Beginner phrag questions

[koshki]

Hi all,

I started growing phrags last September, and so far, they all seem to like it here. I grow indoors, under lights (HO T5s), and have fairly good tap water. I water them frequently, keep a saucer of water under them, and a fan on them at all times. With one exception, they are all in CHC. My north-facing sunroom is fairly cool, topping out at about 65 degrees during the day in winter, about 70 in summer. Humidity challenged.

So, a couple questions...what triggers a spike? I have a few plants that have growths that have surpassed previous growths in size but have not bloomed. The previous growths (before I owned them) show evidence of having spiked in the past. Patience? More light? Fert? Seasonal?

Also, I heard from another phrag grower that they like to have tight feet. I bought a Grande x caudatum in bloom that is a fairly large plant, but in a 4" pot. It tips over a lot, and I think it needs a larger pot. I bought some other plants bare root and the grower said they need to be in 8" pots, which is what I did...but they are about the same size as the plant in the 4" pot. So I'm confused!

Growing indoors, and under lights, I am extremely space challenged. In fact, a whole bunch of under-performing, under-loved or otherwise unwanted plants are going to my OS raffle table at the next meeting to make room for new acquisitions. Could you recommend small growing phrags that are in the pinks and reds color range? I have schlimii, Sedenii, Schroderae (those two are big plants), Cape Sunset, Eric Young, Apple Pie (a nice small plant), Rosy Gem, Cardinale, and a couple NOIDS. But I do have room for a few more, especially after I start my tomatoes and move them outdoors.

TIA

 

[Eric Muehlbauer]

In my experience, phrags hate CHC. I have had great success with a simple bark mixture, heavy on the spongerock, with added chopped NZ sphagnum. While I use orchiata bark now, I have found that the bark type doesn't matter for phrags. In fact, if I only grew phrags I would use the cheapest, crappiest bark around...phrags would love it anyway. While its not a good idea, I've frequently gone 4 years without repotting in my mix. I end up with a stinky dark mass when I repot, but the roots are always good. I have read that its a good idea to "overpot" phrags into large pots, as they will quickly grow into them. I find that's good for the hybrids, but my besseae's do better in the smallest pots that they will fit into.

 

[SlipperFan]

Phrag. caricinum and at least two of it's hybrids: Meditation and Evy Finegan are fairly small.

La Vivace Epicure Phyllis D. Turner is another small one

Look at pearcei and it's hybrids, also

 

[NYEric]

give them time to adapt to your conditions. there are many smaller growing pubescent type phrags, fischeri x schlimii, caricinum x ...

 

[koshki]

Thanks everyone.

Eric M, in what way did your phrags show displeasure with CHC?

Dot and NYEric, thanks for the suggestions!

 

[cnycharles]

if you feel the need to create space and the schlimii needs to go, think of me!

 

[koshki]

Charles, if that ever happens, I will certainly think of you first!

 

[Eric Muehlbauer]

It was a few months....I'm not sure. I only tried CHC on a few phrags. A lot of things do well in their 1st few weeks with CHC, then decline. I find CHC excellent for most epiphytes (except pleuro's and phals), bad in the long run for paphs (except philipinense and its hybrids), and really abd for phals, pleurothallids, and phrags. Again, that is my experience...others may differ. I do soak CHC multiple times, including a calcium nitrate and epsom salts soak, to get rid of any possible salts.

 

[koshki]

I will keep an eye on them and see what happens. Right now it seems to provide a nice balance between wet and air at the roots. I've had bad luck with bark with other orchids, so I am skittish, I guess.

 

[SlipperFan]

One thing (among many others) that I've learned here is that what works for one person is death for another. If you are having success with what you are using, keep at it. But also, keep watch. Roots tell (almost) all.

 

[Clark]

Too bad your limited to pink and red, Mini Grande had lot of pop for the amount of foliage.

Beefsteak or Bigboy?

 

[NYEric]

Too bad your limited to pink and red, Mini Grande had lot of pop for the amount of foliage.

Beefsteak or Bigboy?

Really!?

 

[koshki]

Beefsteak or Bigboy?

Actually, I've been experimenting with heirlooms for the past couple years. Last year I tried out several Russian varieties, a couple of which are on the short list for this year. My growing season here is so short for tomatoes...the Russians seemed to work with that. Because I'm in a wheelchair, I grow in containers which creates its own set of challenges and opportunities. The biggest problems I've had are dealing with powdery mildew and blight. Hopefully some new tricks will help this year!

There is no such thing as too many tomatoes!

 

[Orchidnut57]

Really!?

NYEric...I got it!

 

[koshki]

Dot, I have all my plants in clear pots, so I can keep an eye on at least some of the roots. But I have some bark on hand just in case.

I've got a couple more newbie questions...I understand that with most orchids, to promote flowering, I should push as much light as they can take. How do phrags tell you if it's too much light?

Also, how long should you leave the old, dying fans? I've got a couple that are looking ratty, but I'm not sure when it's safe to remove them. Do they provide support to the new grows? And how much to remove?

 

[Shiva]

Keep the dying fan as long as possible. They may still provide some energy to the growing part.
If your phrags start to turn yellow, it's generally because of too much light.

 

[SlipperFan]

But if the old leaves are turning yellow, you can safely remove them. I think Shiva is talking about newer growths turning yellow, right?

 

[Shiva]

But if the old leaves are turning yellow, you can safely remove them. I think Shiva is talking about newer growths turning yellow, right?

The old leaves turning yellow and dying is normal, unfortunately. I usually cut them down as they die from the tips. Just hate to see a mass of healthy green leaves with a few yellow leaves poking through.
But if the newer mature growths start looking yellow, then it's genereally because of too much light.

 

[NYEric]

Light/pale green may mean too much light. I try not to leave old dying leaves on because they can become disease vectors. I alway check them because usually they are dying because of some problem.

 

[koshki]

Eric, I guess I was under the impression that once a bloom was finished the fan was done, too. I mean, not right away, but that it would slowly wind down.

What kind of problems could they have?