Building a basement growing room

Slippertalk Orchid Forum

Help Support Slippertalk Orchid Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If you’ve got a way to collect and store rainwater, I’d go with that, and not be too concerned about contaminants.

It will likely be a bit acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide and maybe air pollutants (not as big of an issue as it once was), but carbonic acid is very weak, so the moment you add anything to the water, it is immediately overwhelmed. Your biggest issues will be algae and bacteria, but an opaque tank and a splash of bleach or Physan will take care of them.

If you’d like to get a solid understanding of your water chemistry, head over to the J.R.Peters Lab website and request a sampling kit.
I agree with you about algae and bacteria. I live in the woods and have a lot of tree droppings on the roof. I'll pass the rain through a sponge filter for large contaminants but the small stuff will grow algae in the totes. I could paint the totes to prevent sunlight. Polyethylene plastic doesn't take paint very well but maybe an epoxy paint will stick. I'm not a fan of bleach because of chloramines, maybe a 10 micron poly spun cartridge filter will do. I don't think it matters if some bacteria pass through. I recall that the smallest algae particles are around 7 microns and it's probably OK if some pass through. I will check out J.R. Peters Lab, thanks for the reference.
 
Your range of 65-75 is perfect for bulldog Paphs. I grow mine in this range, and they grow and bloom fine.

No need to go lower, and doing so will more likely cause problems such as slow growth and bacterial/fungal infection.
Justin, I’ll try them at the same temps as Maudiae even though the books say they should be lower. In that case my rubber lined trays only need to be a couple inches deep, which will be easier to build.
 
Dave Va, have you considered your light set up so far? I built a very cheap LED light set up for three
benches in my greenhouse that costs me less than $75.00 and has been doing very well for three or
four years. All it takes a a bit of 1" x 4" lumber, some wiring and sockets...perhaps a timer for
lights on/off. I use a timer, but since your grow room is in your basement, your might not need the
timer.
 
If you really want an authoritative book oh everything paphiopedilum look at Guido Braem’s book ‘The Genus Paphiopedilum’. It’s pricey but I just bought the 3rd edition. I have the first edition from 2012 if you’d like to borrow it. It just would not have the latest species. But still authoritative, I think for your needs. Trust me, your temps are fine. Paphs of a few types are the things that grow effortlessly for me in my conditions. As long as I don't overwater them. We’ll talk about other things like making sure they get enough oxygen when you visit.
 
Abax, I must admit that I am afraid of making electronics. I'm so bad at that kind of stuff that I always buy the same cell phone as my kids so they can download apps for me and solve my problems. Same with programming, I am a dinosaur when it comes to new computer techniques. When people talk to me about cloud storage I look up at the sky.
 
Last edited:
If you really want an authoritative book oh everything paphiopedilum look at Guido Braem’s book ‘The Genus Paphiopedilum’. It’s pricey but I just bought the 3rd edition. I have the first edition from 2012 if you’d like to borrow it. It just would not have the latest species. But still authoritative, I think for your needs. Trust me, your temps are fine. Paphs of a few types are the things that grow effortlessly for me in my conditions. As long as I don't overwater them. We’ll talk about other things like making sure they get enough oxygen when you visit.
Thank you. I got several paph books from the 90's and 80's on amazon and was very disappointed. The section on culture was not more than just a few pages. That was a waste of money. I haven't heard of Braem before but yes I'd enjoy borrowing it for a short time.
 
Dave, All you need: outlets of the normal sort, LED full spectrum bulbs, regular coated
wiring to reach outlet and simple sockets for each bulb. Cut the 1x4s the length to be determined by your
space. I use eight for a 6' bench. Drill holes in the 1 x 4 to fit the base of the bulbs, the sockets are just run of the mill to fit the bulbs, run wires to an outlet.
Voila! If I can do it, anybody can. You can get the LED full spectrum at amazon and the other stuff at
Lowes. I hang my home made light set up with chains so I can raise/lower the set ups just by unhooking the
chain and using a different part of the chain. Actually, it's harder to explain than to do it.
 
Dave, All you need: outlets of the normal sort, LED full spectrum bulbs, regular coated
wiring to reach outlet and simple sockets for each bulb. Cut the 1x4s the length to be determined by your
space. I use eight for a 6' bench. Drill holes in the 1 x 4 to fit the base of the bulbs, the sockets are just run of the mill to fit the bulbs, run wires to an outlet.
Voila! If I can do it, anybody can. You can get the LED full spectrum at amazon and the other stuff at
Lowes. I hang my home made light set up with chains so I can raise/lower the set ups just by unhooking the
chain and using a different part of the chain. Actually, it's harder to explain than to do it.
OK Abax, at first I thought you were building your own fixtures with hundreds of soldered little LED bulbs. Now I realize you are plugging in a bunch of regular light bulbs into “pigtails”. Now I see that your method is incredibly easy. However I think I trust fixtures made by orchid growers and pot farmers over bulbs advertised as full spectrum. If you and others can reliably bloom orchids under these bulbs then they are indeed full spectrum, just as advertised and I’ll admit that I’m wrong. When I googled best grow lights the spider farmer and Mars T1000 units were at the top of the lists, not the 11 watt $8 Amazon bulbs. I remain a bit skeptical about these bulbs until nurseries and weed growers approve them. Not that I doubt your experience, but why aren’t these used by nursery professionals?
 
