Any ideas as to what this is?

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I have two nutrient solutions that must be made in 100% tap water to reach a pH of 6.3. Another solution needs 15-20% tap water to reach 5.8. Two other solutions must be in 100% RO to reach 6.4 and 6.0. You have to test your solutions. Most city tap water will raise the pH and perhaps add some extra nutrients (Ca, Mg, Si).
Terry I use RO and have used MSU for a few years. The question is urea nitrogen. Should I incorporate it? I’ll email you.
 
If there is an issue with the solutions applied, it's likely not related to the pH per se, but to the acidity or basicity, which can have a long-term effect on rhizosphere pH, not an immediate one.
 
Terry I use RO and have used MSU for a few years. The question is urea nitrogen. Should I incorporate it? I’ll email you.
There isn’t certainty about most of this. I decided to give up and use some of each of the major approaches - a complete hedge. This is unlikely to be the best approach, but I don’t have 20 years left to experiment!
 
Terry I use RO and have used MSU for a few years. The question is urea nitrogen. Should I incorporate it? I’ll email you.
I’ve been using southern ag max acid 30-10-10 which you can get in Amazon 22% urea, 5% ammonia, 2% nitrate so it’s not 100% urea like jack’s. I would think you could try rotating it every once in a while. Though I would recommend mixing fertilizer with some tap water for the buffering effect unless your tap water is super hard.
 
I’ve cut it off and repotted. Will douse with fungicide and bactericide.
This summer I had 3 phrags that broke out with similar brown patches as yours. It was warm and humid, showed up overnight. Realizing it was likely bacterial, the only thing I had on hand was polysporin. ( for human use, a topical ointment) It has bacitracin and gramicidin in it. Stopped the infection cold. Available in drugstores. Worked for me like a charm. Hope you were able to salvage your plants.
 
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