Definitely a fan of aclandiae. I clearly recall the first time I saw aclandiae was in artists illustration ---- in a small little book ----- called 'orchids a golden guide'. This was before I had even started growing an orchid of any kind. I never foresaw that I would even be able to see a 'real' one, let alone acquire some.
DLE - in the tropics here ------- I grow them in scoria - 10 to 15 mm average diameter pieces. Pretty sure they could be grown in other sizes too. The humidity here is alright ----- not too low most of the time, and they have no problem at all with their roots getting temporarily dry. I use all plastic pots for all my orchids here. All opaque ones, non-see-through.
Humidity is generally ok over here in my part of the world. So the method I use is sort of like described in this image attached. Even though the pic is shown with smaller diameter scoria pieces that I might use for some phals ------ I don't use smaller pieces for regular size catts.
And - depending on the conditions, there is also the option to spray a certain amount water (how much we apply is own choice) closer toward the plant (ie. closer toward the centre of the pot). Certainly - everyone has their own methods of watering. So this pic is only just to show what I do in my part of the world. The bulk of my orchids are grown under a balcony. So the orchids pretty much never get rained on, unless the wind (during rainy times) blows so hard, that the rain blows into the growing area.
There's also a choice for pot size (diameter and depth). I have some catts growing in really large pots --- relatively wide diameter, and relatively deep. So when I water in the way conveyed in the pic, under generally good humidity conditions, the catts are generally fine with it. Although - for some catts that generally have thinner bulbs (such as some mini-catts, including aclandiae) ------- I can certainly spray some water toward the centre of the pot ----- no problem at all. The idea is to allow roots to get adequate moisture - without drowning (under relatively wet conditions for 'too long' ----- particularly avoiding very 'relatively cold plus very wet' for relatively long periods of time).
Also - absolutely not necessary to need to spray water all-around the outskirts of the pot. The other pic just shows how we can choose where we dump most of the water (such as if we use a water sprayer nozzle). The water doesn't necessarily need to always to be added evenly to regions around the pot.
Fertilising (relatively weak) --- once a month. And mag-cal application --- once a month. I figure that some of that stuff stays in the media. So whenever I do water again, then the plants can somehow still get something from the media. And - having various roots a little moist in the media at various is good (as the fertiliser and/or mag-cal needs to get in at least of the time).
Many thanks for kind words.Leslie, I grow my aclands in 25 mm pure orchiata bark.Iput them just under the roof of my gh, they get much light, i give sprayed water every morning but they must dry out completely till afternoon.They get 500 uS balanced fertilizer every watering, once per week in summer, once per month in winter.From fall i reduce spraying, they are tend to rot if they can t dry out till evening.
Istvan, these are lovely flowers.
I also think this is a true C. aclandiae. I read the describtion of this species in one of my orchid books and can find all traits of C. aclandiae in your flowers. At any rate she is within the variation of this species, at least in my eyes.
It's possible that the flower just hadn't fully opened up and coloured up at the time. This sort of orchid usually has light green-coloured/chartreuse tepals when they open ------ at least in general I think. And maybe as they age ----- gets yellow-brown maybe.