I have grown under LEDs for 13 years, using a handful of different types over the years. Most of my Cattleyas are currently under Spider Farmer SF600 74 watt bulbs. About $110. They are 40 inch long rectangular panels that have full spectrum and produce enough intensity for high light plants at 7-10 inches above the top of the plants. They would cover a width a little less than 2 feet. Lower light plants wound have the lights higher up.
 
Don’t overlook horticulturalleds.com. Their lamps were designed by an orchid grower using a PAR meter and spectrophotometer and are some of the best “bang for the buck” lamps available.
 
Dave, industrial growers need larger lights for larger spaces. I'm not advising you to use the lights you find more
acceptable. I am offering a cheaper, easier way to do it yourself since you wrote that you like to do projects
yourself. I test the bulbs regularly and they're holding up well. I will add that my lights are in a greenhouse and
are used as supplement lighting in winter. I don't use them in the summer.
 
OK Abax, at first I thought you were building your own fixtures with hundreds of soldered little LED bulbs. Now I realize you are plugging in a bunch of regular light bulbs into “pigtails”. Now I see that your method is incredibly easy. However I think I trust fixtures made by orchid growers and pot farmers over bulbs advertised as full spectrum. If you and others can reliably bloom orchids under these bulbs then they are indeed full spectrum, just as advertised and I’ll admit that I’m wrong. When I googled best grow lights the spider farmer and Mars T1000 units were at the top of the lists, not the 11 watt $8 Amazon bulbs. I remain a bit skeptical about these bulbs until nurseries and weed growers approve them. Not that I doubt your experience, but why aren’t these used by nursery professionals?

The cheap led shop lights are good in racks, I use them to grow cactus seedlings so they ought to be plenty of light for any orchids. The ones in the link look like the same thing with the orchid label tax generously applied.

Barrina LED Shop Light 4FT, 40W 5000LM 6500K, Clear Cover Linkable LED Tube Lights, Integrated T8 Light Fixture, V Shape LED Ceiling Lights for Garage, Warehouse, Workshop, 10 Pack https://a.co/d/2Ljybmm

I'm using Spider Farmer SF1000 in my greenhouse and they seem to have made a hug difference in my winter growth and flower counts this year after putting them up last fall.

20230204_122640.jpg
 
Dave, All you need: outlets of the normal sort, LED full spectrum bulbs, regular coated
wiring to reach outlet and simple sockets for each bulb. Cut the 1x4s the length to be determined by your
space. I use eight for a 6' bench. Drill holes in the 1 x 4 to fit the base of the bulbs, the sockets are just run of the mill to fit the bulbs, run wires to an outlet.
Voila! If I can do it, anybody can. You can get the LED full spectrum at amazon and the other stuff at
Lowes. I hang my home made light set up with chains so I can raise/lower the set ups just by unhooking the
chain and using a different part of the chain. Actually, it's harder to explain than to do it.

I have grown under LEDs for 13 years, using a handful of different types over the years. Most of my Cattleyas are currently under Spider Farmer SF600 74 watt bulbs. About $110. They are 40 inch long rectangular panels that have full spectrum and produce enough intensity for high light plants at 7-10 inches above the top of the plants. They would cover a width a little less than 2 feet. Lower light plants wound have the lights higher up.
Terry, I agree with you. I lean toward LEDs that were especially built for flowers rather than grow light bulbs. The spider farmer, botanical LED and Mars all fit this criteria. Once researchers show that LED light bulbs cause orchids to flower just as well, at that point I'm happy to admit I'm wrong and switch over. In the meantime those panels with hundreds of little lights seem to be the best fit.
 
The cheap led shop lights are good in racks, I use them to grow cactus seedlings so they ought to be plenty of light for any orchids. The ones in the link look like the same thing with the orchid label tax generously applied.

Barrina LED Shop Light 4FT, 40W 5000LM 6500K, Clear Cover Linkable LED Tube Lights, Integrated T8 Light Fixture, V Shape LED Ceiling Lights for Garage, Warehouse, Workshop, 10 Pack https://a.co/d/2Ljybmm

I'm using Spider Farmer SF1000 in my greenhouse and they seem to have made a hug difference in my winter growth and flower counts this year after putting them up last fall.

View attachment 38205
Tony, I am clueless regarding the differences between cacti and orchid lighting needs. But the 6500K daylight bulbs that do well for your cactus are lights that I would not take a chance with on orchids. I don't know if they have the red spike that orchids need to flower well. I have a high level of trust in your spider farmer arrays, and from your picture they appear to grow beautifully.
 
Dave, industrial growers need larger lights for larger spaces. I'm not advising you to use the lights you find more
acceptable. I am offering a cheaper, easier way to do it yourself since you wrote that you like to do projects
yourself. I test the bulbs regularly and they're holding up well. I will add that my lights are in a greenhouse and
are used as supplement lighting in winter. I don't use them in the summer.
Abax, I believe all that you say. But the price difference between the dimmable LED arrays and a bunch of 11 watt grow light bulbs looks negligible. Given that the arrays are well reviewed by nurseries and the grow lights don't appear to have many reviews out there, I'll stick cautiously to the Mars/spider farmer/botanicalLED arrays until the new grow light bulbs prove me wrong. Like all technology, the field constantly changes and soon enough newer lights will advance beyond the current state of the art.
 
Thanks for fixing that, Rich. For some reason, I commonly say "horticultural" when it should be "botanical" in the URL, yet when it was "theorchidhobbyist", I had no issues.
 
Back
Top