failed to grow and bloom all Korea and Japanese varieties. Chinese varieites are more robust and can tolerate a "higher" temperature in the winter than the Japanese and Korean varieites.
 

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