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Gcroz

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Well, the tally so far, since 2 weeks ago, is 2 Paph. Ho Chi Minh and 4 emersonii seedlings. Aint this a fun one to tackle. :mad:

Anyone hve any suggestions? I'm treating the plants on the bench, and the infection seems to be in check, but I'm very worried as it seems to be going after my best stuff.
 

Hien

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Well, the tally so far, since 2 weeks ago, is 2 Paph. Ho Chi Minh and 4 emersonii seedlings. Aint this a fun one to tackle. :mad:

Anyone hve any suggestions? I'm treating the plants on the bench, and the infection seems to be in check, but I'm very worried as it seems to be going after my best stuff.
What did you do out of ordinary?
Did you just introduce a new purchased plant with infection into the collection? may be quarantine all the infection plants would help stop the spread?
 

Gcroz

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Phyton 27 is what I'm using. Where it arrived from, I have no idea. All plants with signs of it have been removed and destroyed. It seems to pop up about once a week, taking a plant or 2. Primarily younger plants. I'll be repotting and treating every Paph. in the gh one day this week.

Never heard of Dragons Blood.
 

Hien

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You may want to sterilized your potting mix with heat just to be sure before using.
Once, I bought the bark mix, they come with all the molds (I am sure if the mold is there, there must be other dormant nasty stuff that just wait to resurface at the right condition) I end up throwing the mix away
 

NYEric

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Did you let water from another plant drip into the seedlings? Lots o' threads here about DB, for on the plant I think it's good.
 
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goldenrose

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If I have anything suspicious the first thing I grab - Sangre de Grado - Dragon's Blood!!!
 

Candace

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I always seem to lose a few paphs in the winter months to crown rot. I think I probably lost 7 or 8 this year. Usually smallish one growth seedlings that rot and die seemingly over night. One of my fans died and I've not replaced it. So the decrease in airflow wasn't a good thing! Do you usually lose a couple in the winter or is this a much higher mortality rate for you?

I haven't had to use any chemicals, I just refrain from watering later in the day and keep my air flow high. When I don't do this, I get rot.
 

orcoholic

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Try spraying with hydrogen peroxide (from the drug store). Use it full strength.

If you think it's in the mix, get a product called ZeroTol. It's supercharged hydrogen peroxide. It's about $100 for a 2.5 gallon container from Griffen's and you dilute it 100 to 1. Works on everything.
 
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charlie c

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Try spraying with hydrogen peroxide (from the drug store). Use it full strength.

If you think it's in the mix, get a product called ZeroTol. It's supercharged hydrogen peroxide. It's about $100 for a 2.5 gallon container from Griffen's and you dilute it 100 to 1. Works on everything.
Sounds good. Wondering how do you apply it? As a s foliage spray or a drench, or both?

I think I looked at this before and was slowed a little because it was not compatible with certain other chemicals and fertilizer. So I'm wondering how you rotate it into your program? Or do you only use on a "when necessary" basis?

Thanks in advance.

charlie c
 

gonewild

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Dragons Blood will likely stop the infection. It works well and is completely safe to use. You can use it in combination with other treatments if you feel it necessary. It is a mistake not to try it as a simple solution to a bad problem.
We sell it at ShopGoneWild.com
I will be happy to answer any questions you have about it.
 

Kyle

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If you want a more chemical solution. I've had excellent results with Phyton 27 and Daconil. I use daconil on freshly deflasked seedlings.

Kyle
 

NYEric

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I like the natural solution as often as possible or until problems get out of control. Dragon's Blood works well on my Phrags, which I grow in water. If I find a plant w/ a problem I isolate it, remove the affected area if possible, and treat w/ DB.
 

orcoholic

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Sounds good. Wondering how do you apply it? As a s foliage spray or a drench, or both?

I think I looked at this before and was slowed a little because it was not compatible with certain other chemicals and fertilizer. So I'm wondering how you rotate it into your program? Or do you only use on a "when necessary" basis?

I use the peroxide directly on orchids, when necessary, that are effected and on everything around them. I use it as a foliar spray.

The ZeroTol is applied through my dosatron (injector) at a rate of 100:1. I put 8oz in a glass bottle every couple of months and let the dosatron draw it up, mix it and then send it through my overhead watering system. So, this is applied as a drench and a foliar application.

I'm not aware of any environmental problems with either of these and they are effective on bacteria, fungus, and viruses (that haven't already invaded the orchids).

Either of these should be applied alone. When using zerotol, i would strongly recommend using latex gloves. It can burn.
 

Rick

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I'll endorse the Dragons Blood too. Use it straight up right on the infected location, and then make a spray of a drop or two per pint and use as a foliar spray and pot drench.
 

Gcroz

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Ok, bought some Dragons Blood, so I'm giving it a try.

I'm glad you mentioned you usually lose a few in the winter Candace, it makes me feel not so alone. LOL
 
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Elena

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Dragons Blood sounds like some sort of magic potion. I use Phyton 27 if I have to but it scares the beejeesus out of me. I wonder if I can get Dragons Blood in UK? Sounds like it's effective but safe.
 
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cwt

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All good remedies. But since we put up the large g/h we have been doing something totally different. We stepped up the ventilation during the day, so much so that a match can't be lit anywhere in the greenhouse.It is blown out immediately. At night a seperate set of fans are moving the air, the test, cigarette smoke doesnt go up, it is always going up at 45 degrees( a soft movement of air.) Sounds funny, but it works. No more spots, crownrot or brown rot.And no spraying. There is however a downside , we have to water everyday, though the paphs love it.
 

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